348 - MAF adjustment and open loop? | FerrariChat

348 MAF adjustment and open loop?

Discussion in '348/355' started by Ferrarium, Jul 27, 2020.

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  1. Ferrarium

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    At least for a 348 with 2.7 the MAF screws are ECU trim for fuel I assume in closed loop in conjunction with the 02 sensor. I know the 02 sensor generate voltage regardless of loop mode. But when in open loop the ECU runs off a fixed table and ignores dynamic values.

    To that end:
    1) The 02 is ignored ion open loop but does the MAF screw adjustment have any effect on AF in open loop?
    2) Is the threaded plug #35 supposed to be for a wide band, seems odd as its on 1 cylinder port if so. Definitely can't use tail pipe as the muffler shares banks and there is is no other port to use.
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  2. Ferrarium

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    Threaded plug #35 definitly not for a wide band, I spun mine off with an impact and the threads are way to small more like a thermocpuple probe as it has a needle hole in a cup under the #35 plug.

    Still left with the question does the MAF screw adjustment have any effect on AF in open loop?
     
  3. Ferrarium

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  4. Wade

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    That's a great thread. I remember reading it earlier.

    Regarding this thread, I'm not clear about what you're trying to do. Just gain some more understanding?

    Also, I noticed that the digital copy of the Workshop manual doesn't go past C68. Meaning, nothing M 2.7 specific.

    Do you have the paper copy?
     
  5. Ferrarium

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    Just electronic copy, no paper copy.
    In response to what I'm trying to do, yes understanding. I was thinking of tuning idle AF and I thought about the MAF screw but then I thought it would not work in open loop since in open loop it runs of table values not dynamic values so I was looking to understand if the MAF screw had effect in open loop. So understanding of MAF screw and open loop is all. When I found that thread I realized I can unplug 02 sensor and plug in wide band and tune idle AF once warmed up. Or so I will try.
     
  6. Wade

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    Electronic of the M 2.7 section? Pages C69 through C95.

    I scanned the pages previously but their file sizes are too large for uploading here.

    If you don't have it just PM me your email address and I can send them over.
     
  7. Ferrarium

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    Yep the PDF version of the WSM stops at C68. Thanks!
    I ordered a wide band, should be here in 2 weeks or so, back logged. I'll write it up assuming the MAF screw affects open loop that I am still not certain of. We'll see
     
  8. m.stojanovic

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    The missing pages are attached (I have reduced the resolution to fit the limit here).
     
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  9. Ferrarium

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    Interesting I have never seen the "Ferrari tester adapter Motronic 2.7".
     
  10. m.stojanovic

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    The screw on the MAF has effect in open loop and no effect in closed loop. I presume you have ordered certain wide band sensor with an AFR gauge. I have a Zietronix ZT-3 with ZR-1 digital gauge (bought for my race car but still haven't used it) which also has a data logger so, after a drive, you can review on your PC the AFRs over the rpm range (https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/product/zeitronix-zt-3-plus-zr-1-afr-gauge-copy/). The disadvantage is that you would need to install additional O2 sensor bungs and buy two Zietronic kits.
     
  11. Ferrarium

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    Right, I will set the AFR at idle since closed loop has no effect on MAF resistance setting. The MAF setting is open loop which is presumably below 2K rpm and a WOT. In between is closed loop so driving with AFR reading may provide interesting information but nothing changeable noting the manual states you cannot control that as it is under ECU control. The issue is "I think" the banks need to be balanced first as the air screw affects idle AFR as well. I tried with vacuum gauges, did not work need Mercury ones. I may take it to factory dealer and have them balance banks since apparently there is a Motronic 2.7 reader they can use to do it.
     
  12. Ferrarium

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    #12 Ferrarium, Jul 28, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2020
    Since this is one time idle tuning (maybe 2 times) and not dyno or road tuning across the whole band I went with this. I'll set the power supply with alligator clips and clip to charging posts of the battery, basically use it like a portable unit. Units like the LM1 run off cigarette lighter but the displays are primitive. We'll see how it works.


