Here's what a good one looks like. Image Unavailable, Please Login Somehow? in removing the entire lamp unit from it's holder in the front of the car the lower left corner broke so that a portion about 1/2" x 1/2" came off in two pieces. They can be fit back in and glued. Due to the obscuring nature of the lense the back side could get added reinforcing with additional glue and not show. But ... my experience in the past has been that clear epoxy tends to yellow badly with age. Does anyone have any suggestions such as a special type of epoxy or even something like clear Gorilla glue. This vendor says they have them but has a rather notoriously difficult reputation. Another refuses to ship to the USA. One USA vendor has what looks the same but has a different Carello part number. I've already bought what I thought were the correct lenses years ago so I'm more than a bit cautious about claimed offerings. So I thought I'd take a shot at trying to fix this one. Thanks.
If you can get the frame the lens mounts in surgically clean, you can use clear silicone (Room temperature vulcanizing) stuff.
This isn't a job for super glue? I have a hard time using that stuff and keeping the job tidy but I would think it would make the parts stick together and one could be more careful than I usually am!
Plastruct Plastic Weld Verify you have the right plastic. I’ve used it on an amber Ducati lens and a body piece that were ABS. It melts the plastic and creates a weld of sorts.
This p[lace is local to me and I think I can call them. Henkel is another company I can try. The UV resistance over time is key to a long lasting repair. If this was a yellow or orange lens I could hide the epoxy on the inside but it's clear, well sort of.
+1 on using a clear silicone sealant / adhesive (the type used for windshield mounting, etc.). Anything else ---- almost any adhesive, including super glue ---- will dry opaque (not remain clear after setting). "Plastic weld" solutions will not work here, as the lens material is most likely a polycarbonate (or a blend there of) plastic.
That's going to be quite difficult given the small size of the pieces and that bond will be flexible right? Perhaps some of that on the back side with something else along the edges of the break that dries quickly?
This is a 1970 era piece of plastic that broke in a surprising manner. I always thought polycarbonate plastics were really tough? Is it possible it could be something else? I'm not sure what that would be? Cheap Italian comes to mind ...
They are tough, but they can be brittle too especially after they age ---- depends on what other plastics have been blended in or not. It is also possible that it is acrylic. But, even if it is, you have the same problems / limitations as if it were polycarbonate ---- so, it does not matter much either way.
This may sound counter-intuitive, but Shoe Goo works very well on this application, and also for emblems. Practice first..apply with a tooth pick apply super thin layers to each edge. two or thee minutes work time, and if you have excess, use a brand new razor blade to scrape it off when it begins to gel, no later. It dries clear and last for years. whatever you decide on using...please practice first. I hope that this is of some help. Jq.
A picture of the broken pieces might be helpful Remember to click full size after you upload the attachment.
For curiosity's sake perhaps but really it's not about IF it can be glued as I know it can. It's about a glue which works with this material and whether it will remain clear. I know how silicone works.
E6000 jewellers glue. I had the inlay in one of my cufflinks come out and e6000 worked perfectly. Dries clear. Very strong.
Lots of interesting suggestions! Thanks so much. I think this might be a winner? It's not epoxy but it is rated for outdoors and is non yellowing. http://www.hillas.com/Categories/Plastic-Adhesives/3M-Scotch-Weld-Industrial-Plastic-Adhesive-4475-Clear-5-Ounce-36-per-case.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA3JrQBRBtEiwAN7cEGhrOvPA9i1BWFV2iqj93jEylb6Amj5lcI0PuYHwfrHYjS8z4j0sT5hoCpSMQAvD_BwE They also have an actual clear epoxy that's meant for exactly what I want it's just a lot more money and a lot of glue that will go bad sitting on the shelf. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotch-Weld-Epoxy-Adhesive-DP105?N=5002385+3293242301&rt=rud Here's another which I hope also wouldn't yellow? https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/permatex-flowable-silicone-windshield-glass-sealer/
I have a tube of this which I used to seal the in bumper license plate lamps because not gaskets are available and it works great for sealing. It hasn't yellowed in 6 years either. https://www.tgoldkamp.com/3m-trade-clear-auto-sealer-08551-5-fl-oz-us-tube.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAiAoqXQBRA8EiwAIIOWsvNMP6JGTQzW1rUVFd4GEOysHx_tIGamErOAXc1CMQNvFD3gRdG4VhoC1iAQAvD_BwE But it's not a strong gluing product so I'm thinking of the E6000 jewelers glue in between the pieces with a bit of build up on the back side as pass 2 then a nice crack fill on the front side with this 3M SEALER if it's needed as pass 3. Some of that other 3M epoxy product requires a substantial investment. Looks terrific though.
Well that one is not UV resistant but this one is: http://eclecticproducts.com/products/amazing-goop/amazing-goop-ii-max.html