Instructions for fixing a headlight switch

Hi,

I've very much enjoyed this thread and I WAS able to succesfully remove the cover from the stalk switch but unfortuantly both of the wires apeard to be solidly connected. I've also checked the fuse and the relay (the relay that is in position O is not 332015006 but is instead a different BOSCH # 0032014113) this relay was working for years so I don't think the fact that it is the wrong # is the problem but to be sure I went ahead and purchased a replacement from NAPA they said the replacment part # for 0032014113 was AR703

Anyway, this is a Mondial '85 QV and it also has a replacement fuse board that was just put in last month. A part of me is beginning to suspect the fuse board. I've tried to dissasemble the steering column (took the steering wheel off) but was not able to get any deeper other than to trace back the wires to the large connecter up under the dash. I tried to make sure this connecter was solid but was not able to pull it out and re-connect it (too tight under the dash).

The other part of the problem is that the stalk is supposed to have 3 positions (upper setting and turned on - just running lights) down one level and turned - low beams and running lights and third level turned high beams. Currently I do not have anything light wise at any of those settings. but even weirder I can force the headlights to come up and then go right back down by turning the switch just slightly in the opposit direction, the head lights go up briefly and the low beams turn on. (the stalk has to be in the middle position).

At this point I am completely stumped! I'm wondering if there still could be some sort of problem with the stalk switch since I can some how get it to respond by turning it the opposite direction.

Lastly I realize this is a 308/328 forum so if you feel I shoudl repost in the Mondial forum please advise.

thank you and regards,

Peter

 

Note: I've posted more information to a Mondial specific thread
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/382539-low-lights-dont-come-3.html#post142568143

 

Looking @ Century Spring's website, P/N B11-50 seems to match pretty closely the specs listed above.
B11-50 - COMPRESSION SPRING - Part Characteristics | Century Spring Corp.

 

Hi

My headlamp switch is working but very sensitive (very loose) , meaning I don't even need to turn the switch for the headlamp to on, it's so loose that when you turn the steering wheel and accident touch it the headlight will pop up. Any idea what's the problem ? Thanks !

 

I think you are missing the ball bearing inside the switch. I had the same issue.

Photos here:

http://26359.tumblr.com/post/67633774528/on-a-roll

Regards
David


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

David thank you so much !! Yes I think this will solve the problem....really appreciate your help !

 

My switch has a couple of issues. First, I'm missing the ball and spring which I will look into getting based on the recommendations from this thread. Second, my contacts are apart, not connected like the pictures from this thread. When I hold them together, the headlights turn on. If I let go of the contacts, headlights go off. Am I missing something? Unless these pics were taken with the headlights on, I'd say my switch is reverse of what I see on here. TIA

 

PLEASE revise the instructions per my prior post. BTW, If your switch needs more than a new ball & spring, or resoldering the contact wires, I have molds for most pieces & restore 2-3 column switches/month.

 

Someone has also used a BB to solve this problem. My issue has been to source a spring which is "most correct".

 

I bought a dozen of the 3/16" balls from a local bike shop to share with any Fchatters that may need one. Let me know if any of you need one. I'll be more than happy to put one in the mail for you. I also bought some springs that I will test out to make sure they fit before offering to you guys.

I should clarify my question regarding my switch. My soldered contacts are fine. It is the two metal plates that are not in contact. It appears to me from the pics posted here that the two plates should be in contact in the "off" position. In testing my switch, pressing the plates together turn on my headlights and leaving them separated will turn off the headlights. Are the plates supposed to be separated in the "off" position?

 

Yes

With the knob off, the contacts should be together. There is a little blade inside the knob that pushes them apart when it is in the OFF position. In the ON position the blade is crosswise to the contacts.

 

I have the same problem on my 328 88 I fixed the solder on the stalk but I still had the problem . I traced it to inside the the column I have not pulled it apart yet but when the lights react the way you are saying if I pull back or push forward slightly the lights come back on .does this sound familiar and if so do you know what to do about it

 

I assume you mean pull/push on the headlight stalk?

You need to pull the steering wheel & column switch, then observe the mechanism to see what the problem is. The mechanism is pretty much fully visable with the switch out of the column.

Send me eMAIL & I'll send you instructions for removing the switch:

[email protected]

 

I simply haven't had the time to buy (the easy part) and trial & error (the tougher part) which springs work best. If you find one that seems to fit the bill pretty well, please post.

 

Thanks, Verell. I was able to get the switch to work now, but I can't seem to reattach the collar to the switch without it falling off when I turn between on and off position. Perhaps my collar is not retentive anymore.

Owens84QV,
do you have the ball bearing? If not, I'll be happy to send one to you. I bought my spring from our local True Value hardware. They didn't have anything in a small pack that was similar in size, but they did have one in a "variety pack" of different sizes (lots of springs). I measured its length by placing it in the hole and cutting it about 2-3 mm longer the depth of the hole. I had read something about 10mm long, but it was quite a bit longer than that. Maybe I read it wrong. Anyway, I can send you a spring also if you like.

 

Take a close look at the knob retaining ring (aka collar) to see if it is cracked. If you can see a crack, then yes, that's your problem. If not then the the ring should snap into the knob & retain it.

If cracked, I have mold to cast a new retaining ring around the stalk.

 

This is why Ferrari chat and specifically the 308 forum is cats a$$. Problem to solution in 5 minutes.

My headlights don't work, oh, I"ll hit Fchat and find the fix. 10 minutes later and they were working again.

 

I have to add that this process was spot on. Over the winter my headlights quit working. As specified, my lower wire was disconnected. I soldered it back on, put the knob back and it works perfectly! My mechanic had quoted me a grand for a new switch!

 

Ball is 3/16 dai. just resoldered the loose wire, but the lights still don't come up.

 

Everything works now. Thanks FerrariChat!

 

Verell; do you happen to make the rotating part of this light switch? Is it available as a part or do I need to send you my unit to get it fit-in?

 

Hello Daniel,
I'm not sure what part you are asking about.
I make both the twist knob for the headlight stalk,
and the turn cancel ring that snaps onto the top of the switch.

A description of the symptoms & a picture would be most helpful.

 

Verell;

I don't have a good picture of my switch at the moment... but I think what I need is the twist knob, precisely. Is that part sold as a unit, or is it a kit? Do you have pictures of the parts you make?

 

The twist switch is what this thread is about.

There are basicly 3 parts to the switch (see picture):

1. The twist knob with the icons on it. It's the part you actually touch.
2. The plastic knob retaining ring. It is around the shaft & snaps into the bottom of the knob to keep it in place.
3. The contact holder - You can't see this part as it's inside the twist knob. It's molded onto the shaft & doesn't move. The contacts are riveted onto it & the knob fits over it. Most of the pictures in this thread are of the contact holder & contacts.

I can sell just the knob or retaining ring.
I can also mold a new contact holder onto your stalk & transfer your existing contacts to it. However I must have the switch (or at least the stalk) to do this.
I can also mold a new retaining ring onto your stalk without removing the contact holder. Again, I must have the stalk to do this.
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Gentlemen,

Thank you fot the shared information, i have just been able to fix the lights for a friend with a Mondial QV.
Just love the forum and the knowledge.
The green wire connection was loose, sealed bag around the lights stalk and it was an easy fix.

If I had known that the maintainability of the F-cars was this easy (mostly thanks to you guys), i would have bought one years ago. This morning I inquired about a 456 GT, let see if they are willing to sell it to me.