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  13. chopsui

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  14. Ferrarium

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    Yes definitely saw it, thanks for the reference for others as well. I decided to use wide band instead.
     
  15. m.stojanovic

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    I am going to try a dual EGT gauge, not so much to set AFR but to synchronise the banks. Definitely not as accurate as a wide band gauge but could be good enough to equilise the banks via the CO screws on the MAFs. I will replace the thermocouple wires provided with the gauge with normal wires to plug into the gauge and with suitable Tyco connectors at their other ends to connect the left and right thermocouples. My car is non-cat so there are no issues at all if I disconnect the thermocouples from the SDL ECUs. With the O2 sensors disconnected, I'l see where the left and right EGTs are and, if different, turn one or the other CO screw until the readings equilise. The dual EGT gauge I bought:
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  16. Ferrarium

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    Interesting yes, will definitely work better than a temp gun on the cats! You said you had Zietronix ZT-3 and wide band sensor, why not use that?
     
  17. Ferrarium

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    I am assuming we can use a wide band to tune the CO screws on the MAF to match AFR to each other thereby equalize the banks at idle, at least as it relates to fuel not air using air screws.
     
  18. m.stojanovic

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    I don't think I need to use the Zietronix as my engine runs very well with very smooth idle, no issues with cold or hot starts etc. My CO screws are set at 380 Ohm and, knowing that they should not necessarily both be at this Ohm value, I am first going to check with the dual EGT and (if different) try to equalise the temperatures by turning one of the CO screws. If it does not really work (no temp response when turning the CO screws), I will just leave everything as it is.

    Something to note is the statement in the manual that "The CO content cannot be adjusted on vehicles equipped with an oxygen sensor" (Page C65). Then, it talks about disconnecting the O2 sensor but not for the purpose of adjusting the CO value, only to check the mixture auto-control function. So, it will be interesting to see what you can do with the wide band gauge. My thinking is that, when the O2 sensor is disconnected, the ECU will go into open loop but it seems that the ECU will then also use certain "failsafe" tables that are deliberately somewhat on the rich side. In this case, the wide band gauge will show AFR below the stoichiometric value and the CO screw may not have sufficient effect to bring it up to stoichiometric. And even if the screw can actually bring the AFR to stoichiometric, perhaps it is not a good idea to do this adjustment as, in the failsafe mode (O2 sensor bad), the injection system is deliberately set to go a bit richer to protect the engine.

    I think this (richer mixture with O2 sensor disconnected) should be taken into consideration and, perhaps, use the wide band only to equalise the banks and not to significantly alter whatever AFR is detected. This is also another reason why I intend to go with my dual EGT gauge - just try to equalise left and right banks.
     
  19. Ferrarium

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    #19 Ferrarium, Jul 29, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2020
    Exactly, this is why I asked the question up front, the system uses table values for open loop begging the question what does the MAF CO screw then do? Everyone says it affects open loop but I am not so sure at all.

    Regardless I will try and I will as you say equalize the banks with 383 as a reference as opposed trying to hit an AF number. But I suspect 383 is on the rich side. Who knows I may need to richen up a bank perhaps one bank is lean at 383. I am quite ok with richening up a bank to meet an AF bit not so keen to go below 370 or so. In the end I will see what it is then try to equalize them using (370-400)ish as the operating range and the numbers are the numbers once equalized using the lowest banks number as the floor. Equalizing is the key.

    btw I have never seen 383 as a setting in the manuals. I have yet to read where someones was actually 383 before they touched it.

    The flip side of fail safe rich at idle mode is it fouls plugs when idling and cold . It's also only open loop while cold once warmed only (about 300 degrees on cats) way before water or oil temp come up to normal. Once it hits 300 its closed loop which begs the question, why even bother with MAF screw if it only does something when starting and cold. Although I thinks its open loop at WOT. Its just odd...

