348 Engine repair thread

It seems that the threads of the bolts are damaged when they are forced in without properly aligning the holes. This old thread has some suggestions: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/trick-to-bolt-the-348-subframe-back-in.135633/

 

That's slightly annoying whoever had the engine out last just forced those in by not lining the subframe up properly. This is one part you don't want to be trying to rush.
I always make sure I can screw them in by hand before using any tools.....

But hey, you're getting so close now!!

 

Please take pics of it going back in with the quick jack setup. I'm trying to envision how to get it back in place and all bolts started with basically no clearance to get under there. Floor jacks etc.. makes for not a lot of room to work.

I'm tempted to try this with a 355 since i don't trust my slab to a 2 post and i already have them.

 

****ing awesome (love the engine top light):

 

There is nothing quite like seeing it at this stage, soooooo close!!
There's not much to hook up from this point, 12 bolts on the front bulkhead, 4 bolts on the frame at the back, suspension tower bolts, handbrake cable, brake line, clutch line, ABS sensor plugs, ECU plugs through the bulkhead, battery connections, two water hoses, fuel lines, expansion tank hose, air filter and a few bits and pieces......oil filter, oil, coolant, bleed brakes and clutch.....

Remember on your start up, do not let it idle, keep it up around 1500-1800rpm constantly until you get some heat into it.

You have to do a start up video!!

 

LOL, yes I am using my 348 more than most probably do!! Quite addictive once you get over the initial "should I, or should I try to preserve it" phase...

 

The procedure of running the engine at ~2000 rpm for the first ~20 min. is required when new camshafts are fitted so that they can be properly run-in. I don't think it is necessary with "old" cams. Of course, applying cam lube (or EP90 oil) for the start-up is a good practice.

 

You have had the camshafts out, I was always taught when I was an apprentice mechanic (yes I am a qualified mechanic as much as I hate to admit) to run the engine 1500-1800rpm, even if you have just had the old cams out as nothing reassembles exactly the same as much as we'd like to think it does. I know you used assembly lube, so that helps, but your engine has been dry for a while now so its good to get a bit of heat into it with full oil pressure.
It doesn't need to be 20 mins, that's only if the cams are new.
All you need to do is get some temp into it, watch the oil temp gauge and as soon as that starts showing a little bit of temp you're good, should only take 5-10mins or so.....
I am not here to win a pissing contest, but I have built and rebuilt a lot of high hp engines and have never had one expire on me yet through normal use.
Of course its up to you.

 

Well that confirms my fears on the return trip with the quick jacks. At least you're back on track with the jack stands/ floor jack combo.. soo close.

 

I did my return trip with 3 floor jacks so I could control left right tilt and front to back tilt.

sjd

 

Ahhh heck sounds like a lot of fighting the universe... probably better to go back to a 2 post with dolly or a midrise scissor. There's a guy on Instagram that has a really trick dolly. Its threaded bolts on each corner so you can make fine adjustments to the alignment angle almost like a boat engine mount to align with a prop shaft.

 

Yep that how we do them here with 2 jacks, sometimes we remove the front bumper to get more of an angle

Still have not tried out my lift but its good with a 4x8 plywood on it as a make shift bar LOL

 

Here is that trick dolly. Full credit of photo to restored by Elliot Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Thanks the dolly was made by my friend and it works a treat, so easy to adjust the alignment. I just need to upgrade the wheels something more substantial and it’s perfect.
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