348 Engine repair thread

Back on it after cold weather and I got sick plus visitors etc. I ordered new shock tower studs, they were superceded a few times. Well they are too short. So I ordered new ones from bell metric and I'll have to pull those that are in there now and replace them. Few small things to do still, then double check it all. Hope it's warm tomorrow.

Also going to make battery cables and eliminate the bullets and stick a in fuse as well. First things first, get it running.

All new coil springs so I'll gave to reset ride height and have it aligned and ac charged.

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Everything hooked up and fluids added. I actually had a dream I took it out and forgot to put oil in it.
All I have to do is bleed the system but I want to put matching SS lines in front first. The revivor is full, I capped all the lines when I pulled the motor so loss was minimal, few cc's tops.

Obviously I can't push the clutch but no need to spool it up and check for leaks for 10 min on stands.

Any reason I can't start it tomorrow without bleeding the hydraulics first?

 

Well in case there is an issue with the heads I prefer not to waste the effort and waste the fluid pulli g it again incase there is an issue. If not then I can shut it down after it gets to temp, put the bumper on and bleed etc. Just trying to optimize and hedge.

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Pulled relays and turned it over to built oil pressure. Popped them back in and it fired. Had some stumble and hunt till it stabilized.

But, fans never came on. So I killed it just after the temp mark they should have come on. Over flow tank with the cap off just started to boil at that point. Coolant never drained down from the tank almost like thermostat never opened but its essentially new, about 2 years old and was fine, but that would explain no fans as I believe the fan temp comes from the radiator water sensors. Radiators were cold.

Ugh thermostat swap is a major pain.

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Water was not swirling in the tank, top water pump hose was cold, the lower one was hot, so stuck closed?

 

Hmmm, Should the bleeders be cracked?

 

Ohh yes my thermostat has a bleed hole, drilled it myself. And thanks Steve! Turns out it was air bubble so fans come on, temps drop, all is good so far. Idles like a sewing machine. No bobble gurgle, hunt or surge just even like a sewing machine. Will have to balance intakes, when I did the motor I cleaned out the TB by pass screws, they were coated thin layer with gunk, now they are clean and polished so prior settings are invalid. Ohh no check engine lights either.

So far so good, will bleed system, put bumper on, button up panels and fender liners. Then I have to swap the front brake lines to SS to match the rear and new front coil springs to match the new rears. I went from red to yellow markings. Had to search the globe for those in yellow with the correct part number per the TSB.

 

That's exactly what I did the second time and it worked, heat set to max to pull coolant into heater core yep, that little bosch pump up there, I replaced that too. Forgot the bleed screws first time. I aint goona, lie I was so nervous firing it up, I actually forgot to put the ecu's in Then forgot the coolant bleed screws as I was certain it was going to grenade on me I overlooked those, done it several times changing fluid, swapping heater pump etc so I know better..

I was totally shi**ing bricks firing it up. Damage was about $8K, this would have been a $15K job at a shop, not to mention all the things I addressed that they would not have.

• Heads rebuilt, valves and all the gaskets and parts needed - $6.5 K
• Tools, incidentals, etc- 1K

Thanks to everyone who helped. Miroljub, Kevin, Brian, Steve, John etc etc. Lot's of you helped and pointed to things I forgot or overlooked or needed to double check.
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Now lets see if it holds together past 100 miles Probably wont get a chance to take it put till spring with the other things still pending on my list to do.

 

ugh don't remind me. I stress about them daily.

 

Have a horrible stumble when cold, once warm and fans come on its good as its in closed loop. Probably open loop issue as it runs from fuel tables when cold and with lack of air it's flooding which it sounds like.

I checked the butterflies and they are closed. The manual outlines a procedure for geometrical balance, there shoud be a .02=.05 gap and then resetting the tps sensors. Waiting for some Jr power timer plugs to make an intercept harness so I can measure voltage.

Thanks to m.stajanovic for the idea of the test plug then I'll reset the when system and balance the intakes with the bypass screws.

Also alternator squeaks when cold, not sure if it's too tight ot too loose. Could be belt or bearing, that should be easy once I get it back up on the left. Man it's cold here so prob won't get back on the road till spring anyhow, snow and salt real soon I suspect.

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Just not that many vacum lines. all seems fine I checked them. But it could be.

I'll reset the intakes and go from there. They are not totally closed but definitely off and different. The iac are brand new as is the fpr, pumps, plugs, coils, ignition unit, crank sensors, cam phase sensor, injectors cleaned, new maps, solenoids etc. All new.

Manual days when the inake plenum or tb's are removed you need to reset balance the intakes. So I'll start there. Every thing was apart for cleaning.
Vamum is in the red can't get it into green as it is.

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Green starts at 18 its below that. Below normal range. Not sure if it's too much or too little vacum. I think k too much.

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1000 rpm or so. Don't recall exactly but looking through the rear windown about 1000.

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Right when cat temps hit 300 f or so the secondaries stop and its in closed loop.

Car runs rough way beyond that, possibly waiting for ecu to learn.

I'll balance then yank air box and check hoses again.

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