Left bank not firing on testaroosa

Could be as simple as you knocked the coil wire out of the left bank 7-12 coil going to the 7-12 dist or much worse , but you really need to determine which bank has the issue (far better to use a timing light, or an inexpensive spark tester, on a wire going to one of the spark plugs in each bank). The stock TR muffler co-mingles the exhaust flows, or do you have an aftermarket muffler that keeps the exhaust flows from each bank completely separate (so can reliably trace each bank to its independent exhaust tip)?

 

Your post reminded me of a similar problem Shamile had a couple years ago.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/dropped-1-6-bank-after-washing-or-sitting-in-heavy-rain.577918/

 

Hello,
I had the same problem for a long time on mine, several possible causes:
- Fuel injection pump
- Fuel pump relay
- Fuel pump fuse
- Injection calculator
- Ignition coil
- wire from the ignition coil to the distributor head
- Distributor head
Diagnosis is easy, all you have to do is exchange the components between the 2 banks.
But on my 1989 Testarossa (ke jetronic europe),I never had the problem again since I changed the relay / fuse board.
Good luck
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have a look to the connecters below/under the expansion tank

 

RM brings up a good point -- have you ever unplugged the horizontal white connectors at the bottom of the relay-fuse panel to see if the fuel pump connections are in poor condition? (My mind first went to no ignition on a bank because of your talking about having liquid in the area, but your symptom also matches no fuel on a bank.)

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My first testarossa did this. No power to left bank. Was a fuel pump relay I believe that was a cross referenced part with a Porsche 928!

Simple fix. Car hasn’t had an issue since 2014.


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Easy check is swap coils, see if problem follows the coil.

Use a timing light and see which ones are not firing.

Use a laser heat temp gun to see which exhaust pipes are cooler.

 

Swap coils, if problem moves then it’s the coil. Can get a coil from Autozone for $60 and not $400 Ferrari tax. Part number C1202

 

There are 2 fuel pumps, one for each bank.

 

Glad that you found the trouble, but I wouldn't necessarily blame the alarm/immobilizer modification. The "normal" current (9A~10A each) that each fuel pump draws when working correctly is just too high for that particular connector terminal design to withstand over time (and having them next to each other doesn't help). Ricambi America has the stock female terminals, and maybe the connector housing, too, but will probably fail again (and probably in less time/miles since the male pin on the PCB is now degraded, too). Better long term fix options (in my preference order) are to invest in:

1. Guido's (theunissenguido) "hard-wired" PCBA that uses much better (higher current capable) spade-type terminals in those locations.
2. GT Car Parts PCBA with thicker traces.
3. Scuderia Rampante's modification to the existing stock PCBA that moves the relays and bypasses those troublesome connections.

JMO, but, like the 1-piece diff carrier, this is a modification that aids resale (and still being "stock" harms resale).

 

In my (humble) experience swapping the fuel pumps for the cheap new Bosch units is a very durable option to resolve this.

The connectors burn due to high current required by old and used pumps to create the minimum fuel pressure.

 

We have these in stock here: https://www.ricambiamerica.com/12284780-e-conn-11-way.html

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For sure get a new connector! If it remains hot, you’ll quickly spot it!

Check out the gold connector kit from Scuderia Rampante as well. Might help reduce resistance/heat.

 

Jon, The video was very hard to hear, so I really did not pick up on his advise, but he seemed to talking about adding relays. Do yourself a favor and get a new motherboard. With all the labor involved, it probably will be cheaper in the long run and certainly a more elegant solution. The more stock you keep it more the reliable it will be.