Garage Setup - Ideal for DIY Maintenance? | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Garage Setup - Ideal for DIY Maintenance?

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by cray54, Jan 26, 2011.

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  1. Rorie

    Rorie Formula Junior

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    I think 12 feet would be better. Mine is 10 feet, and it works, but in hindsight I could store a lot more up high with 12.
     
  2. DGS

    DGS Seven Time F1 World Champ Rossa Subscribed

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    Be careful what you store "up high".

    The garage I'm in now has some shelving suspended about 6.5 feet up. I bumped one of them, and when the car polish hit the floor, it shattered. And splashed. Everywhere. Particularly onto both cars.

    Now I store all fluids either at floor level or in the non-garage storage.

    (The high shelf has the chamois cloths.)
     
  3. Bagherra

    Bagherra Rookie

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    +1 on this!!
     
  4. duskybird

    duskybird F1 World Champ Owner Rossa Subscribed

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  5. Bryanp

    Bryanp F1 Rookie

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    someone mentioned digging/pouring a pit since the existing ceiling height is too low for a lift.

    l just finished re-engineering 3 of the existing roof trusses on one side of the two car garage - sistering 2x6s w/ a collar beam to those trusses, and them cutting out the bottom chord and other interstitial truss pieces that were below the collar beam. I went from an 8'-6" ceiling to 11'-6" in that section, giving me a clear width of 8"-0" above the lift.

    This has to be much cheaper than cutting/busting the existing slab, excavating, forming/reinforcing/pouring a pit (and depending on your soil and ground water conditions, you might need to drain/sump it).

    I am in the middle of completing the garage I started building 12 years ago (when I finished only the shell. I have done many of the things mentioned so far on this thread. I ran two underground conduits out to the the garage 12 years ago, one for power to a subpanel, and the other for phone, cable, intercom, etc. I have 30a, 220 outlets in both portions. I got a deceivingly small Dayton electric heater which has kept the 635sf at 55 degrees w/ no problem during the coldest January we've had in years (northern Virginia).

    I have partitioned the garage into two halves - "clean" shop and "dirty" shop. My father claims he has restored his last car, so I am getting his C&H stand-up compressor, mig welder and media blasting cabinet. We do restoration work, so these items will get a lot of work. I am planning on running a "Rapid air" system to several points in the garage from the complressor. http://www.rapidairproducts.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=2&cat=Rapidair

    When I built the garage, I did not have the funds or inclination to run water/sewage to the garage; it is at the low point of the property so I would have needed to include an ejector pump. I wish I had done it now, but, oh, well.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2011
  6. tomberlin

    tomberlin Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    Hey Brian-
    If you get a few spare minutes how about posting a sketch of the truss modifications you made? I'm considering a similar project but lack your expertise.

    Cheers,
    TomB
     
  7. tr0768

    tr0768 Formula Junior

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    If you want to make a single center door garage you might check to see if you can install a header accross both present door openings. If you install and gluelam beam accross both door openings you can then install a wider door in the center of the opening.

    Using gluelam will allow you to use a smaller header and give you a larger opening. Instead of 2 8' doors you can install a 10 or 12' door which allow much more access. This would allow you to install a hoist in the center of the garage and have lots of room on both sides.

    Howard Musolf
    1981 308gtsi
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  8. cray54

    cray54 Karting

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    Well… after several months of work taking over, I’ve decided to follow through on what I’ve started. Based on recommendations I’ve gotten, I think this is a decent list of things to include when finishing. I have short list of tools at the bottom that I’ll target, but I’m focusing on the permanent fixtures / finishing necessary for the garage structure. It was suggested to get things that will be used… one of the benefits I have is proximity to family with shops. Small machine work is only ¼ mile away, major fab and painting work only 2 miles.

