Garage Setup - Ideal for DIY Maintenance?

I think 12 feet would be better. Mine is 10 feet, and it works, but in hindsight I could store a lot more up high with 12.

 

Be careful what you store "up high".

The garage I'm in now has some shelving suspended about 6.5 feet up. I bumped one of them, and when the car polish hit the floor, it shattered. And splashed. Everywhere. Particularly onto both cars.

Now I store all fluids either at floor level or in the non-garage storage.

(The high shelf has the chamois cloths.)

 

+1 on this!!

 

Here's some of the old and new/additional garage/shop.

I'm still in the process of finishing the new shop. This is what it looks like now.
There is still a 14 X 40 lathe and a 10 X 50 mill to be moved into the new place.

As has been stated before, Great lighting, air and power EVERYWHERE!!!!!
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

someone mentioned digging/pouring a pit since the existing ceiling height is too low for a lift.

l just finished re-engineering 3 of the existing roof trusses on one side of the two car garage - sistering 2x6s w/ a collar beam to those trusses, and them cutting out the bottom chord and other interstitial truss pieces that were below the collar beam. I went from an 8'-6" ceiling to 11'-6" in that section, giving me a clear width of 8"-0" above the lift.

This has to be much cheaper than cutting/busting the existing slab, excavating, forming/reinforcing/pouring a pit (and depending on your soil and ground water conditions, you might need to drain/sump it).

I am in the middle of completing the garage I started building 12 years ago (when I finished only the shell. I have done many of the things mentioned so far on this thread. I ran two underground conduits out to the the garage 12 years ago, one for power to a subpanel, and the other for phone, cable, intercom, etc. I have 30a, 220 outlets in both portions. I got a deceivingly small Dayton electric heater which has kept the 635sf at 55 degrees w/ no problem during the coldest January we've had in years (northern Virginia).

I have partitioned the garage into two halves - "clean" shop and "dirty" shop. My father claims he has restored his last car, so I am getting his C&H stand-up compressor, mig welder and media blasting cabinet. We do restoration work, so these items will get a lot of work. I am planning on running a "Rapid air" system to several points in the garage from the complressor. http://www.rapidairproducts.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=2&cat=Rapidair

When I built the garage, I did not have the funds or inclination to run water/sewage to the garage; it is at the low point of the property so I would have needed to include an ejector pump. I wish I had done it now, but, oh, well.

 

Hey Brian-
If you get a few spare minutes how about posting a sketch of the truss modifications you made? I'm considering a similar project but lack your expertise.

Cheers,
TomB

 

If you want to make a single center door garage you might check to see if you can install a header accross both present door openings. If you install and gluelam beam accross both door openings you can then install a wider door in the center of the opening.

Using gluelam will allow you to use a smaller header and give you a larger opening. Instead of 2 8' doors you can install a 10 or 12' door which allow much more access. This would allow you to install a hoist in the center of the garage and have lots of room on both sides.

Howard Musolf
1981 308gtsi
1982 400i Cabriolet
Maerati Spider
1987 Lotus Esprit Turbo
2 many brass era cars

 

Well… after several months of work taking over, I’ve decided to follow through on what I’ve started. Based on recommendations I’ve gotten, I think this is a decent list of things to include when finishing. I have short list of tools at the bottom that I’ll target, but I’m focusing on the permanent fixtures / finishing necessary for the garage structure. It was suggested to get things that will be used… one of the benefits I have is proximity to family with shops. Small machine work is only ¼ mile away, major fab and painting work only 2 miles.

Constraints
*Have to keep it a 2 car garage (after all , I need a place for the Dino while I work on the Audis)
*Low ceiling
*Cannot change “garage” dimensions

General Finishing
*Electricity
-Sub panel in garage
-Outlets every 4 ft (alternate breakers, use GFCI)
-Some outlets on ceiling
*Lighting
-Fluorescent lights (newer electronic ballasts)
-Flush mounted in ceiling (due to low ceiling)
-Flush mounted in wall?
-White walls
*Surface finishes
-Insulate walls and ceiling
-Finish walls and ceiling / paint white for lighting
-Seal / coat floor
*HVAC
-Window mount heat pump
*Plumbing
-Sink and drain
-Air lines
*Work surface / storage
-Work bench
-Dirty bench
-Good vice
-Cabinets mounted at front (away from vehicles due to space)
*Lift
-Low rise lift (not necessarily necessary, but I do already have one so…)

Tools / accessories suggested include – toolbox, air compressor, air tools, welder, parts cleaner, engine hoist, radio, etc.

Thanks for all the suggestions,
Chris

 

I would add sorting the floor out as well, it you have a concrete floor and no height due to a low ceiling you are going to spend a lot of time on your knees or backside working on the car. So putting down some rubber or foam tiles will make for a more comfortable experience. Plus it helps with insulation, sound proofing and looks good.

I have just finished installing foam tiles in my double garage, very similar to your own, it makes a great difference.

Neil

 

Good thread, and sounds like you're thinking it through Chris.
I'm at a somewhat similar stage with my new garage.
After knocking out an unfinished room in the corner there's room for 4 cars still with space to move around.
Haven't yet pulled the trigger on a air compressor (will likely be a I-R 20g 2hp ~$500 from Sears or a 21g 2.5hp Harbor Freight model that goes on sale for $150 in 2 weeks. ) or found/made workbenches yet, but it's coming together.
If you have a HF near you I highly recommend one or two of these rolling tool carts when they're on sale for $99. Very sturdy and useful.
Don't forget a bench grinder.
Also, white may be great for light reflection but you have a lot of taping/mudding/sanding etc to get it to look right. The PO put wood paneling and particle board up in my garage (and some big mirrors for his wife's ballroom dancing!), and I like it.
cheers
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

In wall vs. On wall...

Electricity in wall or on wall?
*If in wall, in conduit or not worth it?

Air in wall or on wall?

-Chris

 

Added this to our house, existing 3 car garage just wasn't getting it.
12'X20' Garden Shed in back of garage to keep all the non automotive stuff.
Floor is U-Coat, Dimensions are 40X30, 12 foot walls.
Need to close in the rafters, and have 4 additional light fixtures to hang yet.
4 post lift with sliding jack.
8'x8' loft in back corner, great for parts storage.
220 electrical, 115 outlets every 6 ft, plumbed for air, 2 outlets on each side wall.
Needless to say I have an understanding wife.
Regards
Jeff
86 Turbo Esprit
83 Mondial
87 Porsche 944S Track Car Project
Assorted Daily drivers.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

wish I had more room but it still works!
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

That is a lot of black on those walls

 

I have a 4-post lift that I store one car on top of the 360, I can move the car and put the 360 on the lift to change the oil and do minor stuff. I don't work on the 360 much, I prefer letting the dealer handle it.

For my other car, I find the 4-post to be perfect for removing the gearbox and doing the clutch. And with the sliding jack it is quick and easy to remove the wheels.

I also have a maxjax that I drilled holes both in the garage and in the driveway for, I can move them easily to the driveway on sunny days and leave them in the garage on non-sunny days. I am using the maxjax more and more often for quick things like oil changes. I originally purchased the maxjax for doing the engine on the 355 (that I never bought, but I got the lift while planning for it).

I don't particularly like the scissor lifts as they dont allow very much access underneath the car, I have one of those also and I use it on a car that i am restoring, its wonderful to not have to bend over the frame all day while working on it.

Space is the most important part of a working garage, you need space to get organized.