F1 overhaul thread; clutch, pump, throwout, flywheel, 360 pump etc.

Way ahead of you.
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One thing I am doing differently, instead of using the Ferrari 360 union with the filter for the input to the pump I am using an unfiltered one and installing an inline filter upstream near the tank. The Ferrari one is a joke, it has a crappy plastic screen like you use in a paint gun, the inline one has metal screens and can be inspected and cleaned without needing to purge the system.

 

While I lowered the lift to work on the plumbing I took a few min to install the Gothspeed igntion loom, I think the idea has merit.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/425737-355-misfire-when-engine-hot-ignition-wire-reroute-shows-some-relief.html

 

They had to remove almost nothing, flywheel was balanced. I was not having any vibration problem, I just made the bracket stiff so that the pump would not vibrate, I would hate to see that hardline work loose. I know nobody has reported that problem in a 360 pump swap, and I am looking to keep it that way.

 

I have found a few differences between the parts drawing and my car. Ferrari F355 M5.2 (1996+) Parts : Table 23 - CLUTCH

The drawing shows a spacer, number 57, that was not on my car, the grub screw was. Did they skip this on some cars? Mine is a 99 so maybe they ran out and decied to skip it?

Second difference is the drawing shows an Oring, number 23 on the drawing that was not in the assembly when I tore it down and I see no place for it to go. Anyone know?

The drawing is very suspect as it does not show the rear bearing on the back of the flywheel nor does it show the circlip that holds the front bearing in place so it isn't like the parts diagram is proven correct, just wondering if others know anything about the two parts I mentioned.

 

MD, got the bearings in the mail, thanks! And I found the O ring as soon as you mentioned that, thanks again. Confirmed I had no spacer, I suppose the dealer that did the clutch last (same one that likely didn't replace any seals) left out that spacer. I could see that my screw was adjusted WAY deeper than others. I just turned one on the lathe an popped it in place. Problem solved.

 

That may have exlained why the big nut had as much red locktight as the flywheel has kluber, probably someone screwed up and didn't want to bother. It is right now.

 

After getting the last few seals and getting my clutch disk back from Friction Materials I have almost put everything back together. I should have it wrapped up next week. Then it will be time to see how well TR512's F1 bleed procedure http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/142199162-post49.html works with the PIS reset and self learn. If it works and the car is drivable then it is off to the shop for a proper F1 calibration, if it doesn't then time to call the flatbed to head to the shop for a proper F1 calibration. So now every part in my system is new or properly overhauled.

A few observations;

Using a socket to center the clutch disk worked well, I tightened the pressure plate bolts super lightly so the disk could still be moved with a good shove and temporarily installed the clutch/flywheel on the input shaft to get a perfect alignment then pulled it off and tightened the bolts to spec.

I had wanted to use an straight through fitting and a nice inline filter that could be cleaned without letting air into the system but all of the M12 to AN10 (5/8 hose) fittings were either too tall or had to large of a base to fit next to the high pressure outlet on the 360 pump instead of a nice AN fitting and serviceable filter I capitulated and used Ferrari's $300 hose adapter with a cheap paintgun filter stuck in it because it fits the space available.

After looking at all the triple seal methods I went with; wrapping plastic around the splines, soaking the seals in hot water and pre-stretching them over a socket extension and sliding them into place. I also pre-heated the whole area and extension with a heat gun so that the seal stayed warm during install and it seemed to work well, the seals slipped right into place and since they stayed warm they conformed back into the groove nicely as you pushed the shaft back in.

If you have a Capristo 3 exhaust there is a slight problem in that the thermocouple bung leans away from the side the ECU is on and the wire is *almost* long enough to reach but it ends up being a stretch so I had one made up that was six inches longer, now it is a breeze.

All back together with fresh parts!
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Got everything buttoned up today, and did the bleeding by cycling the upshift paddle and after about two steps through the gears it was squirting clean clear fluid without any air out of the bleed screw and manual selection worked great going through the gears. The other task for today was to run through the PIS/IO/Octopus self learn steps. The PIS and IO steps are very straightforward.

PIS: Start the engine 10 seconds, turn off the car until display goes dark and repeat 4 times.

IO: Start the engine, idle 5 min, select 1st gear and idle 5 min then turn off.

The Octopus self learn is a bit more of a sequence and for some reason it does not seem to trigger. I am probably not interpreting something correctly so if you have done this before please comment.

Sequence is: handbrake off, key in position II, wait for the warning light check and put it in neutral. (did all that and had trunk, hood and doors closed).

Then in 4 seconds do the following:

1. Press the automatic function push button
2. Fully depress the throttle with the right foot
3. Push the brake with left foot 3 times and hold on the last pump
-tranny should start stepping through the gears, the only problem is that it doesn't? I tried a few variations, press and hold the auto button, press and hold throttle, etc. after trying the steps as they seem to read; press and release auto, press and release throttle, and press the brakes 3 times holding on the last pump. Any trick to this?

 

Got it up on the lift doing the fluids now but when I pull it back down I will try that and see, no F1 tranny caution light is on, but as you said its worth a try. I am also going to replace my tranny shift seal and the rubber boot over the linkage.

 

Two dozen attempts and nothing.... It snaps right through them when I hold the brake pedal in and tap up and down, seemingly better than it ever did before, but trying this sequence just doesn't seem to make the self learn invoke. I am taking it in for a SD calibration but I wanted to try this just to try it first off, and to make sure it was as accurate as it could be to drive it to the shop. I don't mind having it hauled mind you, but I really want to see how well these self calibrations compare to the SD calibration.

 

After confirming my passenger side header was leaking I got a set of Fabspeed's headers on order and went ahead and pulled my OEM ones. While everything is nice and exposed I am doing a thorough deep clean of the area hidden by the headers. It was also a great time to finish up the last bit of F1 system work, replacing the shift shaft seal and boot. My boot had been torn when it got near the frame and was brittle from age and heat, the seal didn't look too bad but no reason not to replace it.

The seal came from Ricambi right away and with some other parts and I found a great source for the boot. I thought it looked awfully familiar and a few measurements proved that an ordinary 35mm front fork book for a dirtbike was exactly the right size. These are also slightly thicker and you can get them in all sorts of different colors and compounds.

Replacing the seal was easy with the right tool, I have a camshaft seal puller that I reground one of the tips for smaller shafts and it popped the seal right out. The big worry was keeping the actuator positioned relative to the tranny. I made a few marks with the permanent marker and a straight edge and for backup I used some laser alignment tools that I use for setting wing alignment on airplanes and painted a cross hatch before removing the actuator. After the seal and boot were finished the actuator went right back in place and no change in alignment should have taken place.

Next up is install the headers, shields, and header blankets. Then walk through the F1 calibrations again and take it to the shop for an SD calibration.
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