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Oil Change Details...

Discussion in '360/430' started by shifter, Jan 13, 2020.

  1. shifter

    shifter Formula Junior

    Apr 8, 2004
    353
    Danville, Ca
    Full Name:
    Joe
    So I thought... changing the oil would be straightforward, take a few minutes, and head out for a nice drive... but I seem to find fun challenges in most everything I do. Keeps me on my toes I guess.

    First, 2 of the screws holding the Gearbox Housing Flange were stripped from the previous servicing dealer. I was able to carefully get them out, took a while though and ordered new ones. Then I noticed they used a sealer on the 4 screws and flange itself. Is this recommended when I re-assemble? Obviously it's not in the manual.

    Any suggestions on best way to get the flange off without damaging anything? The sealer is making it a little more difficult. Though my screen is clean (looking up with a light) and everything was leak/weep free, I thought about replacing the o-rings and screen as preventative maintenance (and my Oil change kit came with the parts to do it).

    TIA
     
  2. Some Guy in the sky

    Sep 19, 2018
    55
    I don't have any answers to your questions, I just want to add that I just did my oil and it had the sealer in the same place.
     
  3. Aeroman

    Aeroman Karting

    Nov 8, 2013
    93
    DFW Texas
    I have the same problem with sealant. When I do my oil change next month, I'm going to try removing the 4 counter-sunk hex screws then use a length of very thin steel wire (think thin guitar string) wrapped around a couple of bolts to grip in each hand and carefully cut the sealant with the wire. Also I have an assortment of plastic "chisels" that I will also try to get the sealant loose. I don't think I'll reapply new sealant as there is an O-ring on the housing.

    Don't know that this will work, but I'm going to try it.
     
  4. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 Rookie
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    Jul 8, 2016
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    Maybe I'm missing something here but I just did my oil and gearbox fluid change a few months back and didn't have any of the issues, 2 drain plugs for the oil, one for the gearbox,then "attempt to" pull the filter, removing 1 bolt, used the WSM procedure....what 4 screws? Are you talking abut the plate on the bottom? What was the purpose in removing that?
     
  5. LorenzoR

    LorenzoR Formula 3
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    Sep 26, 2015
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    Sarasota Fl
    Inside that plate is a screened filter. I think theres another thread about it on here
     
  6. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 Rookie
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    Only filter I'm aware of is #32 in the diagram. Where is the other one?
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  7. LorenzoR

    LorenzoR Formula 3
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    Sep 26, 2015
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    Its for engine not gearbox. i cant find the pic of it
     
  8. Flea7

    Flea7 Formula Junior
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    Feb 25, 2010
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  9. LorenzoR

    LorenzoR Formula 3
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    Sep 26, 2015
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    yep thats it,,,i dont know why they show it that way. And when i looked in Eurospares site i couldnt find that diagram but glad you showed it either way.
     
  10. Flea7

    Flea7 Formula Junior
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    Feb 25, 2010
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    I don't know where Matt got his diagram. It is different than what is on Eurospares. For example, his shows a plate cover for the clutch opening...#16 , which I didn't think there was a cover? I don't have one on my car.
     
  11. shifter

    shifter Formula Junior

    Apr 8, 2004
    353
    Danville, Ca
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    Joe
    Following the procedure, after draining both front and rear, you remove the 4 flat head screws (careful - soft and a poor design) and pry off the flange. There are o-rings to replace (if needed) and the screen that should be cleaned.

    Getting that flange off with sealant on it isn’t easy (assuming you want to avoid potential damage by wedging a screwdriver underneath for leverage). I’m going to try a method a friend had success with this weekend.

    I plan to use sealant when I reassemble, as it seems that’s the way it comes from the factory and how the Ferrari servicing dealership on my car did it - probably to hedge against the flange o-ring leaking. If I’m not mistaken, I can see traces of the sealant in the Work Shop Manual pics on the flange mating surfaces, even though they don’t mention it.

    If that o-ring does its job, we shouldn’t need sealant, it’s redundant.

    Joe


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  12. LorenzoR

    LorenzoR Formula 3
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    So whats the method your friend used to get it off
     
  13. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 Rookie
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    Directly linked from ricambi.....that’s a 360, although it just occurred to me that the car we are talking about wasn’t referenced unless I missed it, so we may be talking about 2 different cars.
     
  14. Flea7

    Flea7 Formula Junior
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    Gotcha...that makes sense.


    When inspecting or changing the fluids or parts on my car, I make sure that I have replacements available if needed. The oil screen/filter that we're talking about is no exception.....be prepared..:cool:

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  15. shifter

    shifter Formula Junior

    Apr 8, 2004
    353
    Danville, Ca
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    Joe
    Yes, I’m that way too. Prevent problems, not just fix when broke.




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  16. shifter

    shifter Formula Junior

    Apr 8, 2004
    353
    Danville, Ca
    Full Name:
    Joe
    He used a thin metal putty knife to break some of the sealant, then used a small slide hammer (dent puller) that fit through the large drain plug hole and has a metal hook on one end, and rotated it around with gentle taps. He said it worked perfect.
     
  17. LorenzoR

    LorenzoR Formula 3
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    Sep 26, 2015
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    Okay thank you that's good to know. As soon as you said a metal putty knife I immediately thought of some type of razor blade to go around the outside edge and get in as far as you can. But then again that kind of Blade might be too thin and break off. Think I agree the putty knife is the best option to start out with and if you're able to get it in a little bit then maybe you can use a razor blade from there. This part were talking about is basically a flange. So I have to wonder how wide is the flange itself. From the looks of it about an inch
     
  18. shifter

    shifter Formula Junior

    Apr 8, 2004
    353
    Danville, Ca
    Full Name:
    Joe
    To close this, was able to get the flange off quite easily once I examined it. Looking at the flange from the passenger side there is a perfect spot to put a flat head and tap. See pic. The flange protrudes the trans housing about a mm here:

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    Getting the screen retainer ring off was fun. After many tries with a flat head screwdriver as the manual suggests, I tried 2 picks and it worked like a charm. One pick held one end, the other 90 degree one went under and lifted the ring from the groove.

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    Glad I followed through, looks like my screen was quite old. Clean, but old.

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    New assembly went in easily.

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    I did add a very thin layer of Threebond 1211 to seal it like it was as I found it. Thinking it would be good to have a secondary seal.




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