F1 light blinking on dash?

I had this problem occur once and it was the speed sensor. Cost about $130 for the part from Ricambi. The whole F1 system is an integrated system so if one thing isn't reading correctly the whole thing can get fussy.

I too had the blinking F1 light with no error codes. The dealer diagnosed it as an intermittant clutch sensor going bad since there were no drivability or shifting issues. Their recommendation was to just change it at the next major.

 

I just replaced the battery yesterday. I figured that it was almost 4 years old, and didn't want any possible issues stemming from a weak battery. Of course I was hoping that the transmission light issue was related to the battery since I never had any shifting issue when the error light it up.
Well, unfortunately, after taking it for a ride today It came on again! Darn it.
I was about 10 miles into my ride, then it beeped 4X and the transmission light came on steady. It then went out all by itself 3-4 miles later. I don't know if it's a time or mileage issue that clears the light. The strange part is that it never had any issues changing gears, even when the light was lit.
I guess It's time to take it in and hope that the issue shows on a SD-2/3.

 

Yes, take it in don't delay. Especially if you think it's happening more and more often it's a matter of time before it leaves you stranded and you know what that means...

$$$ and inconvenience.

Keep us posted.

 

I will definitely keep you guys posted with the results. I have an appointment to take it in to Bradan next week. I hope the fault shows up on the SD2 and that it's cheap.

 

I have some new info on my situation.
I think I may have hit the jackpot! (possibly)
Today I went for a ride and I was about 1 mile into the drive and all of a sudden I got the Transmission light on (steady) and at the exact same time, the check engine light came on! I was not happy, but at the same time I thought to myself “good, now I can see if I can get a pattern”.
Well I shot home and put the reader on it and came up with code P1569, it has to do with the brake light switch. I had a “pending” P1569 code about a week ago when the transmission light came on, and I cleared it. Lately the transmission light is coming on every time I drive it, it seems to be getting worse and worse. I’m actually at the point where I’m afraid of getting stuck.
I know some guys have also had the transmission light come on when they had a bad brake light switch (the weird part is that they have trouble getting it into gear, that never happened to me though). I checked the brake lights and they worked, I’m not sure if that switch sends multiple signals (one for the lights, another for the transmission) or if maybe it’s a flakey switch that momentarily goes bad?
Could I be this lucky that all my issues are from a $40 five minute repair? I NEVER get this lucky!
Maybe since it’s so cheap, I should replace the switch, then drive the s..t out of it and see if it happens again. What do you guys think? could I have gotten this lucky?

 

Hope you do get lucky with the brake switch. Try either changing that now or getting the transmission ECU/TCU scanned for codes as well to see if anything pops up. I wish upon you no selection/potentiometer codes when you scan the TCU...that was my problem and I don't think I had a P1569 from the main ECU but symptoms were quite similar until I got stuck.

 

I should add one more thing to my previous post...my understanding was that if a brake switch error is issued while the car is in motion then either the car should get stuck in a gear or drop to neutral. The brake switch along with the other sensors on the car (door open?, engine lid open) act as inputs to the TCU to allow it to go in different states of engagement.

So it's interesting that your car works normally with a brake switch code issued and a CEL on.

 

Yes, that's why I'm so confused as well. I'm surprised that I NEVER had any shifting issues. Now that it's happening so often, I'm starting to be afraid that I will get stuck if it's not fixed. I think my plan as of now is to gamble on the switch. I'll use it and assume that it's fixed. If I get a code, I will bring it in ASAP. If I don't get a code, I'll have the shop do a scan next time it's in for something, just to be sure.

 

I changed the brake light switch today and cleared the C/E light. I then drove it for approx. 15-20 miles. No transmission, or C/E light yet!

I obviously didn't drive it enough to be 100% sure that it's fixed, but it looks good so far. Lately, I couldn't get a good drive in without the transmission light illuminating after a few miles, then staying on for a few minutes/miles afterwards.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for now. I will write back after I put a few hundred uneventful miles on it. I will also take it in to get checked on an SD2, just to make sure that there are no other faults.

 

Hi All. While researching my current problem I found this old thread, and I'm wondering whether the brake light switch fixed the issue?

My car is intermittently dropping out of gear and causing me to have to coast to the side of the road, shut everything down and start again. It happened several times in the space of 10 minutes yesterday, and then it went for nearly 40 minutes without doing it again.

Basically I'll be driving along (usually in 3rd or 4th) and then when I go to slow down the gear display starts flashing and the car goes into neutral. However, the display keeps flashing whatever gear I was in at the time. Nothing I do with the paddles makes any difference.
However, when I shut down, wait a minute then restart it is fine - at least until the next time it does it.

