My 360 spider won’t start. Advise please

Have you checked the fuel pressure? Are you throwing any codes?

 

Sounds more like your immobilizer isnt working. Be sure your FOB is working.

Regards,
Joerg

 

Measure the battery voltage as you crank the engine. It should not be below 10 volt. If so, you have a weak battery. You'll need a multimeter with a min/max function to hold the measurement in order to perform this test.

 

Also, is this an F1 or a 6 speed?

 

Another question, how old is your battery?

If its 4 years or older its time for replacement.

 

No, each pump has its own relay. Maybe dumb, but sure you are not out of fuel?

 

At least in my (euro spec) Modena it will engage the starter and crank as long as the driver tries. However, it will not supply the fuel thus making engine not starting.

Maybe there's something going on at your immo... Hopefully not, those immobilizer problems are real PITA stuff to sort out.

 

In order to rule out fuel as an issue you need to establish if you have fuel pressures on each side.

I have a question for the experts. If only 1 fuel pump is operating has anyone ever connected a jumper hose to the other side (special hose to depress each Schrader valve).
Would be good to know in an emergency to get both banks working although in a reduced capacity

 

I've never tried connecting a jumper hose to the other side, though it can be done with some fancy setup. The problem is that the fuel pressure will drop by half. Instead of 45 psi, it'll be 23 psi per bank with the engine running rough and rich.

 

Not to hijack this thread but I was figuring that in an emergency instead of limping with only one bank you could have both but with reduced performance.
Too bad the fuel pump discharge pressures aren't enough for both banks. The single Bosch 044 pump in my 5.0, 32V V8 supports both banks up to 500+ HP.
Hose does not have to be fancy. There are adapters that depresses the Schrader valves. I have it on my Pressure gauge.

 

The ECUs expects the engine to be around 200-300 RPM when cranking before delivering fuel. This is to prevent flooding the cylinders with fuel. If the starter or battery is weak, then the engine will not fire.

 

Those ECU's are famous for failing, and since you are getting it right away I would imagine that yes, you do have that issue. What color is the "slow down" light? Was it going into limp mode?

BUT...I don't think it is related to your starting problem. Could be a fuel or ignition issue, probably something simple (comparatively), but we need more to go on here. Fuel pressure readings and a code scan, even just a cheap OBDII scan would tell a lot more about what's going on with the motor. You can have a pending code that is not made it to "active" yet since the car isn't running.

 

Glad it is fixed but what do you mean by 'lost their code'? I have had my car for 13 years and I have never had a fob do that. A cloned fob can do that but not an original because the codes for each fob are stored individually. My guess, one of the two black fobs is a clone. The red worked because it isn't a clone but that didn't fix the underlying issue that clones get out of sync. In other words, this problem will recur if you don't fix it properly and cloning isn't fixing the issue properly.