How many use a special wrench for their knock-off wheels?

I just pulled all four of my wheels off today. I used a 2 X 2 piece of oak and a ball pien hammer.

 

You can get a mallet with a brass head. Brass is quite soft, and shouldn't ding up the ears on the center nut. (Brass also does not produce sparks, which is important if you are doing this kind of thing around flammables!)

 

I'm cheaper than you. I use a piece of cheap lumber grade 2x4 and a ball peen hammer. I made a fancy knock-off socket for a 3/4 inch breaker bar, but didn't like it.

Tom Kizer

 

i bought a beautiful tool for this from oldtimer tools in germany> big money but worth every euro

gary
espada
8394

 

Around 2005, when I had the 330 2+2, a guy named Mike Kumor was selling a solid-bronze wrench attachment that fit over standard swept-eared Borrani knockoffs.

I bought one of these, along with a 3/4" drive torque wrench, and tried it out. All I succeeded in doing was bending part of the bronze attachment and ruining it. This gizmo is now a paperweight on my car-stuff shelf in the garage, and I gave the torque wrench to my friends at Norwood Performance.

The tried and true lead hammer is the way to go. Hendrix wire Wheels sells them; I think I paid about $12 each plus shipping.

The next project I had in mind for the 330 (before it was totaled) was to cut a round 1/8" piece of plywood that would slip over the knockoff and fit inside the wheel rim, thus shielding the spokes from missed blows.

 

I have two different adaptor/wrenches but don't use either. Even with a breaker bar the torque required is too much, and a potential slip of the wrench seems far more dangerous to bodywork (and likely) than a carefully aimed hammer.

The best tool by far is a dead-blow mallet, rubber with lead shot inside. The mechanics I know use nothing else. $9 at Harbor Freight. Save the lead hammers for concours display of your tool kit.

 

i used to hunt my own food, then came supermarkets. i used to knock off center hub nuts with a mallet, then came special tools. if all you have is a hammer then go for it, just be careful of the fender ( seen a couple of those whacked) but all we use is the correct wrench with a torque multiplier and a long knuckle bar......

 

When I had the Boxer, I bought a tool from some company in Ohio. Had a rubber coating to avoid scratching the spinners. I believe it was LightGuy here on FChat that bought it from me, you should ask him.

The few times I used it, I had no problem and was thankful I bought it. I even purchased a two ear unit and gave it to a friend in Ft. Lauderdale that repairs older Ferraris (Tim Stanford) for all of his help.

 

Yes, I have the same rubber-coated tool, came with my car. You just plug in a breaker bar to a pre-cut hole in the center, and it efficiently transfers the force from your leaning on the bar to the knock-off. When I came out to find a flat tire on my car a few weeks ago, I was very happy I had it. It worked perfectly, and I have heard WAAAAY too many stories of whacked fenders and wheels to take the chance.

Michael

 

One should not even change tyres when drunk. Best wishes, Kare

 

I have the same tool. It's works great! They set up a booth in Monterey and sold out. I spoke to the owner and he had no idea that he was going to get so much attention.

 

Damien ............since when, Please show it to me.

 

On my car off is toward the front of the car, It is surprising when you are aggravated that you have just had a flat or blowout, many owners have attempted to remove wheels by tightening them on !
Little poems don't always apply !
How many of you carry a good dependable jack in your trunk in addition to the tool being discussed ?

 

For my QM with the simple hex center wheel nuts (without ears), I bought a KD truck hub hex socket from NAPA, lined it with duct tape and use a 3/4 inch breaker bar. Works like a champ; no wacking the crap out of the tool case-supplied wrench, while running the risk of hitting the fender.

 

Lead will not mar the knock-offs...brass will. I tried brass on my TR3 wires, and it left marks on the chrome, whereas the lead didn't.

Another alternative that has worked well for me is the plastic dead blow hammers. They won't mar the knock-offs, but don't get one too small, or they won't be efficient. I'm using a two pounder and feel that's about as small as you can go.

 

I also use the tool from "oldtimer tools". It works perfectly. No more lead-hammer on the kneecap.

click here for more info:

http://www.oldtimertools.de/shop/index.php?cPath=6_15

 

I also use a piece of oak or treated pine ans wack it with the lead hammer. i figure its harder to miss the oak and hit the wheel or fender that way.

Mark

 

Good point. Last weekend I drove my car out to meet up with the guys on the Going To The Sun Rally. I packed the trunk full with battery charger, extension cord, socket set, folding creeper, gas can, spare oil, 1 spare carburetor, various lengths and diameters of hose. Everything I could use except a trolley jack, knock off hammer, and a spare tire with air in it.
Thankfully the dude from Rally support had a gas compressor, floor jack, and tools in his truck right next to me.

 

that's what we use on the Mondial

 

I had the same experience with a Thor copper hammer, never tried a deadblow hammer.

It looks like a more refined version of the bronze one I bought.

 

Ever crossed your mind why lead hammers exist in the first place? Best wishes, Kare

 

Something like this?
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Oh boy....

just hit the darn thing with a lead hammer!

 

Custom made socket with a 600 ft.lb. torque wrench.
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