Hello all, I have no spark on cylinder 6 and 8. Mondial 83 European Version. Is there an logical fault that can cause this? (2 cilinders, 6 and 8, no spark). Before I change the spark plug cables, rotor and distributorcap and perhaps the TDC sensor I like to hear of someone recognize this and perhaps know the solution.
How old are the plug wires ? Pull the distributor cap, and check the resistance of the wires. Put one meter lead on the electrode in the cap, and the other meter lead on the spark plug connector of the corresponding wire. A bad wire will read open circuit. That's the first thing I would check.
The plug wires don't have the typical connectors in the dist cap. There is a screw that pierces the wire, and creates the necessary contact within the cap. It means to test a wire you really have to take the cap off. Sometimes the wire can pull out a bit and lose the connection. Was there any service done on the car that would have disturbed or pulled at the ignition wires? There are also the plug extenders that are regular failure items, you might switch a couple of known good ones and see what happens. You can sometimes see signs of arcing and black marks on the extender, but but sometimes they look fine but are not. This would be the first thing to check as it is simple. Also check the relevant plugs to make sure they are not seriously worn or fouled. My bet is there are corrosion/arc deposits inside the distributor cap contacts for the cylinders in question, and the rotor is not able to make the circuit. Might just need to clean off the deposits rather then replace the whole cap.
Yes, bad wires. And oil in the distributorcap. More work to do to make it good. Thanks for the advise.
I used the Superformance caps/rotors/extenders. The caps needed to be drilled out a bit, but other than that they are nice parts. For wires a got a universal set from the American aftermarket parts company Accel. These fit in the original red sheaths. There are lots of different wires out there you can use. The OEM parts from Ferrari are uber expensive as usual. But if you want to stay OEM that's probably the easier way to do it.
Oil seal inside cap : I strugled several times to stop that seal leak. The final touch whas sanding the shaft with very fine sandpaper before putting a new seal. That maked it work. Guido
Other Question: on the timing belt side I have also an oil lekkage. I order the oil seal for that but, Is it possible to change the oil seal on that side Without removing the valve cover? (Can I do it from outside?)
I'm pretty sure you will have to remove the cam box cover. Also, the seals alone may not stop the leaking. There are a few different methods that could possibly be used. 1. Put a dollop of silicone gasket sealer at the juncture between the cam box, and cam box cover (this is where it leaks). This is my favored method. There are mechanics who are against using silicone, because they think it will clog the oil passages. Never seen that happen myself, and I've used it a lot to seal oil, and water. 2. Use square "O" rings. This is an interesting idea, but I've never tried them. 3. True the surfaces. Warpage could be causing leaks, but not something I would do. 4. It's normal for a Ferrari to leak oil. I guess you can allow the oil leak if you want to, but it might drip onto the exhaust system and start a fire. The forward bank will leak onto the exhaust system.
Thanks for reply. I was afraid of that. I analyse it further when I change the belts over a couple of weeks. I saw also a YouTube film where they removed the hole camshaft (including valve adjustment job). Perhaps its better to accept a small oilleak as you describes temporarily and repair it later with “bigger service”.
The leak at the front is probably not the actual camshaft oil seal, it will be the O ring around the housing that the seal sits in. There are several threads on this over in the 308/328 section. For the leak at the distributor , it is very easy to turn the lip seal inside out when you install the plate & seal over the end of the camshaft - and then it will leak. I have found that making a tube from some thin plastic and then placing that over the end of the cam first before sliding the seal on over it makes the installation much easier and the seal will not get turned. (Cut up a 2 litre plastic coke bottle or similar)
Engine runs perfect again after replacement of complete set of sparkingplug cables, distributercaps and rotors. Oil leak is also repaired. Thanks for the tips. I go now further with the distributor belts.
