A new ignition switch costs 1'500CAD and a new Fiat switch costs 100CAD. The Fiat switch is made by TRW Sipea and though it has the same connectors on the back end, the white rotating disk has a different stamping (3611 for 348 and 2230 for the Fiat). It seems that the white wheel clicks down switches in different intervals, otherwise they both seem identical. Does anyone have any interchange experience? Should I just swap over the white disk to be sure and save 1'400CAD? The idea is to install the proper starter relay at the same time to relieve load on the switch. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What part of your lock is broken, Luigi? Is it just the tumbler/key part that is broken on your old ignition switch or is it part of the white disk assembly? It looks like the white disk determines which (multiple) wires are connected as the key turns. The 348 wiring diagrams don't show wire colours going to the white disk assembly. On the old lock, can you figure out which wires are hooked up to which pins on the main (7?) pin plug with the key in OFF? e.g. LOCK wire = main plug wire (car side): red (?) = pin number or wire colour? white = pin number or wire colour? blue-black = pin number or wire colour? blue = pin number or wire colour? On the car side of the main plug, there will be pins with the following colour wires: Red (large) Red (large), Yellow-red. Yellow-black, yellow. 2 blue wires. 2 White Black (lock light) Brown (lock light)
Good points Ian, thanks. I hope I'll find time this weekend to tinker with this stuff. Right now all switches are scattered at different locations lol. I also got my hands on another aftermarket switch which was intended for Fiat. This one was $50. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great find... Do you have the original link? Unfortunately, it looks like you have to drill the tops off those brass coloured posts to get to the internals of the white disk assembly. It looks like part of the plastic has been cracked. Could glue have also been used? Looks easily fixable if you can transfer parts between the old lock and the new one and find a way of resealing it.
Here's the original thread, but it doesn't really lead anywhere: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-ignition-switch.421193/ I still haven't had time to do much digging, been just too busy. Hope we can get somewhere in the coming weeks.
What were the symptoms of your car that prompted you to look into the switch? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Small update, still haven't installed this switch. I actually have 4-5 lying around and early tests show that they are set up differently such that there is no ACC function with them. There is surely a switch out there which does allow the ACC function. In the meantime we installed the proper starter relay in hoping the load off the switch will solve the issue. If and when the time comes, I'll put this switch in as I don't think the ACC function is really necessary for a summer car.
Thanks for the feedback, Luigi. Disappointing. I don't know if I recall corrrectly, but this message thread may have been already linked to an alternate part message thread (perhaps the moderators can recall this?). The ACC position is used for a number of functions and will affect the illumination of the Alternator warning light and may affect the operation of the ABS system. What people might assume is that the accessory function is not active when the ignition key is in RUN or START, but a commutator in the ignition lock allows battery/alternator power to go to multiple contacts on the ignition lock at the same time. (EDIT: If Miroljub is listening, maybe he can add a comment here)
Regarding the ABS, a faulty ACC circuit may stop the ABS pump operating. Ferrari 348 ABS Wiring Diagram "15a" on the ignition switch is the accessory position.
If a switch without a separate ACC position is used, all wires that were originally connected to the ACC pin (15a) would have to be connected to the ign. ON pin (15b) together with the wires that are existing there. With this, everything will function as normal.
So, as always OEM-ness comes at a cost. On my F355 (5.2/Bosch), the ABS light comes on for a few seconds with the ignition switch in ACC. I assume this is the same on the F348?
When I spoke to the guys at Alfaholics they told me that a client fit this on his 355. Might be worth a try as well: https://www.alfaholics.com/parts/105-series/ignition/ignition-switch-s3-s4-spider/
On 348s, with the key in the ACC position, the ABS pump is activated to fill the brake accumulator (you can hear the pump humming) and the ABS light is on during this sequence. When the accumulator is fully pressurized, the pressure switch will cut the power to the ABS pump and the light goes off. So, the ABS light will be on longer or shorter depending on how empty the accumulator was when switching to ACC. The accumulator will hold pressure for some time, a day or two, between the pressure switch "off" (180 Bar) and "on" (140 Bar) settings and, if switching to ACC fairly soon after the previous accumulator fill-up, the ABS light will not come on at all.
Thanks, Miro. Do you have any theories on why the pump should run in the ACC position? I can't see the average person pausing in the ACC position prior to moving to RUN, then to START. All it seems to do is add a check light function ... or perhaps help a technician diagnose a problem. Maybe they just ran out of space for wires on the RUN terminal of the ignition lock? I hadn't started the car for a month or so, so that explains the illumination period.
I believe that the reason for having the ABS pump operate at the ACC key position is for convenience when bleeding the brakes or diagnosing the ABS system - you don't need to switch the ignition "on" and unnecessarily drain the battery. Maybe also because the ABS diagnostics cannot be performed if the engine ECUs are also energised.
