I have an '82 Mondial 8. 32k miles. Was sitting for 10 years. Working now. Initially, when I got it running I regularly saw 80-85 PSI oil. Now after a few hundred miles of usage, its gotten lower. I had pressure tested with an external gauge and it was 40ish at idle and 70ish at speed. The console gauge matched more or less. Now, its even lower, around 10-20 PSI at idle when warm (red light does not come on). At speed when warm, I cannot pass 45 PSI. For 2k-5k, its under 45 PSI usually. At 6-7k RPM still around 45 PSI. Oil temp is 200F. When car is cold, pressure is slightly more, like idles at 45 PSI, but maybe hits 50-55 PSI at speed. I had 15w-50 oil. I tried Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Now just put 10w-60 oil. Nothing of this made much difference. I removed/inspected/cleaned the oil pressure relief valve (which shouldn't have anything to do with this, but just in case). Maybe the gauge went slowly bad, not sure. I will get a new pressure sender just in case. *** But, what else? Is changing rod bearings the next step? If I remove the oil pan, are they easily replaced? Thoughts?!?!?!?
So, one approach is an engine inspection to see where the pressure loss is occurring - assuming that all else is correct. I think you might do a few more checks first. What rate of oil are you using, ie how much being consumed. There is the crank/vent case adjuster - if you have not used this then you could mark it and try incremental steps to see what makes any difference. I know you have ‘loss’, but I would still look at the pipe work and check it is all intact and fitted correctly - no sign of leaks, etc. There’s not too much on the 8. Have you (ever) has the car dyno’d? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks! My oil now is 10w-60, was 15w-50. I do not see any noticeable oil consumption, nor any leaks (there is some around the oil pan seal -- I just tighted to nuts to see if it helps, but nothing drips down. I could do a compression test, but even if the rings are "bad", that would could oil consumption and not enough to notice lower oil pressure... Where/what is the crank/vent case adjuster?
So it’s detailed in the manual, along with expected oil temps and pressures. (At least it is for the Q.V.) I am conscious if the obvious, but have you recently flushed and refilled, checked the quality of the old oil (keep it and send it off for a sample test). Replaced the oil filter, cleaned the sender units.... If you have correct levels, all pipes are snug fitted and no holes that open when running, no significant consumption, no sign of oil burning, and the system is flowing (too well) then that sounds like a lot of wear?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In fairness, my money would be on the sender unit being the culprit - I would look to verify (replace) that first, perhaps as part of a flush and change. A few of us had an instant engine rebuild effect by doing that!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oil just flushed. It looked good but a bit darker than I would expect, given that it only had a few hundred miles on it (synthetic). Sending unit was removed, to measure with external gauge (my mechanic did that, I was out of town). Most likely at least a minimal cleaning. At that time, that sending unit and the mechanical gauge more or less coincided (but then the car reads 85 PSI at speed as per my gauge). I have the manual which indicates it is for the Mondial 8 and the QV. I am still not sure what you mean my crank case/vent adjuster? There is the oil pressure relief valve (OPRV) and indicates something about it able to alter the oil pressure...its not clear how. My OPRV has one shim in it. The picture seems to imply something different happens with different number of shims? but shouldn't that alter the 'MAX PSI' and not a low PSI? Yes, I will order a new sending unit... If engine wear, what then? rod bearings?
So I’d maybe look at doing.... Inspect and replace filter, double check that they fitted the right right one, right. Old/damaged/clogged filters can really drop pressure. Sender unit, trying to think if it’s just the one by the oil filter. Sure the other is the thermistor down by the tube and the transmitter. The crankcase adjuster is on the side - it operates a small internal piston - look at the parts diagrams (Eurospares.co.uk have them for the 8 as do Ricambi and Maranello). I would suggest go easy on that in case your sender/filter/blow by system are the culprits. Not sure if we are describing the same thing... Plenty of folks here use synthetics, I found some pressure benefits with semi, but not to the degree you describe. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
In terms of wear - oil pump issue(s), and /or crank bearings and camshaft bearings. Obviously these sound like big jobs, and I don’t think your symptoms are saying they are definitely the case yet. More a question that if you did go down that route, what else is it a good time to have done as the engine will be out. But I wouldn’t be too worried about that just yet (easy to say). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
There are seals and a filter in the oil pump assembly. See 73 and 74 in the diagram. You are probably going to have to take this assembly apart, and inspect the various parts. http://www.allferrariparts.com/tbl13867.html
Since you recently recommissioned this one, I would do an oil change using only the correct weight oil and correct filter...aka UFI or a Baldwin. Then see what you got. My bet would be on a defective/incorrect filter, or the sender failing. When senders fail, they do read low. The red light is a different sender...and if that was on as well at idle, then we might have an issue of far more significance. If the correct filter is on it, my money would be on the sender. If I remember right, its on the filter housing base.
Thanks all! I changed oil just recently but not the Baldwin filter...just ordered another one. Do you know which oil pressure sending unit is in the 1982 Mondial 8 -- is it the 16x1.5mm or the 18x1.5mm (Ferrari Part #122592) one ... Ricambia sells both. They seem to indicate it is the 18x15.mm but say something like "compare to X" and X is the 16x1.5mm one?
Thanks all! It was the sender....changed and now all good. Idles around 45 and when RPMs are going its nearly at 85. I am using 10w-60 oil. Maybe the 15w-50 I had before was sufficient. Oh well... its hot here now BTW, I could not fasten the oil sender unit well (it leaks upon the first time installed). So, I had to remove the piece that holds the sender and the switch, to which an oil line to the cooler is connected. I say this just to inform that IT IS possible to remove that unit and replace/inspect the oil pressure sender and oil pressure switch. This is possible WITHOUT have to dismantle the plenum and without having empty the radiator. Thus, if someone wants to know how, let me know. BTW, the oil pressure switch needs a 21mm tool. The oil pressure sender (#122592) needs a 23 mm tool. The oil line (to the cooler) is 27mm. The screws holding this base to the main block are 13mm. Most can be done with crow's foot extensions and other normal stuff. Next, to drive some more! Issues still: -tachometer is a bit crazy still (haven't looked into it) -ignition switch contact doesn't always contact (I have tried cleaning as per birdman twice now, but its still iffy) -sunroof switch in console does not make good contact to close -AC: unknown status -exhaust: want to replace with new stuff, custom.
Very surprised to see you are using 10-60 oil as very heavy, are you in a hot area ? Mine ran fine on 5-40 for 20 years. Putting an extra shim in the pressure relief valve will increase the pressure at which it starts to lift. Putting too many shims might restrict its max lift, generally valves pass their max flow at 25% lift relative to its diameter. ie d/4
I put 10w-60 as a way to help debug my oil pressure problem, but in the end I think not necessary, will probably put 10-50 or 15-50 in next time. Climate here is now about 80-100F when driving. Pressure is 40-45 PSI at idle and 75-85 PSI at speed ---- seems good Yes 10-60 is heavy. Comments elsewhere tell me 10w-60 might be good regardless if the car sees some track time (which is might next year)...
