How to Upgrade the 360 & 430 Clutch Block - Video

Scott,

Once again another great video, can't wait for that valve cover video.

 

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing!

Dan


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Unfortunately this just happened to me, the block cracked where the bleed screw was. I want to replace the part with the least amount of disassembly, is it possible to do this from the top of the engine bay or does the bumper absolutely have to come off? Please advise.

 

I did replace it on my F430 from the top... had to use a chair next to the car so I can lean deeper. And some rug so I don't scratch the paint. I bought the Hill eng. one and it kept leaking... I inspected my old one (second gen) and it had no cracks, it was due to the lips on the connecting bits being overtighten by someone and created crevices. I took them all out, used some 800 grit and then 1500 and 2500 grit sandpaper (to smooth out those ends) and put back my old block, tighten properly, no leaks.

 

Oh nice, I was also able to pull it out from the top. I loosened the two inlet screws, then the center bolt holding the block in then I just tilted the whole block up and loosened the Banjo connector. The old broken block is out, the bleed screw somehow snapped the block part protuding out completely. Does anyone know what the torque spec on the inlet screws and the banjo connector should be?

 

You have the old style, first version... get a newer one. The bleed screw is then on the same side as the clutch line.
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I did mine from underneath while on the Quick Jack, but this can be done from the top as well. Zero need to remove the bumper.

 

I actually called Ricambi earlier and even though that part is listed for a 360 Spider they advised against buying it for the 360. They told me that the fit is not quite right with it and to order this instead:
https://www.ricambiamerica.com/196918-block.html?srsltid=AfmBOorXVqWWA4dlNZYPBJ9h836LxYX2qlej2_K7G7HysY6ugC8imAUo

When I asked them if the one above is also upgraded they said "Yes, it's also a Hill Engineering part that's upgraded but uses the old style". I actually prefer it because it makes it far easier to bleed the clutch from the top without removing the underside.

 

For sure get the Hill version!

 

Yep, get that one for the 360.

Mike

 

Hey everyone,

I’m reaching out because I’m at my wit's end with this project. After nearly 7 hours of effort, I can’t seem to get the inlets on the clutch block (marked 1 and 2 in the attached photos) to connect properly. At this point, I’ve lost all feeling in my hands and knees from working from above the car and I’m starting to wonder if I’m doing something wrong or if there’s an issue with the part.

Here’s the situation: I’m using the Hill Engineering part I just received. If I connect the top inlet and start threading it, the bottom one pops out immediately—and vice versa. I’ve made sure both are perfectly aligned and even tried adding lubricant to help things along, but nothing seems to work.

It’s incredibly frustrating, and I’m starting to wonder if the part itself might be defective. Has anyone else dealt with this issue? Any tips or tricks to get these inlets to stay put while threading?

Thanks in advance for any advice or insight—you’d really be saving my sanity here.

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!


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I think it is challenging to do it from the top.. start threading the one that pops out first then move to the other. Definitely hard to thread due to the lines being hard.. don't screw the block to gearbox until you thread the lines in so you can move it a bit

 

Thats what I've been trying, I'll attempt again today

 

Thats what I've been trying, I'll attempt again today

 

It's a PITA to get them threaded. Iirc I pulled the lines a little forward by the fittings without the block in place so that when I put the block in place the fittings were gently pushed against the block so all I had to do was twist them.

 

I've tried that suggestion and could get the bottom one threaded but not the top one. I'm worried that it has thread damage and will attempt to restore the thread with a thread filer. Otherwise this looks like it'll be a much bigger job and I'll have to get a new clutch control line. (Image below). I spent another 3 hrs with no luck.


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The angle looks off. Gotta bend it to go in straight. If you are having that hard of a time with just that one, disconnect the other fittings and put in the top one first.

 

What he said ^^ .... If one of the lines is bent, you will never get the threads on. Try to bend that line a bit inwards. The nuts do have a bit of play on the lines, so you should be able with a bit of elbow grease thread it in a couple of rotations. Once you are convinced they are on , you can use the wrench.