F40 LM Restoration

will you put foam inside?

 

I see you have matched the Kevlar weave to that of the inner bumpers, great detail indeed. personally, I would not object if you chose to bolt them to the outter roof. Great thread also!

 

Traveller congratulations on your construction of the ultimate Ferrari to me!
The race spec F40's have always had me drooling over their basically being the road car improved in every department.
What wheels and tires will be in your final specification?
GV27TIFOSI

 

What a gorgeous restoration. Do you know the specs on the current KKK turbos? I assume these are T3 turbos, but don't know the A/R of the units. Garrett and Precision are two of the top manufacturers of newer turbos, and there have been major improvements in technology since those KKK's were built. Ceramic bearings, billet wheels, mutiple scrolls, wastegate designs....

Turbos are an amateur hobby of mine, though mostly on German cars. Considering the displacement of the V-8, I'd hazard a guess that a pair of Garrett GT28's or GTX30's would provide all the power you might need- early spool of the turbos with great power at even moderate boost levels. I'd steer clear of the GT35's, as boost tends to hit very very suddenly, and can be a handful on the track (though UGR uses GT35's on their twin turbo Gallardos to deliver 1,500+ HP reliably on daily driven street cars).

If you decide to reconfigure the manifolds for a single turbo, you could build a twin scroll manifold and run a larger frame T4 turbo. Twin scrolls give you early spooling, and the larger turbo gives a more linear power delivery with LOTS of power if you turn up the boost. That manifold would take some creativity and careful packaging/routing of pipes.

Long time lurker here, but the details and quality of this have brought me out of my cave. Sorry for the long winded comments. Once I get going on turbos, I can't seem to stop.

 

Why no std flywheel?

 

Reciprocating mass and weight I believe.

 

There was substantial weight removed compared to the stock flywheel it seems but I have seen some flywheels that have alot more material removed making them so lightweight they would be virtually unstreetable and require high rpm's and alot of slippage. It seems there has been a nice compromise made seeing as how the car is still "street legal".

I like the 3-puck clutch plate, what material are the contact/engagement pads made of? On my old Lexus SC300, that had a 2JZGTE engine swap and T78 turbo, it had an RPS 3-puck (not sure of the flywheel) but it was very streetable after a short learning curve. Its nice to have the best of both worlds.

 

Tim I think the advantages of a 3-puck over 2-puck would be driveability and will have a less aggresive engagement making it better for road use but still duarable for track use. The pad compound is also something you should consider and lets not forget that your clutch disc is unsprung which gives you more direct engagement but also leads to more stalls until one gets a feel for the clutch but after that "learning period" you will love it! The 2-puck also carry's less weight but imho the difference is a non-issue.

I was weeks away from spending $4K on a TILTON Carbon/Carbon 4-disc clutch for my MR2T simply because you can slip the hell out of it and then replace the carbon disc but lost my job one week prior to making that commitment.

The preverbial can of worms has been opened, right? lol

 

Some of the US (and Euro) turbo builders will swear that flywheel mass maintains inertia during upshifts, so that boost doesn't drop off so quickly. Especially with a large single turbo. It might be worth asking your shop whether or not this theory is sound, before you decide the weight of the flywheel. Pros and cons, as usual- less turbo lag with a heavier flywheel, but slower downshifts as rev matching takes longer.

 

As long as the shop knows you specific wants/needs and desires I'm sure they will get you setup. Being VERY clear and specific about those three things is key. In my mind regarding the clutch I would not be worried about originality but longevity. I spoke with a tech at Tilton and told him I would forward you his contact info.


Jason Wahl

tel: 805.688.2353 x192

fax:805.688.2745

[email protected]

 

Jason went thru his records and found that they had built a clutch (and possibly a flywheel) for an F40 back in about 2001 but could not pull up any renditions or info. AP may be the way to go but only if they have both parts on the shelf ie not requiring a full custom job but that may be something you cannot get around.

Jason at Tilton informed me that the tooling etc etc for the flywheel would be around $2K, CNC'ing etc etc, so on that note it would be a full custom job YET then they could adapt an existing clutch, lighter and more durable, too the flywheel and adjust all aspects, mainly balance and engagement. He did mention though that the flywheel had crank sensors and I am not sure if the stock/upgraded F40 system was setup like that? The Motec ECU you are planning to use certainly has the option of utilizing those sensors which imho are more telling and true.

 

I've been told it's not uncommon to resurface the clutch plates with new friction material, like carbon. Maybe that's an option?

 

Personaly I would not consider that approach an option on any car and especially not on an F40, jmho.

 

Wait. Am I reading this right? You called Tilton specifically to ask about what they could provide for Tim's car?

 

I believe an engineer in Australia makes these......I cannot think of his name but I know he's made several sets of Boxer, F40, 308/328 and the like gear sets. Bill at GT car parts in AZ has the lead on them.

 

Yes sir I did .

Tim is a good guy and me being an F40 "nut case" I want to help him out in any way I can.

Karma!

Orrrrr did I read that wrong and your asking "WTF, why would you be doing such a thing regarding someone else's car"!?!?