I need to glue a clear front indicator lense | Page 2 | FerrariChat

I need to glue a clear front indicator lense

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by staatsof, Nov 8, 2017.

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  1. JP365

    JP365 Formula 3

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    #26 JP365, Nov 13, 2017
  2. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #27 staatsof, Nov 16, 2017
    I haven't tied it yet. I super cleaned the lens yesterday and now face another issue ... the screws really need replating. Arghh! I can't just replate 2 super thin screws. Finding replacements is probably going to be a PITA.
    I'll experiment with the glue before committing to it. It was only $5 whereas a new lens is more than $120 and doesn't come with screws! These lights are something of an odd ball setup on my early Espada. So I deserve no mercy! :p
     
  3. peterp

    peterp F1 Veteran

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    #28 peterp, Nov 16, 2017
    DISCLAIMER: I have never used this stuff and don't know how it would perform as a glue.

    That said, it seems like the resin that comes in windshield repair kits would dry perfectly clear, remain clear over time, and be pretty durable in the elements. How strong is it as a glue bonding agent? I don't know. You'd definitely want to test the resin "glue strength" on something else before applying it to your unobtanium part, but maybe it's food for thought.

    https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09103-Windshield-Repair-Kit/dp/B000ALJ4MY/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510844149&sr=1-4&keywords=auto+glass+repair
     
  4. peterp

    peterp F1 Veteran

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    #29 peterp, Nov 16, 2017
    For UV protection for the entire part, I would recommend 303 Aerospace protectant. It's great for plastic and it has built-in UV protection. Don't believe me? Use 303 on the plastic panel over a solar light. It will still light up, but it comes on much earlier because the sun-blocking property makes the light think it's dark long before it is actually dark, and it goes off sooner because it charges less during the day for the same reason.
     
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  5. peterp

    peterp F1 Veteran

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    #30 peterp, Nov 16, 2017
    I don't know if it's worth it for two screws, but Caswell's "brush and plate" systems are pretty good for home plating small objects. I've used their zinc and copper plating a lot and have been very happy with the results. Mostly you get one "kit" and then you can just use different plating solutions with that kit. This is the brush and plate zinc kit -> plug-n-plater-zinc-plating-kit.html

    They have a bunch of different plating solutions that work with that kit.
     
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  6. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #31 staatsof, Nov 16, 2017
    Yes, glue strength is an issue because this broke off at the corner leaving the post intact but now with a stress crack and as this is where force is applied to compress against the sealing gasket the repair has to be strong.

    Screws are another issue though ... these "appear" to be 3.5mm but not exactly. It's a smooth shank screw and the threads are larger than the shank. The threads screw though the post and then become loose. I guess I can always drill out the lens so that it performs properly. It's a Carello light but made in Germany.
     
  7. tcw

    tcw Karting

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    #32 tcw, Nov 16, 2017
    Try Tap Plastics or other company that sells plastic cement. I have had good results with that. It is a clear liquid that is very volatile and is essentially a solvent that melts the pieces together. I think they have plastic specific solvent cement.
     
  8. daytonaman

    daytonaman Formula Junior

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    #33 daytonaman, Nov 16, 2017
    Carello screws are 4 x .7 The smooth shank is an important detail as is the plastic washer under the head. If you get them chromed cover the thread with silicon hose (model airplane fuel hose) to protect the thread
     
  9. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #34 staatsof, Nov 16, 2017
    Thanks I can probably find one of those locally to see if that's case for these lights. 3.5 mm? Not a chance.

    New ones are too easy to buy to bother with plating the originals. Even if they turn out to be 3.5mm.
     
  10. Doctor Mark

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    #35 Doctor Mark, Nov 16, 2017
    I hate to be taken wrongly but for $120.00 just buy a new one. Not worth obsessing over. My good man it is a Lamborghini not a Yugo.
     
  11. Doctor Mark

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    #36 Doctor Mark, Nov 16, 2017
    McMasterCarr carries 3.5 mm screws but fully threaded so some fettling would be needed.
     
