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Need some help - what is this on my 328?

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by battman, Feb 29, 2004.

  1. battman

    battman Karting

    Dec 1, 2003
    68
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Batt
    Ok Gang - first time loading pics, so I hope they make it.

    I bought my '86 328 in Jan, and drove it 1000 miles home right the next day. The last major was about 18 months ago...otherwise, I think the car has been sitting A LOT since...and I know it has since I bought it. But spring is finally coming to WI and I have my first 328 Oil and Trans change under my belt. BTW - Redline 75W90NS made a noticable shifting difference and elim the need to warm up prior to using 2nd gear.

    So...during my first work under the car (and noticable on my garage floor) I have some oil leaks...however, they seem to be lessening now that I'm regularly driving the car (last couple of weeks)...so I'm hopeful that regular use is helping me out. Additionally, new crush rings (including where the previous owner used 2 at the same time for the oil plug) are installed, so that could be helping too...But on to the questions:

    1) Does anyone know the proper torque for the trans plug/oil plug/clutch drain bolt/trans fill plug? I went with 25ft lbs?

    2) One of the pics is looking up at the drivers side of the rear bank. Those who know these engines will recognize what looks to be a leak around the bottom of the distributor cover (I think). I found an article from Carl Rose that describes a fix for this...it doesn't sound too bad, but any additional tips? And here's my real question: I assume the area to the distrib is the end of the Cam? (Which looks leak free on this bank...but) On my front bank (driver's side), I have what looks to be a leak from the cam area. Is this the dreaded cam leak that I've read about? Anyone know of any good write ups (with pics) for fixing this?

    3) Pic 2: I'm sure you guys recognize the back of the motor drain pan. Just above it and towards the front of the car is what looks like a CV boot around something? Is this some type of stick shaft seal? Anyway, if you look at the pic, mine is either leaking (if it seals anything) or is just covered with oil from a higher leak. Regardless, my "cv boot" is ripped...what's this called and how do I replace it?

    Lastly, and this is just to eliminate some of my ignorance about my new toy...what is the red 2" diam tube to the left of the "cv boot"? Is it supposed to be just draining into the street?

    Thanks as always! This forum is amazing... Battman
     
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  3. battman

    battman Karting

    Dec 1, 2003
    68
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Batt
    Whoops...those aren't the right pics...

    nice totally fuzzy pic of my garage though....the fuzzy thing on the left is my '95 BMW M3 (daily driver)...

    Try these pics...
     
  4. battman

    battman Karting

    Dec 1, 2003
    68
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Batt
    I feel like I should post a non fuzzy pic of the garage...I'll figure this pic thing out eventually!

    It's not a great pic, but better than the 1st one :)...

    Additionally here's a shot of my driveway and a decent shot of the 328. Also visible is my Jeep that lost it's garage spot when the 328 showed up...poor Jeep...

    Thanks all...Battman
     
  5. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
    Professional Ferrari Technician Consultant Owner

    Dec 26, 2001
    13,694
    Canada
    Full Name:
    Newman
    The pic of the oil pan has the dreaded shifter shaft o ring leak. The boot keeps the dust and crap off the shaft to protect the poorly designed seal. The shaft runs through the oil pan into the gearbox behind it. There are 2 o rings. One to keep the oil from leaking outside like yours and the other between the gearbox and engine oil sump to prevent the fluids from mixing. Ive heard different stories on repairing this. Its difficult in the car to fix it and there is a better designed dual lip seal that can be installed to replace the o ring.
     
  6. pma1010

    pma1010 F1 Rookie

    Jul 21, 2002
    2,559
    Chicago
    Full Name:
    Philip
    Looks like distrib is not sealing.
    Gator is on shift shaft where it enters the pan. Not a seal per se (although that's in there too). If it leaks then you'll need to replace the shift shaft seals (it has been written up in the archives). I'd wipe it all down and check the condition of the gator. Replacement of the gator is easy enough (just disconnect the linkage near the pan, ease the old gator off, ease the new one on. The pan end of the gator is held in place with a circlip -- the inner of the gator has a lip which needs to be levered up and over the clip to keep it in place
    2" drain, no idea, sorry. Some years of the cars do have a supplemental cooling duct to the differential from the air snorkel.
     
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  8. carlrose

    carlrose Formula Junior

    Nov 25, 2003
    304
    Hi Jeff,

    1. Replacing distributor shaft seal isn't that difficult - only imperative that new one go stright over shaft & circumferential spring in seal lip doesn't roll out. Apparently at one time there was a factory tool specifically for this purpose, but I found a large socket worked fine.

    In the 1989 Technical Specifications manual (on CD I sent) under Service Bulletins #10-18 lists updated seal design from USA chassis #69639. I purchase mine from McCann's for about $24; you also need a new distributor cap seal (about $4) and I have some extra rotor screws (6/7mm hex head) to replace the ones you drop during disassembly.

    2. Shifter seal has been correctly identified. Mine isn't leaking, so I shall endeavor Not To Fix What Isn't Broken...

    3. Red ducting leading downwards is from the alternator - harness attachments are covered by a second aluminum "shell" and this is the rear vent for the alternator.

    Glad to see you're diving into the car. Hey, drop me a line at carlrosemd@hotmail.com & we can talk over #1 via phone. Did you paint the valve covers red (in picture?) Love the 328 in black...

    :)
     
  9. battman

    battman Karting

    Dec 1, 2003
    68
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Batt
    Hey Carl,

    Here's a pic of my engine...I hate to admit this, but I thought all 328's had red valve covers? And I really hate to admit that I was searching the archives today and made a mental note to myself about a very clean looking silver valve cover on an '86 328 thinking: I need to work on that...

