New Clutch Recommendations (Kevlar/Upgrade?)

I replaced the original clutch in my 83 QV at 54k, now have 71K with an original replacement. I love the feel of the 308 clutch, it's light and simple to engage. For me, I would not stray from original.

 

I put about 300 miles on a GTBi that had a Kevlar clutch this past winter. I loved it.

I actually didn't even know it was Kevlar until much later when I was talking to the shop about it and how much I enjoyed the feel.

 

No real opinion about the clutch materials itself.

But, I would stay with a stock pressure plate, as to change that will totally increase the heaviness of the peddle.

Race motors need racing clutches!

 

AP Racing is just the name of the company. Do not be taken in by that. They make all the 308 clutches.


The heavy duty clutch being sold is just a Daytona clutch. It will not last one mile longer or work better in any way but you will get tired of the heavy clutch pedal. Great way to **** up a perfectly good car.

Clutch being a weak link? What idiot said that?


Stock clutches routinely go 75,000 or more miles. What are you trying to improve?

My own 328 had an old clutch in it of unknown age. When I rebuilt the motor I reinstalled it. I expect it will still be there after I can no longer drive. I have no idea why I would need to do it differently.

 

I saw no record of mine being replaced in the records when I bought it. The owner at the time was John Apen and it was FAF that sold it new so he had a nice thick stack of paperwork on it.

I finally replaced it at about 110,000 miles so I know it had AT LEAST 60,000+ miles on it because John never replaced it when he had it. It didn't "need " it but I had in over in Atlanta for something else and I thought why not? May as well because its time is coming. Has to be.

It still looked great, in fact it is hanging on a nail on my garage wall. It could very well be the original part.

Pretty amazing to me

 

Exactly. People speak as if there is some shortcoming in the clutch. It is a very good part.

 

I did the Kevlar, it's been great.

 

Justin, Talk to Jack they will take care of you.

NJB Automotive, Exceptional Ferrari Service and detailing in Ohio

 

Reviving an old thread but curious if any others have used the kevlar clutch disk from Superformance (or elsewhere.) My original Borg & Beck pressure plate looks go good after a good clean and the car only has 58k kms (36k miles) so I'm thinking of using it since they seem to last so well. The cost of the new AP pressure plate is minimal but the original B&B with 36k miles may be better.
The disk was near the limit so I'll change it and the T/O bearing. Thanks for your input.

 

Unless you're Barny Olfield, use a clutch assembly with OEM Specs. Just no reason to sway. You wanted a 308/328/GT4 didn't you? Then dance with the one that brung ya! Kevlar...Smevlar! Won't make a difference in this application. it's like, "What oil should I use? Just put the right weight in and drive it!

 

Dr. Tommy speaks highly of the kevlar disk above and if a few people like the feel then I'd rather have the smoother, more durable (typically) kevlar disk.

 

I relined my clutch with Kevlar over three years ago and have put 8K on my 308 since then. It engages smoothly, does not grab and feels fine. I chose kevlar due to its heat resistance and durability.

I contacted HR Clutch, sent them the specs for the original thickness and mailed off my clutch and pressure plate. Everything came back in perfect order. The cost was comparable to a regular clutch at the time. The kevlar material is labeled as Cluchtex by Tribco.

Here are the links:

New and Remanufactured Clutches for Foreign and Domestic Cars - HR Clutches, Inc.

Tribco Inc. - Home of Clutchtex and Braketex, the first 100% KEVLAR fibered textile composite friction materials.
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Thanks Joe!

 

Marketing at work! Many "upgrades" fix a problem that does not exist.

Is it a street car? Use the oem clutch; it's a better choice for that purpose in every way. Smoother engagement, long life, no break-in necessary, if overheated/slipping, which is unlikely to happen on the street but might on the track, it will return to normal when it cools.

Is it a race car? Install a Kevlar clutch. It will handle high horsepower loads/track use without slipping. BUT, its engagement is harsher and if it is overheated, it will NOT return to normal. Also, 500+ mile break-in commonly necessary per the manufacturer.

Really, for driving these cars as produced for street use, there are only disadvantages to using a Kevlar clutch disc.

Also...for efficient clutch operation/life, a clutch disc and pressure plate are replaced together and the flywheel is machine-surfaced. Just replacing a clutch disc is doing 1/3 of a job. Under the same driving conditions, just replacing the disc will not provide the same level of "grip" or clutch life that the OEM did. All the associated surfaces must be returned to "like new."

 

Thanks for the input Mike. I had already planned to have the flywheel and PP de-glazed and was wondering more whether my very good condition B&B pressure plate is better than a new AP? Cost difference is minimal.

My local clutch shop offers a stage 2 disk with segmented kevlar facing the pressure plate side and organic on the flywheel side. That might be a nice compromise as I might do the occasional track day in the UK. They will check the PP clamping force. Does anyone know the standard force (the manual only gives pedal force?)

 

quick search and I found this "The diaphragm requires ~52lbs to release. The pedal effort is ~35lbs." (thanks Scott)

 

One US supplier warned me off the European kevlar disks saying they have a high failure rate. Has anyone had this experience or is it just sour grapes as the prices are half.

 

I always considered them as a fix for which there was no problem. I have never installed one but I have removed a few for people who were dissatisfied. When I rebuilt my engine and did all the modifications and the 3.5 liter bore and stroke job I put the old half worn clutch of unknown history back in. I expect it to be there after I am too old to drive so saw no reason to replace it.

Because of the friction coefficient F1 cars really don't like them.


Deglazed? Your pressure plate and flywheel need to be flat, screw deglazing.

 

Reading this makes me wonder if that GTBi I drove and liked really had Kevlar.

I was just told that but it didn't grab hard and abruptly like they apparently do. Maybe it was just a sales pitch to me since I was looking to buy the car.