  12. peterp

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    #37 peterp, Nov 16, 2017
    I suspect it would be easy to recreate by spinning it on a lathe and using a file to remove threads for that portion (or a drill (AKA poor man's lathe) and a file).
     
  13. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #38 staatsof, Nov 17, 2017
    There's also plenty of other work to do on the fixture such as wiring, connectors, rubber boots, cleaning up the reflectors. If I was going for a 100 point car I'd have to disassemble the entire fixture and have it replated too. AFAIK l
    Light fixtures are only available for god knows how much used. The $120 is just for the lens WO screws. If it were the entire light fixture brand new then I'd probably agree with you. :)

    I think drilling the lens post holes ever so slightly will be just fine. :) I've located stainless ones in small numbers so turning them on a lathe would work. But the local machine shop would probably charge $100 for that. I don't think so ...
     
  14. daytonaman

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    #39 daytonaman, Nov 17, 2017
    seriously, why bother to ask for advice. Just do your thing the shortcut way.
     
  15. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #40 staatsof, Nov 17, 2017
    Seriously, are you a god? Do you always take all advice on forums as 100% correct. People's suggestions get challenged all the time on forums. Lighten up already. I'll report back on what I find out. I have calipers and thread pitch gauges.
    Now if you have a source for the specific screws Carello utilized that would be great.
     
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  16. daytonaman

    daytonaman Formula Junior

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    #41 daytonaman, Nov 17, 2017
    New ones are too easy to buy to bother with plating the originals.
    Really !
     
  17. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #42 staatsof, Nov 17, 2017

    Source?
     
  18. daytonaman

    daytonaman Formula Junior

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    #43 daytonaman, Nov 17, 2017
    ''I have calipers and thread pitch gauges.''
    Again. Really ?
    check and you will see I am right in my advice to you.
    can't be bothered anymore so don't reply.
     
  19. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #44 staatsof, Nov 17, 2017
    Howard you're a piece of work. Adios
     
  20. peterp

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    #45 peterp, Nov 17, 2017
    No need for a machine shop or lathe -- if you have a drill and a file, you can tape off the threads you want to keep, then chuck the pointy end of the screw into the drill, use the drill to rotate the screw at the same time you apply the file to threads in the untaped portion to recreate the original shoulder. It will take a little while to file through the threads, but if you have a Dremel you can use that instead of the file and it will take almost no time at all. Once the threads are gone, you can wrap the file with sandpaper to shape and smooth the shoulder to match the original. If you are careful, you will be able to reproduce the screw so it's almost indistinguishable from the original. The whole thing should take about 10 minutes with a file, less with a Dremel, and you will feel like an old world craftsman the whole time :). That kind of stuff is pretty satisfying to exactly duplicate by hand (at least for me), especially when you can avoid drilling a vintage part.
     
  21. racerboy9

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    #46 racerboy9, Nov 18, 2017
    If you are thinking of going the silicon route I would use this instead. Butyl rubber, not silicon. Fantastic stuff. I repair broken roof tiles with it. Shows no signs of breaking down or yellowing.

    http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/
     
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  22. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
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    #47 dm_n_stuff, Nov 18, 2017
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  23. mechaniker

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    #48 mechaniker, Nov 29, 2017
    My father is a dental technician and repaired broken lenses for ages. He used some plastic used fir prostetics (sp?) and it will last for ages. He even casted lenses, if they were prone to get demaged. They last si far 20 Years (repais and casts).

    Maybe You ask a dental laboratory ?!
     
  24. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #49 staatsof, Nov 29, 2017
    Thanks. I did at least avoid one disaster. I thought about windshield repair kits as it would seep into the cracks and become invisible. The folks at Henkel said that stuff will cause polycarbonate to fracture over time ... whew!
    They did suggest loctite 406 though. It wicks into the crack. I think I may try this to set the lens properly and then apply some sashco lexel on the backside.
     
  25. afterburner

    afterburner F1 Rookie
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    #50 afterburner, Dec 1, 2017
    MEK
     
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