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Head gaskets

Discussion in '308/328' started by TommyA, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. smg2

    smg2 F1 Veteran
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    Apr 1, 2004
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    Yup, if the discolored area can not be felt when you drag your nail across it, then don't worry about it. What many may not know is that their engine may have the same thing, moisture that sits will cause that, it happens when it sits after shut down in a humid environment. Fuel wash does more damage.
     
  2. TommyA

    TommyA Formula Junior
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    Oct 7, 2002
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    Tommy A
    You can barely feel it but your nail will not grab on it.
    PS I just looked at the Loctite and I believe that they have changed it to SI 5923.
     
  3. smg2

    smg2 F1 Veteran
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    Loctite changed a bunch of numbers.. sounds about right. It was 30516... Then 30517... And now 5923, it might also change up due to container size. Aviation sealant is what your looking for, brown tar, sticks like poo and thinned with alcohol.
     
  4. TommyA

    TommyA Formula Junior
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    This is what I got from them.

    Loctite SI 5923 red-brown gasket sealant with a 12 hr cure time. Minimum to maximum operating temperatures are -65 F to +400 F. Comes in a 16 fl oz Brush Top Can. Formerly known as Loctite Aviation Gasket Sealant.
     
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  5. kcabpilot

    kcabpilot Formula Junior

    Apr 17, 2014
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    That’s the same stuff as Permatex No 3, it’s for machined surfaces with no gasket such as aircraft engine case halves. It’s not meant to fill in pits or voids. If you really feel you need to fill the pits I’d suggest JB-Weld, file and block sand it down even with the liner protrusion after it cures. That’s probably the best you can do but as I and others have already said there’s a good chance you don’t need to do anything, just put it together with the new gaskets and be done. Still, JB-Weld wouldn’t hurt anything. It has a good rep.
     
  6. derekw

    derekw Formula Junior
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    Perhaps torque the heads down evenly but just a little, let the sealant cure, then to final torque and recheck after a day or two. Several have suggested a retorque after a few hours running.

    There’s probably >90% chance you’ll be ok. Perhaps drill the cam oil drain hole and change some cheap oil seals while it’s out— small, easy jobs while easily accessible. Wiggle the cam drive pulleys and change bearings if loose.
     
  7. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    290
    Morning all,
    I fully agree, If the block surface or the head isn't true, you ain't fixing anything with new rings and gasket. At least on the picture that liner doesn't look that bad (compared to mine).
    I still think that you shouldn't focus on the liner itself, you should focus on the cause of why there was water in that cylinder from the beginning.
    Imagine you replace the liner, put it all back together and problem persists, now what???

    Measure twice, cut once.

    Hope this helps.

    John.
     
  8. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    290
    Morning Paul,
    JB Weld is an Epoxy. Epoxy holds very well under hydrocarbons and heat... Not under alcohol based products (glycol).
    I learned this the hard way, epoxy coated the inside of my header tank and guess what? After three months the epoxy had "vanished", the glycol in the antifreeze had dissolved it:(
    This pissed me off, because header tank corrosion is very common and was trying to avoid it. It's the third tank I've had to replace.

    Hope this helps.

    John.
     
  9. TommyA

    TommyA Formula Junior
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    John, The cause of failure was the water pump. Oil leaks all over the place I decided to take it apart and repair. Unfortunately the heads were pulled years ago while the engine was still in the vehicle. Some residual A/F was left on that cylinder and caused the damage on the liner.
     
  10. TommyA

    TommyA Formula Junior
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    Derek, I have purchased a complete reseal kit and all bearings, seals and gasket are getting replaced. No loose ends. Does the the cam oil drain hole need to be drilled?
     
  11. kcabpilot

    kcabpilot Formula Junior

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    You'll get different opinions but here's the bottom line. If you have a leaking cam seal and the source of the leak happens to be at the very bottom (or below the point of the existing drain) then drilling the new drain hole will reduce the amount of residual oil that will leak out after you have shut down and parked the car. If you don't have a leaky cam seal or if the leak is at a point above the level of the original drain then drilling the hole will do absolutely nothing. My personal choice when I had my heads off was not to bother. I did however opt to use the quad seals from Unobtainium Supply but can't report yet on weather or not they work any better than the original o-ring seals.

    Likewise with the oil drain mod, there is no actual empirical data to prove it does anything, just opinions. For every guy who did it and has no leaks there is a guy who didn't and also has no leaks.
     
  12. TommyA

    TommyA Formula Junior
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    After reading some post I believe that this holds true to the 4 valve engine.
     
  13. smg2

    smg2 F1 Veteran
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    5-8 exhaust end cam cover, almost always leaks. For yrs it drove me insane... Finally figured it out, the thin cast part warps, will not stay flat. So I had a bunch of those end caps water jetted out of 1/4" plate. Fixed the leaks.
    Currently out of the plates, probably have to get more made soon.
     
  14. TommyA

    TommyA Formula Junior
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    Oct 7, 2002
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    While taking apart the back end of the engine, I come to realize that there was no retaining clip on the throwout bearing. Looking at the parts diagram for the 82 gtsi the part is not listed. Can someone confirm please?
     

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