    Marco clearly said it affects it in the thread but a guy at the end posted he tried and nothing happend. maybe did not wait for the effect to materialize its not instant. Ehh we'll see.
    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/how-to-set-the-maf-screw-accurately-on-motronic-2-5.202083/
     
  20. m.stojanovic

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    When I first checked the resistances of the pots (CO screws) on my 348's original MAFs, they were very close to around 380 Ohm (cannot remember the exact figures) but none had any significant deviation.

    A few years ago, I bought a pair of new Bosch 0 280 212 017 MAFs (Saab) which look identical to the 348's 018-s. I thought that they would work on the 348 (following some misleading info I found). The interesting thing was that the CO screws on both were set at exactly 383 Ohm (great, I thought, there is a chance that these will work). Put them on and the engine would start fine but, after a second or two, it would go into very lumpy running and die. Changing the CO screw positions did not make them work. It may be the case that all MAFs of this generation, having the CO screw, are set at 383 Ohm at the factory (base setting) so this could be how this number came up.

    With regard to the differences (electronic) between 017 and 018, I later found info showing that 017 has a different "MAF Curve" (Air Mass to Output Voltage) from that of the 018. The differences are shown in certain special Bosch codes and numbers (other than the main Bosch part number), probably related to the MAF electronics, i.e. MAF Curves, for these two MAFs:

    0 280 212 017 : Bosch Code: HLM-2-10, Bosch Number: 31 65142 73871 0

    0 280 212 018 : Bosch Code: HLM-2-19, Bosch Number: 31 65142 86584 3
     
  21. m.stojanovic

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    What I intend to do with the dual EGT gauge is connect it to the thermocouples, start cold engine and first (without attempting any balancing) just watch what's happening with the EGTs during the warm-up and see whether, when after a few minutes the engine goes into closed loop, there is any sudden change in the EGTs. I will also observe what the left-right EGT differences are prior and after the switch to closed loop. If there was any left-right EGT difference during open loop, it may be equalised after the switch to closed loop as the O2 sensors will come into play.

    If some difference remains, I will then see if I can reduce it (equalise) by turning one of the CO screws during the short period of open loop operation from cold start.

    With regard to the air screws on the TBs, they do not affect the mixture but are just to set the idle speed. Their adjustment is equivalent to moving the butterfly stop screw on one carburetor to balance it with the other. For this, you will need to monitor the vacuum in both plenums.
     
  22. Ferrarium

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    Makes sense, very similar with Wide band except waiting for closed loop, that wont happen. The EGT method may actually be better but will take longer for changes to reflect plus you can drive in closed loop and see whats happening. Its tempting to pull the cats and weld a new bung for wide band.

    I plan on trying the air screws again, mainly because the posts out here talk about blocking the IAC ports into the plenum to do this test. I can tell you if you do that the engine all but wants to die and throws a CEL. I did it, it was VERY clear that write up was a guess, as it simple does not work, block the IAC port into the plenium and listen in horror to what the engine does. The actual by the way manual has no mention of blocking ports only to stop the IAC from working presumable by unplugging them. So I will retry with what the manual says.

    It also talks about disconnecting the Compensation Solenoid Valve. I assume that clamping the hoses from the Depression tank #2 will have that effect.

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  23. m.stojanovic

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    I wouldn't bother about doing anything to the compensation valve. According to the manual (Page C18) it only opens at WOT and at rpm between 3500-5500 (meaning both criteria have to be met at the same time). No wonder my valve (butterfly) was seized when I checked it after I bought the car; probably never activated before.
     
  24. Ferrarium

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    Right I read that, I assumed at idle it was in a position that that is triggered differently when unplugging it. Like perhaps unplugging it opens it, it is odd that the manual goes out of their way to call out disconnecting it so I assume disconnecting it changed its state when the car is running. But it is a Ferrari manual so perhaps it is not needed to do so.
     
  25. Ferrarium

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