Ferrari FF Repair Advice | FerrariChat

Ferrari FF Repair Advice

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by FerrariFF-4LIFE, Feb 8, 2022.

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  1. FerrariFF-4LIFE

    Feb 8, 2022
    5
    Full Name:
    Usman Shareef
    Hi Guys,

    I am new to this forum so just want to start off by saying Hello to all!

    My Ferrari FF is currently in a sad state and i am beginning to repair it and would like to pick your clever brains for some advice. I have been repairing cars as a hobby for the last 10 years, nothing major like engine rebuilds but more simple stuff like suspension components, radiators, exhaust tune ups etc.

    The FF has suffered some damage to the front Right Hand Side corner. Damage includes:

    - Front radiators
    - Front Right Side Wishbones, Shock Absorber, possibly the knuckle but looks visually fine
    - All the skinnier frame work around the front right hand side corner
    - PTU rad and Pipes
    - All relevant bodypanels in that area.


    So far i want to get the car running in a safe manner before i begin to fix the bodywork. So first step is:

    - Change any broken/ripped hoses and pipes which there are a few coolant ones and the both of the main PTU ones.
    - Change the PTU Cooler Rad
    - Install the water rad
    - The main oil pipe at the bottom of the oil tank is also leaking so that needs changing.
    - Top up Engine Oil, PTU Gear Oil and Coolant.

    Therein i encounter my first obstacle, i have all the hoses which i will be swapping out within the next few days, but i need recommendation on which:

    - Engine Oil and how many Litres it will take?
    Manual States: SHELL HELIX ULTRA Racing SAE 10W-60,13 litres, Any alternatives?

    - PTU Gear Oil and how many Litres?
    Manual States: PTU gear oil system (4) SHELL TF 1055, 3 litres, but this oil is very hard to find, any other ones i can use?


    My second issue is that i wish to change all the threaded stud bolts which the wishbones connect to, i have the new ones here but would like some advise on how to do it. There's 8 in total. 4 for each wishbone.

    I will attempt to remove the old ones again in the next couple of days, i presume they should be fairly easy to screw out with some self locking pliers, should they come out easily?

    My next question is, when i put the new ones in what torque should i do them too? do i need to use some threadlocking compound like Loctite? i was going to get two nuts and lock them against each other to form some sort of head and then screw the threaded stud in like that, does anyone have any other suggestions?

    Thanks in advance!









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  2. RayJohns

    RayJohns F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    May 21, 2006
    7,408
    West Coast
    Full Name:
    Ray
    Gear wrench and others make stud removing sockets (which can be used for installation as well). Put some tape on to help protect the studs and you should be able to break them free. Blue loctite is always a good idea on suspension and brake components in my opinion.

    Ray
     
  3. greyboxer

    greyboxer F1 World Champ

    Dec 8, 2004
    12,336
    South East
    Full Name:
    Jimmie
    #3 greyboxer, Feb 9, 2022
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2022
    Welcome - there's a lot of knowledge down in the FF section -- also the lubricants should be listed in the owners manual
     
  4. windsock

    windsock Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 29, 2006
    1,076
    Engine oil you can run the Liquid molly 10-60
    The PTU has two fluids in it. The Shell TF 1055 is used for the gear assembly and is important to use the fluid as not just the gear set is lubricated and cooled with the but the wet clutch packs. Incorrect fluid will cause chatter and damage to the clutches. Spend the time to find it. If you are in the US I may be able to help you with Shell part numbers and a vender.
    The other portion of the PTU is the F1 system which is essentially Dextron, sounds like you do not have an issue with that side of the system.
     
  5. FerrariFF-4LIFE

    Feb 8, 2022
    5
    Full Name:
    Usman Shareef
    Thanks for all the replies!

    So i ordered a Gear Wrench and it did work well with most of the studs but i could not get to the snapped ones and the ones in the top corners with it as it is quite large. I used two nuts and locked them together and screwed out two studs that way which worked well. For the snapped ones i managed to get some grip pliers on one and turned it out. The other one was too short, i tried using a screw extractor but it snapped inside it, so i flattened the side and used a spanner to take it out. They are out now. They had no threadlock on them, at least i could not see any residue of any threadlock on them.

    Is old threadlock residue visible on bolts/studs after removing the screw after a few years?

