Forza Controller Install on 488 with Pics

Homelink is something that will/cannot not be programmed with these 433 Mhz remotes imo …

These remote controls are all basically the same ...

 

Steve,

Have you programmed your controller to your Homelink? If so, what controller did you use to do so. I've gotten conflicting reports about whether it can be done and with which controller.

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using FerrariChat.com mobile app

 

If the Homelink system is up to date ... at Version 7 or later ... then it will support frequencies of 433 MHz. According to Homelink's web site ... software version 7 supports even higher frequencies. I do not know how one might find out if a particular Homelink system is at Version 7. But generally, cars prior to 2014 were at prior versions of Homelink. Cars after 2014 are, generally, at Version 7 (or higher). Cars after 2014 from GM, Alfa Romeo and others have not had any problem getting the Forza remote to program.

The most common frequency in the US for remotes is 315 MHz. But this frequency is typically not used or not authorized in Europe. The original Homelink systems only went up to around 350MHz so it covered the US / North America market OK. As these remote devices became popular in Europe, Homelink had to start supporting higher frequencies ... up to 868MHz. It is possible that Ferrari's destined for US market may be using a version of Homelink that does not support the higher frequencies.

Here are a couple of tips that I have found ...

• Generally, the Homelink instructions state to hold the remote 1 to 3 inches away from the Homelink system while programming. Some devices actually train better 6 to 12 inches away. Keep this in mind if having difficulty programming.
• Some countries require transmitter remote signals to "time-out" (or quit) after several seconds of transmission ... which may not be long enough for the the Homelink system to clone the signal during programming. Because of this requirement in some countries, many remotes have this characteristic built in to make them more widely acceptable. To overcome this, during programming of the Homelink button, press and release the remote button ("cycle") every two seconds until the Homlink system indicates successful programming. This may take 30 seconds or so.

If your car is 2015 or later, try the techniques above. If you still cannot get the remote to be programmed to Homelink, then more than likely the vehicle manufacturer did not install the latest version of Homelink.

Regards,

Steve

 

Great tutorial! I'm planning this for a 458. My concern is reaching the engine bay to install the controller. (I assume that's where you put it on your 458) How did you reach those Torx heads without scratching the paint or leaning on the car? Any other hints from your personal 458 install?

 

I believe the tutorial here is for the 488 ... not the 458. The location of the vacuum solenoid valves on the 458 is a bit different and I do not believe they are accessible by removing the inner wheel liner. Most people access the 458 solenoids by moving the air box to the side or removing the air diffuser.

Steve

 

Another option to drape over the car’s panels to lessen the possibilty of marring the finish is a common rubber backed bath mat. Run on down to your local Walmart and get a couple of those nice fluffy rubber backed bath mats. As long as you don’t place the rubber side on the floor, they offer a non-scratchy backing for your paint and the rubber backing will minimize slippage. I have a couple of these that never are placed on the ground and work great.

Steve

 

Have the Capristo on my 15. Was dealer installed. There are 2 contol buttons. One for sport other for quite. When shutting the car off and say the car is in sport prior to shut down, press both buttons simultaneously and it will remain in the mode prior to shut down for startup . Otherwise will revert to factory setting. Great system, I like Capristo reputation with their exhaust systems. I prefer to start my car in stock mode then switch to sport once engine temp etc reaches operating temp. No issues with the system. From what I'm told the capristo unit is more compact and easier to install. This was the unit suggested by my dealer. Someone suggested drone with these units in the 458 with highway driving and I have not found that to be true.

 

The Capristo module and the Forza module are approximately the same size. The Capristo is slightly smaller but it is insignificant. Other differences are:

• Capristo unit has a plastic housing ... the Forza unit is aluminum
• The Capristo unit is easier to set up for the default mode for engine start (valves open or normal mode). Can be done using remote fob. The Forza unit can also be set up for the default mode at engine start, but, need to access the control module.
• The Forza unit has an option to keep the valves always closed. Not often used, but included. The Capristo unit does not have this option.
• The Capristo unit comes with short reach and long reach connection wires, but the wires are common automotive wiring encased inside a common nylon tubing sleeve. The Forza unit comes with heat and oil resistant industrial grade power cables.
• The Capristo unit cost nearly twice the Forza unit.

