430 P2794 Error Code

well i hate to say this but i have a feeling its a sensor. Im going with potentiometer which is on the actuator

 

Sensors/potentiometers issue is not something the average guy can fix. From your description it sounds like to me that your car is having a hard time finding a gear so thats why im thinking this way. Potentiometers and certain sensors help the actuator go into gear among other things like the solonoids on the power unit. If those solonoids leak you can have same issues. That website you linked seems very very broad. I wouldnt go by that. These are just some opinions i have there are other things it could be. I hope im totally wrong and its an easier fix. Id get it on a sd3 to have leakage rates checked and they can help pinpoint it more

 

Check your chassis "Ground" or Earth connections with the wiring loom. This causes lots of strange and heat related problems.

There are many points where the wiring looms "grounds" join to the chassis, the Workshop manual has a good drawing with the attachment points.

 

I dont think p2794 exist in the f430 error reportior, but I am no expert.
You might want to use another scanner to see that again

 

I have had the same issue very occasionally since April. I also installed the Scud eMT relay ~ 1 year ago primarily to proactively avoid a hydraulic pump relay failure and to monitor the system for possible performance issues > https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/ecu-solutions/101-smart-emt-relay-ecu.html

I am periodically getting faults reported on the relay monitor that are consistent with the upshift failure (actually the module had been occasionally reporting faults before I started experiencing upshift issues). Ran into another 430 owner at a recent event experiencing the same issue - seems like this is cropping up a lot lately. I copied the email exchange below that I had with Stef (owner Scud Ing Swiss) - he has or had a 430 at one time, so you may find it helpful. There's also another thread running on FC that I believe is related > https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f430-e-diff-electronic-differential-info.577194/

Unfortunately, I haven't come across any information that clearly points to a specific component that is likely to be the cause. Waiting on our Indie to return from the Challenge Race - if I learn anything new, I'll update this thread.

[feedback from Scuding Swiss >
Hello Bruce,

Thanks for the videos. I confirm that you're having fault code 1, what means that your pump has been priming during 10 secs or more. It means that your hydraulic system has an issue in building up the hydraulic pressure to 50 bars and early warned you about this issue. A hydraulic system in good condition usually takes only 4 secs maximum, often less than that. Causes can be a failing pump, accumulator or hydraulic pressure leaks at the power unit, TOB or E-DIFF valve. If you often start having this fault code, I highly recommend that you get your hydraulic system checked before you get a more serious issue leaving you stranded on the road. This can be easily monitored with a diagnostic system like the SD3, SDX or DEIS.

I hope this helps,

Stef]

 

Hope this helps.....
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That's the potentiometer that I mentioned earlier in the thread. I believe it's the potentiometer in the actuator. If so the actuator has to come out. The actuator in these cars really isn't that hard to get out. Either way I think you're going to have to make a trip to the dealer or somebody who has the correct computers

 

Yes not a Diy. If thats what the issue is then in my opinion it would need computer reset. See what ur shop says as im curious

 

Potentiometers for the actuator on the inside of the actuator which means the actuator has to be removed but thats the easy part. I think it can be done without removing hydraulic lines. What im unsure of is the installation of the potentiometers and relearn. Its been awhile scince i did it

 

look at some pictures of actuators on eBay and that will give you an idea of where they are located

 

Heres the backside of an F1 actuator
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I dont remember how much play there would be in the lines, but if you can pull the actuator away from the gearbox far enough to replace them you may be ok. As i mentioned before you may need to have computers relearn on sd3. Whatever you do if you try this yourself make sure car is in neutral and battery switch is off. And also when you remove those potentiometers, lift them up slowly as i dont remember whats under them. Maybe someone here can chime in.

 

I think I've been trying to say this all along. If you can pull the actuator far enough away, just far enough to replace the potentiometers then you won't have to deal with no hydraulics. But you may still have to bring it to a dealer the hook up to an sd3. The good part about doing it yourself to some degree is not paying the dealer a bunch of money to remove the actuator and install the potentiometers. The bad part is if you do it yourself and bring it to a dealer to reprogram they may have issue with it. Maybe before you start the job it would be a good idea to call the dealer and said hey I have a car that potentiometers were just replaced can you do a relearn on it for me and see what they say

 

No need to disturb the hydraulics. You may install the new pots without a self-learn and the chances are that it will shift well enough to allow you to get to a shop to have it done.
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