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GTS Vent Window Frame Problems

Discussion in '206/246' started by racerboy9, Aug 13, 2019.

  1. racerboy9

    racerboy9 Formula 3
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    Nov 3, 2003
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    I've searched the forum and read of others noting the dimensional discrepancy between left and right doors. When installing the vent window frames I have ran into this snag. Both doors were unmolested originals. The drivers door vent frame installation went like a dream. The passenger door frame was installed properly but hits the windshield surround at the peak way too soon when shutting the door. With the weatherstrip installed it will flex out but is under a lot of pressure. I think it went out the factory door this way and they let it slide. Also the center roller at the top of the door is very close to the glass compared to the drivers side. I am thinking about straightening a bit the curved rectangular tube the top cable wheels are mounted to in an effort to gain an extra 1/8"clearance near the center cable wheel. Has anyone else dealt with this problem?
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  2. dgt

    dgt Formula 3
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    Jan 14, 2011
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    Andrew
    I think the only way to adjust this is using spacers (washers) to offset the tab at the bottom of the window frame where it bolts in at the bottom, inside the door. Sorry, pic would help but don’t have one handy...
     
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  3. racerboy9

    racerboy9 Formula 3
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    Nov 3, 2003
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    I have played with putting the vent frame lower tab inside the fixed bracket with spacers and thought about the idea of cutting, moving and welding the mating area of the fixed bracket but that won't help me with the cable pulley being too close to the glass. Today I am going to try manipulate the rectangular tube the cable pulleys are mounted to and see if that helps. I only need to pull it out about 1/8" near the center. I'll report back how it goes.
     
  4. dgt

    dgt Formula 3
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    Ah right, suspect you might need to pad the vent frame where it goes into the door to move the glass away from the pulley. The outer door skin will flex a little but that inside rectangular tube the pulleys are on won’t (That top middle pulley is very close to the glass, I had to do this)
     
  5. racerboy9

    racerboy9 Formula 3
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    Well I think I have had 70% success in correcting both the pulley clearance and getting more clearance where the peak of the frame was hitting the windshield surround. I put a stiff 2x4 across the rectangular tube and used a C-clamp to squeeze near the center of the curvature. When I released the clamp it seemed like it flexed back to it's original shape but I gained the clearance I was looking for on the pulley. To tilt the vent frame out I put the lower vent frame tab with a spacer on the inside of the mounting bracket plus a washer behind the upper mounting tab and that improved the clearance at the peak of the frame an acceptable amount. I installed the glass and it goes up and down in the tracks nicely. That Shin Etsu window track grease from Honda is the bee's knees for lubrication. I guess Ferrari figured if you can shut the door and nothing breaks send it on down the line.
     
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  6. sp1der

    sp1der Formula 3
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    Simon Ashley
    It is normal that the final gap and flush part of car assembly that things like this are 'tweeked' however most people would be alarmed at how much brute force is used and some of the tools, I would suspect it was no different when the Dino was built,
     
  7. racerboy9

    racerboy9 Formula 3
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    There was a vintage black and white clip of final adjustments on the Volvo assembly line and most people would cringe at what was done to make the doors and hoods fit.
     
  8. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
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    Scott
    05702 has a tight center, top cable wheel too
     

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