    I am in the UK, i have since spoke to Opie Oils in the UK who recommended Motul Gear 300 75w-90 Fully Synthetic Racing Transmission and Diff oil. They actually mentioned that Motul themselves recommend it for the PTU system. I have since bought 3 litres of this and syringed it into the bottom of the PTU unit, just over 2 litres went in. I still have to run it yet to let it work through.

    What do you reckon of the Motul 300 @windsock?

    The Hydraulic part of the PTU system is seperate which i dont need to touch as it has not been disturbed.

    I also managed to get the Shell 10w-60 Engine Oil that Ferrari recommend, 20 litres for £165 which is not a bad deal, so i will be putting that in for now.


    So far i have done the following since posting last:

    - Screwed in the new PTU Rad Pipes, in both the PTU side and the Radiator side, and cable tied the radiator up to the leg for time being
    - Removed all the threaded studs from the right side wishbone mounts
    - The lower Oil Tank Pipe was leaking slightly so changed that out
    - Changed the small additional little water pump and a few coolant hoses

    Next step:

    - I have 3 more coolant hoses i need to change as they had rips in that i did not see, they should come any day now.
    - Install the new coolant radiator
    - Put the Engine Oil, 9 litres primarily then warm for 3 mins and then go through the procedure for checking engine oil level
    - Add the coolant with the two bleed hoses off, wait til coolant comes through and then put them back on and follow the coolant bleeding technique.
    - Install the battery which has been trickle charging
    - START HER UP!



     
  6. windsock

    windsock Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 29, 2006
    1,076

    I don't have any experience with the Motule engine oil but they make great products, we use their brake fluid in everything. It sounds as if you have done your homework. I work on customer vehicles so we just stay with the OE product and brads as much as possible. I am sure it will be fine.
     
  7. FerrariFF-4LIFE

    Feb 8, 2022
    5
    Full Name:
    Usman Shareef
    Good News!

    The last coolant pipe came today. I installed it, got it all water tight, put coolant in, put engine oil in and i started her.

    Upon first turn over, it was throwing a fuel inertia switch error on the dash, it was turning over but not firing. I pressed it a few time (under the front part of the Front Left Hand side Seat) and then tried turning it over and it fired up straight away.

    I added 9 Litres off engine oil originally, then started it, idled for 3 mins, then turned it off and added 4 litres more.

    My issue is i cant meet all the requirements of the fluid filling processes for the Coolant, Engine Oil, and PTU Gear Fluid as i have no fans on the rad so dont want to be revving for 4 minutes at 4000 revs etc, and warming up to 80 90 degrees as it states in the workshop manuals.

    The engine sounds good and thats the main thing,

    I am getting a PTU error on the dash, i can't remember what it said however like i said i need to go through the process of filling it up properly, i have 2 litres in there but the manual says to start her and idle her and then keep adding oil until it takes no more.

    Does the PTU system throw an error if there isn't enough gear oil in it? how much does it take? manual states 3 litres.


    Thanks @windsock, yeah i have been reading up loads on this and even going through all manuals and whatever i can find online to do this properly.
     
  8. windsock

    windsock Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 29, 2006
    1,076

    PTU has no level check or feedback for the gear oil side so that will not cause an error. You will need to get the code and go from there.
     
  9. FerrariFF-4LIFE

    Feb 8, 2022
    5
    Full Name:
    Usman Shareef
    Oh right, i have since put the running gear back on, started it, went to put it in gear and nothing, it just stays in P, cannot select Reverse, cannot put it into first, nothing. Anyone got any ideas? do these cars not go into gear if the bonnet is open?
     
  10. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
    Consultant Professional Ferrari Technician

    Sep 18, 2002
    19,413
    The Cold North
    Full Name:
    Tom
    They do not. Make sure all doors are shut..trunk hood etc.
     
  11. FerrariFF-4LIFE

    Feb 8, 2022
    5
    Full Name:
    Usman Shareef
    Thanks for the quick reply! I hope that is my issue, i have ordered a new hood latch, should be arriving in the next couple days, hopefully that will be the issue and my car will drive! will keep you posted.

    Btw, has anyone ever had to change a wishbone on any of these post 2011 2012 ferrari's? they alll have a sleeve in the hole of the hub that the wishbone ball joint goes into?
     

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