My mechanic has been struggling to find what is causing the issue, so any help would be most appreciated.

 

Have you considered looking at the pressure switch that signals the F1 pump to cut in. The F1 pressure is controlled in a range by a cut in and cut out pressure switches. Reading the OP the flashing light comes on and you have your problems. Assuming that the F1 flashing light is a low pressure alarm, seperate from the cut in switch this reads a pressure lower than the pump cut in pressure so it makes sence to look at the cut in pressure switch.
The gearbox changes will run the F1 pressure down until the cut in switch starts the pump, but if the switch does not cut it in , then the pressure continues to drop until the system senses the alarm pressure and the light flashes.
These modern switches are generally a sealed factory set unit and can get worn or have bad contacts internally.
They may work at times but not 100% reliable- other thing might be the working of the relay that controls the F1 pump. Pressure switches mounted on the gearbox/ engine also pick up the general vibration

 

Excellent info, thanks Mike. I'll pass that on to my mechanic.

 

I cant say that is specific to the 430 but it is generally how the hydraulics used to work when i was a ships engineer. I think your pump cut in, is not working at times and hence the f1 light as a low pressure alarm.
You could check the cut in switch 10 times with no problem and think it is ok, but u r going to have to change something before it packs up on you, i would think the cut in switch and relay would be the 1st option. I assume the cut in pressure switch and the F1 flashing light switch might look the same so be sure you get the right one.
When the f1 pump cuts out at the higher pressure it has charged the accumulator so you have a reserve of pressure , the gearbox uses this reserve until it goes down to the cut in pressure and the pump should cut in, if it does not , the pressure continues to go down to the f1 alarm value and the light flashes.
Might be going to cootamundra next march so will be around for my stubby.

 

Excellent. Thanks Mike. It sounds like it might be the pump (I've already talked to my mechanic about replacing it with a 360 pump). The other possibility is the clutch. As far as I'm aware it's original and has now done 28,000 miles and 18 years.

If it turns out you were right you're welcome to travel another 1000 miles from Cootamundra to Adelaide and I'll buy you a beer!

 

Just a short journey in aussy, i looked on the eurospares web site and could only find 1 pressure switch- i was expecting a minimum of 2.
Do you have a copy of the workshop manual on CD- you can get them on e bay from a supplier in ITALY - shows how to get the gearbox and clutch out- for 17 euro u can go wrong, loads of car info.

I think u can get a pump rebuild kit- ask on ferrari chat as sure i recall seeing something.
Might be idea to rig amp meter in the positive line to see how much load pump is taking- as problem clears the pump must be making the pressure- rig a 12 volt light to the pump supply and run inside the car, run it and watch to see pump cut in/out and what is going on when you get flashing light. I am more towards the pump not starting than the pump itself.

 

I would put the scanner on it check the pressure of the F1 pump your looking for 45 to 60 bars maybe the pump overheating then cools then works again or maybe needs bleeding with scanner the F1 system could be air in the system if you change the F1 fluid , maybe a bad F1 relay breaking down and overheating when cools then relay reset and works again, could be many things like that

 

This is the pertinent part - the flashing gear display indicates a gear selection/engagement issue.

 

That is not going to help as that is the power steering tank with the stepped dipstick located between the heads
The F1 tank is behind the panel on the right hand side in front of the rear lamps, to check the level of the F1 tank you need to be sure the system is pressurised (open drivers door) and the check the level of fluid above the disc in the base of the tank, i use the end of a 2 metre tape- you need 18 mm of fluid on the tape.

 

It seems like it is the e-diff solenoid. Did he check that?

 

correct me if im wrong but I thought the car was still completely drivable if the ediff solenoid fails

 

No it will cause the pump to heat up and shut down. I wanted to just replace the pump and my mechanic stopped me to investigate. (Ferrari would have just replaced the pump). The solenoid backed up the fluid back to the pump which heated up and caused, no upshift, "slow down " amber and then the blinking F1 light.

I believe the dealers just replace pumps and because people don't drive them much the issue is never gone and then months later the dealer says it's something else... the saga continues...

 

Yes on the F430 is still drivable if Ediff fails you,ll lose all your traction control and mode selector but still drivable but not for long the F1 pump will work harder and differental may over heat

 

Just to clarify, my car is a 355F1. Would my car have an e-diff solenoid?

(When I was researching this problem and found this thread I didn't realise it was in the 360/430 section, but the replies and suggestions are very helpful, regardless)

 

No your 355 or even a 360 doesn,t have a Ediff Solenoid like a F430

 

No e gear in 355 or 360