    Constraints
    *Have to keep it a 2 car garage (after all , I need a place for the Dino while I work on the Audis)
    *Low ceiling
    *Cannot change “garage” dimensions

    General Finishing
    *Electricity
    -Sub panel in garage
    -Outlets every 4 ft (alternate breakers, use GFCI)
    -Some outlets on ceiling
    *Lighting
    -Fluorescent lights (newer electronic ballasts)
    -Flush mounted in ceiling (due to low ceiling)
    -Flush mounted in wall?
    -White walls
    *Surface finishes
    -Insulate walls and ceiling
    -Finish walls and ceiling / paint white for lighting
    -Seal / coat floor
    *HVAC
    -Window mount heat pump
    *Plumbing
    -Sink and drain
    -Air lines
    *Work surface / storage
    -Work bench
    -Dirty bench
    -Good vice
    -Cabinets mounted at front (away from vehicles due to space)
    *Lift
    -Low rise lift (not necessarily necessary, but I do already have one so…)

    Tools / accessories suggested include – toolbox, air compressor, air tools, welder, parts cleaner, engine hoist, radio, etc.

    Thanks for all the suggestions,
    Chris
     
  9. no8080

    no8080 Karting

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    I would add sorting the floor out as well, it you have a concrete floor and no height due to a low ceiling you are going to spend a lot of time on your knees or backside working on the car. So putting down some rubber or foam tiles will make for a more comfortable experience. Plus it helps with insulation, sound proofing and looks good.

    I have just finished installing foam tiles in my double garage, very similar to your own, it makes a great difference.

    Neil
     
  10. Nurburgringer

    Nurburgringer F1 World Champ

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    Good thread, and sounds like you're thinking it through Chris.
    I'm at a somewhat similar stage with my new garage.
    After knocking out an unfinished room in the corner there's room for 4 cars still with space to move around.
    Haven't yet pulled the trigger on a air compressor (will likely be a I-R 20g 2hp ~$500 from Sears or a 21g 2.5hp Harbor Freight model that goes on sale for $150 in 2 weeks. ) or found/made workbenches yet, but it's coming together.
    If you have a HF near you I highly recommend one or two of these rolling tool carts when they're on sale for $99. Very sturdy and useful.
    Don't forget a bench grinder.
    Also, white may be great for light reflection but you have a lot of taping/mudding/sanding etc to get it to look right. The PO put wood paneling and particle board up in my garage (and some big mirrors for his wife's ballroom dancing!), and I like it.
    cheers
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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  11. cray54

    cray54 Karting

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    In wall vs. On wall...

    Electricity in wall or on wall?
    *If in wall, in conduit or not worth it?

    Air in wall or on wall?

    -Chris
     
  12. wilkrod

    wilkrod Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    Added this to our house, existing 3 car garage just wasn't getting it.
    12'X20' Garden Shed in back of garage to keep all the non automotive stuff.
    Floor is U-Coat, Dimensions are 40X30, 12 foot walls.
    Need to close in the rafters, and have 4 additional light fixtures to hang yet.
    4 post lift with sliding jack.
    8'x8' loft in back corner, great for parts storage.
    220 electrical, 115 outlets every 6 ft, plumbed for air, 2 outlets on each side wall.
    Needless to say I have an understanding wife.
    Regards
    Jeff
    86 Turbo Esprit
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    Assorted Daily drivers.
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  13. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran Owner

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  14. RWebber

    RWebber Formula Junior

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    That is a lot of black on those walls
     
  15. mikeyr

    mikeyr Formula 3

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    I have a 4-post lift that I store one car on top of the 360, I can move the car and put the 360 on the lift to change the oil and do minor stuff. I don't work on the 360 much, I prefer letting the dealer handle it.

    For my other car, I find the 4-post to be perfect for removing the gearbox and doing the clutch. And with the sliding jack it is quick and easy to remove the wheels.

    I also have a maxjax that I drilled holes both in the garage and in the driveway for, I can move them easily to the driveway on sunny days and leave them in the garage on non-sunny days. I am using the maxjax more and more often for quick things like oil changes. I originally purchased the maxjax for doing the engine on the 355 (that I never bought, but I got the lift while planning for it).

    I don't particularly like the scissor lifts as they dont allow very much access underneath the car, I have one of those also and I use it on a car that i am restoring, its wonderful to not have to bend over the frame all day while working on it.

    Space is the most important part of a working garage, you need space to get organized.
     

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