    Now no making fun of my 'badly needing detailing' engine bay...the good news is the car saw over a hundred miles this weekend, and for the first time, with the top off...

    Thanks to everyone for the comments/replies...

    Battman
     
  10. battman

    battman Karting

    Dec 1, 2003
    68
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Batt
    2nd try...
     
  11. Mark 328

    Mark 328 Formula Junior

    Nov 6, 2003
    510
    Orange, Ca
    Full Name:
    Mark Foley
    #9 Mark 328, Feb 29, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi Jeff:
    Glad to hear you are working on the car; it is not an easy car to work on but it is enjoyable.
    I too have a black 328 and a white '97 BMW 328 for my daily driver. I think there is a picture on my profile.

    For the distributor seal, I've heard that many have had trouble putting the seals on. It is very easy to damage these seals during installation. When I did mine I used .002" shim stock to ease the seal on then once on, the shim stock was pulled out.

    Mark
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  13. carlrose

    carlrose Formula Junior

    Nov 25, 2003
    304
    Hey Jeff,

    No apologies - you actually *use* your car!

    Other things - note the hose running across the fuel lines (right rear of picture): suspect this leads from WUR to underside of throttle body, right? This one is supposed to run underneath the intake plenum and up to throttle body.

    :) Carl
     
  14. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    Hi Carl! :)

    My shifter shaft leaks a little (only leak I have). My mechanic said it's no big deal, so don't worry about fixing it unless it gets worse. He quoted me about $500 to fix, so I don't sweat it.

    When you get the major on your engine, see if you can get that red paint sandblasted off!!
     
  15. battman

    battman Karting

    Dec 1, 2003
    68
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Batt
    I'm actually not sure if the shaft seal is leaking...there is a lot of oil running around at the moment and it might be from above...but I'll clean it off and find out...

    Hey Slag - you don't like the red valve covers, huh? My vote's not in yet, but I am sure that I dislike the texture on them...hard to see in the pic, but they are anything BUT smooth.

    Anyone know if this is a common thing or something weird a previous owner did?

    Hey Carl - I think I see the hose you are referring to and the routing that should be followed...pardon my ignorance, but what is WUR?

    Hey Mark 328 - nice Bimmer! Is it stock? I've added a Dinan TB, intake & chip - and I had a cat back exhaust, but I got rid of it (hated the sound). I don't think I'll be modifying the 328 though :) Don't think I really want to...

    Thanks again to all...Battman...

    PS -
     
  16. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    I heard the leak is pretty common. I am no mechanic, so I can only pass on what I was told....

    Yah, I'm not digging the red valve covers. Just not used to seeing it, so it startles me, lol. Kind of like when I see the door speakers over the carpet, instead of under it - Just doesn't look right, although I am willing to bet it sounds 100% better. The paint is probably crinkle paint, so that is why it's not smooth - Same paint that is used on the phlenum (did I butcher that spelling??). Definitely something a prior owner did.
     
  17. CarlH

    CarlH Karting

    Feb 5, 2004
    81
    MD
    Full Name:
    Carl H.
    Driving a white 95 325 for my daily use and white 83 308 for the weekend. Good combination fellows! As for the engin detail.....beats mine by about 4 cans of gunk and a repainted manifold. I do have aluminum colored (under the crud) valve covers. Bought the car with body in very excellant shape, but the engine grime......my next project.
     
  18. 328Matt

    328Matt Karting

    Dec 3, 2003
    222
    Lymm,Cheshire
    Full Name:
    Matt
    The engine reminds me of the ferrari engined lancia thema (the 8.32)-any thoughts?
     
  19. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Jan 21, 2004
    1,754
    Argent/Brasil
    Full Name:
    Guido
    #16 theunissenguido, Mar 3, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    [
    3) Pic 2: I'm sure you guys recognize the back of the motor drain pan. Just above it and towards the front of the car is what looks like a CV boot around something? Is this some type of stick shaft seal? Anyway, if you look at the pic, mine is either leaking (if it seals anything) or is just covered with oil from a higher leak. Regardless, my "cv boot" is ripped...what's this called and how do I replace it?

    replacement of the 2 seals shaft :
    Take of the oilpans of engine and gearbox. Take the shaft of.
    -oil seals for 3,0 QV number 115372 cost 7,90 £ each ;
    -metal ring (use the old one or find the same sice).
    The metal ring is secured the oilseal lby 3 points made in the alloy surrending of the hole.You have to take the alloy material away or retap the alloy so the metal ring comes out. Once the metal ring is out the seal comes out easely. Replace the oilseal and replace the metal ring. Secure the metal ring again with 3 securing points made of the alloy around the ring.You can make new point in stead of using the old onces. Make shure the metal ring give a little bit of pressure against the seal.
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  20. carlrose

    carlrose Formula Junior

    Nov 25, 2003
    304
    Hi again Jeff,

    The WUR/control pressure regulator is a little aluminum "box-like" structure located on right side of engine. Follow the fuel pipe from the center of the fuel distributor (black octagonal device next to airbox) and it will lead to WUR. The vacuum line runs from the back of the WUR (you'll see the vertical nipple) under the intake plenum and up into the throttle body nipple (vertical). Suspect this is where it arises/terminates now, just runs under plenum. Really only a cosmetic detail, as long as it doesn't drop near the exhaust shoul work fine.

    (two Carls on this thread..goodness- what are the chances of that? except this one (smile) drives a Toyota daily...!)

    :) Carl
     

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