Hi Y'all, I have a dismantled 1978 Ferrari 308 2v per cylinder carburetted engine which I'm attempting to build. I would like some advice as to what small modifications (which can be retracted) that can give a nice hp and reliability gain, of course without braking the bank. I have 2 other Italian cars, which I have modded (nearly to race spec) one of which is currently in the process. It's an Alfa Nord engine. On that car I am not too concerned since complete engines are fairly cheap, however a Ferrari V8 is certainly not. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Cheapest horsepower during a rebuild is to go to 10 or 11:1 compression. They respond well to it and you need pistons anyway.
Any particular brand you recommend? A set I found are: https://www.gazzellaracing.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=20964
Anything else which is recommended such as a particular regrind on the cams? P.S. The engine is out of a US spec car
Second the recommendation with J & E pistons. Here is a picture of mine with 10.5:1 compression. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm a noob and still quite reading alot about the engines in these cars, however I was under the impression the ECUs where only used in Fuel Injected cars. Is this not the case? I thought carburatted cars use 2 distributors. At least thats what my photos show.
Oh wow, I did a rigorous search for their name along the keyword "Ferrari" and nothing came up prior to me posting their link. Now I am just browsing in other car communities and I'm blown away as to what others have stated Gazzella are doing. I'll certainly be staying away from them
I read about those on another thread. I believe according to a post by @Ferraripilot The early GT4s through '77 had the same cams as Euro spec cars and 76-77 US GTBs which is as follows: intake: 235 dur @ .050 with .352 lift exhaust: 225 dur @ .050 with .329 lift The US '78-'79 cars (GT4s and GTS/GTB) were subject to the following due to emissions: intake: 217 dur @ .050 with .305 lift exhaust 212 du @ .050 with .300 lift I was wondering if they would be the best approach or if some aftermarket alternative would be better. Furthermore if they have any particular code for me to try and find to buy them
The 1978 cams will need to be reground to the "1975 thru 1977" higher lift profile, with maybe a few modern ramp advancements. The original 8:1 pistons stopped well below the engine block deck, so the modern ones will fit "beter" The oil Burners of 1980 to 81 used up every Ferrari 308 piston in the world, so here we are!!
For 1975 thru 1977, 308GT4 engines and 308GTBs were exactly the same, save for market variances on specs. He has said he has a 1978 twin distribitor car, so I'm assuming North American spec, but the 1978 versions fitted Catalytic convertors so they backed WAY off on the cam ramps and lift.
Damn, it's a West Coast vendor.......someone will post it up. Anyway your four cam sticks can definately be modified. Avoid the Legendary "P6 LeMans specs" as it gives you an undrivable peaky motor, for street use! For me, I 'd order replica 1977 NON CAT stickers for the door jamb and engine compartment and hang an ANSA. Of course that's illegal advice if you are in Cali!!!
Yes it is American spec. I will be removing the cat and all the other nonsense since where I'm located they are not necessary. I intend to rebuild the engine to EU spec with some new and improved technology, such as high comp pistons etc
They are so old now, "No ONe cares" except for cali..LOL Mine actually passed Smog here before going exempt, but you heated the engine and exhaust full temp and left it running until they sniffed it for unburned HCs
There's actually a 12V electric retrofit of the o2 injection nozzles. You need to examine the nozzles in the head as many of them have totally melted or colapsed The Chevy Air pumps off the cam are just a "bad idea"...IMO Welcome BTW! I 've had three, earlier than yours.. 20405 22127 22641
There is a boatload of advice being handed out around here by people who have never so much as taken off a valve cover. There is already a lot of bad advice in this short thread. Be very careful who you listen to. Ferrarichat is loaded with clueless keyboard warriors and self appointed experts. Good luck.
I am not sure of the early part number stampings on early cams as I've seen them marked a couple different ways, yet they're all early cams. Frustrating as it almost makes the only way of identifying them is having them in your hands. If all you want to do is swap to early spec cams, you could have your emissions spec cams reground to a different lobe profile that's close or even a bit better than the early spec cams as these heads can take a bit more lift. Max lift before you start running into valve guide issues is about .420 but I wouldn't push beyond .390 or so with stock springs. Lots of great cam grinders around. These cams don't have much of a base circle meaning it will have to be back cut a tiny bit and you make up the difference with valve shims that are usually .030-.040 thicker, which are available. Bullet cams post their cams master list and have all manner of profiles that would work well. Cat Cams in Belgium make great cams and can do an early stock Euro profile, or their sport profile but you need to increase compression for those. A bit pricey The cams I am often curious why Ferrari never used them in 308s is the Dino/Daytona profile. That's a fabulous cam with 252 duration @ .050 and about .370 lift if I remember right. It's made for adding compression too, works great.