Both Capristo and Forza have good reputations and you are not likely to go wrong with either.

 

Great idea!

 

Thanks for the link to your 458 install! Great photos. I just changed my battery and have no flesh left on my knuckles. So, I'll tackle this before the skin grows back.

P.S. On the install, are they Y connectors? One to the ECU original lines and then one to the solenoid valves? Will I need more clips than the original two I'm reusing?

 

You will not need any new clips. The Forza controller comes with connection cables included. One side of the cable is a four-way Superseal plug and other end is the Y-connector with a male and female 2-way JPT plug.
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The male JPT connectors connects to the existing cable coming from the ECU and the female JPT connects to the solenoid valve.

With most female JPT connectors, you can release the connector by pressing down on the clip. This will spread the clip wire at the base and you can then release it. On the 458 and 488, Ferrari, in their infinite wisdom, sourced JPT connectors that do not have this feature. You have to remove the clip (with a pair of pliers) and then disconnect the plug. Once you remove the clip, re-install it on the connector shell as you only need to push it on the mating connector till you hear a click. This is what John was explaining in his post on Feb 5.

Steve

 

Thanks for the info. Infinite wisdom and Ferrari do seem to be mentioned in the same sentence an awful lot!

 

Thanks John. I will be installing my controller with confidence thanks to you!

 

I have just been installing the bypass and that bottom screw of the liner does require the diffuser to be removed (or loosened).
...there's always 1 screw they have to make difficult!

 

Yes, I just loosened it. To access the LH lower liner screw, I removed 2 bolts and 3 or 4 torque screws from LHS of diffuser. This allows you to pull the diffuser down a couple of centimetres to get to the lower screw.
Then same procedure on RHS.....was so much easier installing it on the 430!!!
I will post a pic later showing where I mounted the controller and ground wire.

 

I just installed my controller following this post. Everything was spot on including the lower liner screw under the diffuser. I recommend purchasing the optional extension cable if you mount the controller on one side of the engine bay. The only change I made to the controller itself is to move the jumper from ECU at startup to open. Thanks everyone for helping the rookie out!

 

Controller and ground locations on LHS.

 

Ok so John did a great job with pics and arrows for installing a exhaust valve controller in a 488. But here are a few details that will make it easier 1) After wheel is off only remove the rear half of the wheel liner.
2) I suggest you keep track of the allen bolts you remove from fender liner, so you don't forget to put all back.
( Note on my 2016 they are 14 mm allen bolts not torx) ) 3) The image of the valve connector is good but, be aware it is very close to back bumper skin on a upper frame rail.
4) In my case I removed the 2 upper engine covers.to expedite wire routing
( Engine plastic held by( 2 14 mm Allen bolts on each, I used a 14 mm allen socket and ratchet as clearance on the front allen bolts is tight)
5)The wiring was run under the latch cover and along the frame. There is a very clear no bind not near the exhaust by the air box.
6)I zip tied my module to the left of the latch cover and grounded to the bolt holding the left side hood stop.
7) With the covers on the wiring and the unit is invisible.
Final note this install is very easy and if you simply remove the wheel the back wheel liner and the two engine covers should take 1hr at a casual and safe pace.

 

Hi John. I’m actually looking to locate the solenoids on my Spider but can’t find them in the engine bay. I’ve looked at online parts diagram burn still have issues. Any advice you could give or a photo of the location please?

 

Did you have to connect to a 12v power source and if so, could you kindly let me know which wire? Thank you!

 

With the 488 (not the Pista), the controller obtains its power from the existing connection cable that connects to the existing vacuum solenoid valve. When you connect the controller to that existing cable, it gets its power from there. You do not have to do anything else.

Steve

 

Thanks Steve. You wouldn’t know a 12v power source in the engine bay would you?