Punching a hole would not put metal chips in the engine. The metal simply tears when you punch it. The metal used for the filter body is very ductile. It does not shatter as, say, a hardened piece of metal might. An ice pick or awl works well. Drilling a hole puts metal fragments in the engine. Never drill. If you don't believe me, try it. Remove an old filter and cut the stuffings out so you have a shell. Clean it up completely. Put it on a clean piece of paper and poke a hole in it with an awl by striking the awl with a light hammer. You'll see, no chips. I always open all my filters with an air driven metal shearing tool - for cutting metal. Even that does not leave chips due to the ductility of the material. The reason why I cut the filters is to see what is trapped on the element.
DexM will be stocking these filters - I just placed an order today. They quoted me one week lead time, but thought they could do better. I can send them to you in Belgium if you want. PM me for special F-Chat pricing. I look forward to hearing from you. Best regards, Brent Cardani DexM llc
I am also pleased with the Baldwin B253 in my 308 GTB QV, and have used it now for several oil changes. In fact I even went out and bought Baldwins for the car I race based on this good experience. Kind Regards, Chris
I checked the time for my oil pressure to rise on my 328 after it sat for two weeks in my basement since last being started. Once the engine fired, it took 3 seconds for the oil pressure to rise. I use a NAPA filter.
Although there are many filters that will physically fit a 308 ( I found 5 or 6) I would strongly recommend using the UFI or Baldwin. The reason being is the max oil pressure on a 308 is around 92 PSI and the max on most North American (and many Foriegn) is 60 PSI or less. I asked NAPA if they could verify the max operating pressure on their NAPA Gold (made by WIX) could handle the pressure and they couldn't give me the answer. Also, the Napa I saw didn't have the internal stand tube. The 9.00 I pay for the Baldwin is well worth the piece of mind. DJ
The reason why the filters lose their oil is that it flows back down from where it entered the filter. There are some little flapper valves there that cover the entrance holes. By far the majority of the oil is stored on the upstream side of the filter media in the annular region between the filter medium and shell. If the little valves don't hold the oil in place, you lose it regardless of the stand pipe. As to whether the oil can seep through the filter medium in a reasonable amount of time without pressure is uncertain. If it can, then I applaud stanpipes. If not, they are mostly unecessary.
Ton, The filters are in stock. PM me here, or e-mail at [email protected] or call me at 810.625.3677. I look forward to hearing from you. Best regards, Brent
Lawerence, You make a good point; if the anti-drain back valve is of a poor design (or defective) then regardless of the standpipe, the filter cannot retain oil. But without the standpipe, the filter CANNOT (should not?) retain oil (or maybe it can through some sort of vacuum or something, which would explain when you punch a hole in the filter, oil drains out. When I punch a hole in a filter with a standpipe, nothing comes out, the standpipe and anti-drain back valve keep the oil from going anywhere). So a filter with a standpipe is preferred, and one that also incorporates a well designed anti-drain back valve that will retain oil, is preferred as well. The UFI and Baldwin do this. The Fram is noted for faulty anti-drain back valves, though it does have a (plastic) standpipe. There are many filters that will fit the 308/328/Mondial application that do NOT have standpipes, you are welcome to use them, but is not recommended, either by Ferrari or most independant Ferrari technicians. Steve Magnusson has posted drawings of a filter with and with out a standpipe and why it is needed if the filter is to retain any oil. See his post early in this thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/19896.html
