My more better GTC

looks great, I always love to view of a newly rebuild engine! I'm aways amazed that with relativey low effords ( no offense meant, purely talking about the looks) any engine can be turned into a "new" one.

 

Lovely car...but atrocious grammar. We all know the proper usage is "more betterful"!


Cheers -- thanks for sharing

 

You sent the engine to the right shop. Patrick Ottis and his staff did my engine and I cannot tell enough how happy I am with the results.

 

Thanks for the update, Steve. I'm taking notes so I can make my GTC more better too, (although not as gooder as yours!)

Jack

 

Don't do that! NEVER turn on lights, a/c, and wiper on simultaneously in a classic Ferrari.

It just brings bad luck...

 

Marvelous job, Steve.
Kudos for making the car more functional.
I wonder if you could be so kind as to provide the Part Numbers or at least more information on the alternative parts that you found to fit well?
That is:
110A Delco alternator
Sanden A/C compressor
GM a/c condensing unit
Spal fans
MB a/c fan motor

What if any bracket modifications were necessary with these changes?
Some pictures of the finished instillation would be greatly appreciated!

Beautiful car!

 

that looks and sounds great, Steve. that will make for some fantastic driving. the smartest thing I ever did on my old queen mother was upgrading the alternator and installing high-efficiency cooling fans.

 

steve, please keep the pictures coming and furthermore, please update w/ your impressions after the first drive!

the engine looks like a true jewel!!

best,

peter

 

Those mods can be reversed back to original easily if ever desired. In the meantime, you get to drive it with greater security and comfort!

 

Great stuff SCantera, love the fact you're going to be driving it. They're great cars, wonderful to drive.


Onno

 

Since you live in Florida, I think you should enter it in the "display" class at Cavallino, next year. I am sure others would like to talk to you about the modifications and being on the field will make you all the more accessible.

George

 

Looks GREAT!!! Please keep us informed about the improvements. I have a Delco alternator on 9411 but I need to change the pulley size so that it charges at idle. When stopped at a light with the A/C and lights on it is really discharging.

Regards,
Terry W. Phillips

 

Looking great, Steve. Those mods sound perfect.

I have heard of brighter (halogen?) headlamp bulbs - not sure if they require a wiring or socket upgrade to handle the amps/heat.

Don't forget to polish all the fuse block fuseholders with a little emery cloth while you are in there. Patrick mentioned once that they will also add a tiny bit of solder at the fuse block rivets in the high-amp circuits to prevent heating as things oxidize. Otherwise, things can get locally hot and meltly even in normal operation.

 

Reminds me of the comment (by Bugatti, I think)...brakes, who needs brakes!

 

Hope I'm not derailing by mentioning this, but; as the subject is modernizing this, that and the other, all in order to best protect your investment as well as enjoy as close to trouble-free driving as possible . . .

. . . as Fram burst it's um, gasket long ago, may I humbly suggest Baldwin Oil Filters?

 

Steve - don't tell me you're actually going to drive your car?
You should be ashamed!! Ferraris aren't meant to be driven (!!!!). Everyone knows that!

Kidding aside, your modifications are quite logical and will really enhance the driving enjoyment of the GTC.

I did an alternator modification to mine back in 1990, installing a GM type found at JC Whitney. It's a single wire type that required some simple bracketry to install. The output was 50 amps but it was by far better than the pathetic Lucas unit that came with the car.

Last summer, the alternator failed and I was able to find a replacement at the local CarQuest. Same housing, 80 amps and around $60.00.

Following the comment by Terry, I had similar results. Mine will just barely charge at idle but just above, it's fine. I'm a bit hesitant to change the pulley as I do not know the max allowable RPM of the alternator. Remember, it was designed for a 5,000 RPM Chevy!

Once off idle, it will handle the loads including lights, wipers and AC all at once.

The best drive belts I've found came from NAPA.

I've had my GTC since 1975 and I've never had the engine out. Beleive it or not, the old York AC works quite well and I've never had to adjust or change the (2) drive belts in well over 100,000 miles. I do have to add a can of R-12 once a year.

BUT, I really like your idea of using a modern compressor. When I hit 200,000 miles, the engine wil probably come out for a rebuild. That's when I'll install the Sanden compressor.

Since I happened to have two FIAT 124 fans on hand, I installed them with minimal fuss - they do the jod without any problem. A bit noisy but at least I know they're working.

Another mod I highly recommend - install two Bosche Blue coils. Item #0120 from International Auto Parts, $38.95 each. I've used these in many cars and never had a problem. I use a condenser from a Ford V-8 but International sells a Bosche unit (#3056) for $5.80.

The main relay that closes when you turn on the key - it was giving me fits and I finally gave up and intalled a Bosche relay. Still going strong after 25 years.

Finally, here's one I plan for the near future. I will replace the archaic fuse blocks with a more modern version with plug-in fuses as shown. I'm really tired of having to lift the hood and "roll' the fuses when I lose an electrical function. Yes, I've cleaned all the contact surfaces and soldered the rivetted joints but they're still a pain. It's quite possible that when driving in the rain, water splashes up and around the fuse block and causes corrosion.

Here are pictures of the replacement blocks I plan to install. Note that they have an O-ring seal to keep out moisture. I will adapt the original covers to fit.

Bob Z.
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BobZ: Before you pull the old fuse block consider two bits of work that might solve the problem: 1) with a Dremel tool and its small brass brush, polish all the spade connects and the "sockets" for all the fuse ends 2) toss all the lead/ceramic fuses and replace them with modern Buss glass pointy end replacements from NAPA (I think they are GRCs). Nothing made such and improvemet to my 330s drivability for so little effort and expense. M

 

Bob,

Where did you source the 8 position replacement fuse box?

Thanks,
Greg

 

Something else to add to that process:
Stabilant 22 is a polymer contact enhancement material that helps maintain the integrity of the contact area between connectors. I was introduced to it while building a special Audi project ten year ago; it is recommended by VW for making electrical repairs. It's difficult to prove the difference it makes, and other than the VW/Audi tech paper I saw, I haven't heard of it used much in the automotive world. However it seems to have widespread use in electronics applications.

Since the point of the 330GTC I bought is it's extraordinary originality, I'm going to work hard to make the most of the original systems. But listening carefully to all this!

 

Great advice on preserving the original fuses and block - THANKS!!
That will save me a lot of time.
I did not know that the glass fuses were still available.

Greg - go here: <terminalsupplyco.com> Part #ATO-FB8

Excellent people to deal with. If you call, talk to Chelsea. She's knowledgeable and very helpful.

Bob Z.