348 Engine repair thread

Horrible welding for a 90k car it should look more like the tigged one I posted above. Absolutely crappy job, it's not even refutable.

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I'll be using OEM valves, some aftermarket ones have thicker seats and stems restricting flow. The OEM ones are waifish. Once you go bigger valves then you have other issues like injectors and fuel pump flow and intake restrictions and possible AF issues etc.

 

I agree, not opposed to modding but at this point getting it running in the goal is all.

Daniel let me borrow the jig, decided to drill it before rebuild since they are coming apart and getting cleaned. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Show the damage, show the damage, bunch of animals.
Kind of hard to see they are not overly bent likely the seats and guides are fine, the pistons are not gouged either, more kissed.

 

Am I supposed to scotchbrite the old gaskets off before putting the new ones on? Seems the extra gasket material would help seating.

 

I'm so f'in pissed on that pulley job btw. The upside is new valves will seat 100% there is some carbon build up on some exhausts valves likely from putting around.

Heading to Olsen Machine tomorrow bright and early, picking up mr308gtb on the way he lives 20 min from Olsen.

 

I noticed if you do not compress the tensioner enough and you pry the belt off the tensioner it presses hard against the fence since there is not enough clearance and that can loosen the fences over time it I suppose. In my case I compressed it enough with 2 hands while another set of hands tightened it back down the belt simply slid off with no pressure against the the fence. Another option is to remove one intake cam gear and the belt falls off as well.

Actually yes John, I never though of that... it probably went under the drive pulley itself then spit out, I was trying to imagine how it got under the other pulleys. With timing marks lined up with piston 1 the other bank cam marks were off, about 10 o'clock instead of 12 o'clock. Main drive pulley would do that. Thanks.

So main timing pulley is now a major or every other major item for me. Found a brand new one for $415 on the shelf at a parts vendor whom I called on a lark. Got a cart full on Ricambi's site for parts needed for re-assembly. First things first though, get them rebuilt. Then winter hits so not in a hurry now. Damn OEM valves are spendy.

 

Yeah that's sage advice very few things are as accurate as an eyeball and a hammer

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Olsen Engines not Olsen Machine I meant.

 

New pulley arrived and the fence went from 20 gauge to 16 gauge at the thinnest outside point, roughly twice as thick and at the base where it meets the pulley it's even thicker. Just replace the 30 year old pulley people.
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Water manifold crossover has an aluminum fitting that goes to the expansion tank. They get pretty corroded and nasty. Stick the back end of a drill bit in clamp it like a mofo with a set of vice grips and crank it off.

Hill engineering makes the stainless steel replacement although I suppose you can get a brass one from plumbing supply.


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Cleaning head gaskets by hand with some light scotch-brite and some brake cleaner, what a b*itch. Hands cramp up after about 10 minutes.

Add a couple spacers to the crank pulley snout so you can turn the engine without bottoming out the crank pully bolt.


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Most of the scrubbing after the thick stuff comes off with a plastic non-metallic scraper,, is with a blue non-scratch pad and light oil.
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Attached the same as before it's just a much thicker fence. Same design.




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Plenty of non-metallic scrapers too.
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What is the liner protrusion issue? The protrusion crusheds the metal part of the gasket between the block and heads, 355 heads and 348 heads get done all the time. There is a Ferrari torque sequence and special tool, what am I missing?