Painting a V12 engine | FerrariChat

Painting a V12 engine

Discussion in 'Vintage (thru 365 GTC4)' started by steve meltzer, Dec 30, 2016.

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  1. steve meltzer

    steve meltzer Formula 3

    Sep 18, 2004
    1,046
    with Enzo 8995
    First, as usual, forgive my X-post. With the 330 engine now clean and on the stand, do you paint the block and pan, or just clean it as best you can? If you do paint, any hints? High temp rattle can, aluminum? Etching primer first?? thanx from the novice's novice. steve
     
  2. Dogdish

    Dogdish Formula Junior

    Dec 27, 2005
    367
    Denver
    #2 Dogdish, Dec 31, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. Lowell

    Lowell Formula 3
    Owner

    Apr 17, 2005
    1,165
    Santa Fe, NM
    Full Name:
    Lowell Brown

    I'm not sure about the outside. It is the inside that must be painted.
     
  4. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,696
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    This is one way of doing it (Scroll all way down for inside paint as welll):

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/206-246/388966-santa-came-early-year-00504-a-4.html

    Best regards

    Peter
     
  5. Wheels1

    Wheels1 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 23, 2007
    3,523
    UK
    Full Name:
    Grant
    I would use a high temp ali. exhaust paint
     
  6. Smiles

    Smiles F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 20, 2003
    16,619
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Full Name:
    Matt F
    I can't argue with that picture. It's gorgeous. (Although it's not a 209 330.)

    Mine was original and bare aluminum. That's officially correct, but what you do is completely up to you.

    Matt
     
  7. lancia

    lancia Formula Junior
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jan 18, 2004
    519
    The early V-12's (the non-modern era) were yes painted a medium lustre silver over zinc-chromate primer, including 330's - block, heads, cast aluminum accessories (but NOT the distributors). If it is a 330 and bare (sorry, generally not correct), the paint has been removed during past work. The major internal non-machined surfaces of the engine exposed to oil were also coated in zinc-chromate primer, which you will find brown from the oil exposure. A few of the very early 1950s engines appear to have been a darker silver gray color. Harley-Davidson high heat silver is one good option for color. Whatever high heat silver you use, test that the silver does not come off on your hand when dry - some rattle-can silvers will do that. Search the forum, previous discussions.
     
  8. steve meltzer

    steve meltzer Formula 3

    Sep 18, 2004
    1,046
    with Enzo 8995
    WOW! thanx for all of the info, guys. most helpful. thanx again. Picasso
     
  9. Lowell

    Lowell Formula 3
    Owner

    Apr 17, 2005
    1,165
    Santa Fe, NM
    Full Name:
    Lowell Brown
    #9 Lowell, Jan 3, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2017
    To prevent oil leaking through the porous Ferrari aluminum castings, the areas inside the engine that are not
    machined should be sprayed with a thin coating of zinc-chromate primer followed by a good coating of Glyptal brushed on.
    This is particularly needed for the inside of the cam covers because oil seeping though will remove the black wrinkle.
     
  10. 166&456

    166&456 Formula 3

    Jul 13, 2010
    1,723
    Amsterdam
    Lowell, that's interesting. I knew it for the blocks but not the covers, I see a potential problem with this for the cam covers, once that process has happened, isn't the oil already inside the metal and will repainting it not really help anymore against that issue? Not that repainting is very difficult or costly.
     
  11. Lowell

    Lowell Formula 3
    Owner

    Apr 17, 2005
    1,165
    Santa Fe, NM
    Full Name:
    Lowell Brown
    For my 330GT, I removed the tatty Black wrinkle on the outside with paint remover
    and then glass bead blasted both the outside and the inside --- and then removed the
    remaining beads with compressed air --- and then took lacquer cleaner and wiped and
    wiped and wiped --- especially on the inside to be sure that there were no little beads
    hiding somewhere. Then I painted the outside of one cover at a time with black wrinkle
    paint and heated the cover to make the wrinkle come out. Then I painted the insides
    as described in my previous post.

    I'm afraid that I don't understand "Not that repainting is very difficult or costly."

    If this means that it is easy and cheap, it is not true. In addition to the trouble painting
    that I have just described, removing the covers is non-trivial. In particular, you have to
    take a thin brass sheet and cut a semi-circle in it, and very, very carefully slide it in
    the front of the cam cover as you remove the cover so that the rubber gasket that runs
    around the timing chain cover and the cam cover front to seal everything does not break.
     
  12. steve meltzer

    steve meltzer Formula 3

    Sep 18, 2004
    1,046
    with Enzo 8995
    Lowell, thanx for your post about the amount of work required to remove, repaint and replace the cam and timing chain covers. (and you thought you knew the 3 R's of a good education!) I literally just came in from scraping old silicone and gasket material from the heads on my 330 GTC. One must keep all of the debris out of the chain case and the valve springs, etc. Major PITA. And, I've got it easy...the engine is on the stand and I have plenty of room to work...not having the engine in the car is a major advantage (i've done it both ways, as have many on the list) Depending on how one values their time, I would consider this very expensive. True, the materials aren't too expensive relative to Ferrari parts, but all of this is a big job. Glad I'm not a lawyer....it would kill me to think about how many billing hours I've lost cleaning dirty old Ferrari parts! steve
     
  13. JCR

    JCR F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Mar 14, 2005
    10,018
    H-Town, Tejas
    Glyptal is old school. Use Loctite 990 Resinol. LOCTITE IMP Resinol - Henkel
     
  14. Lowell

    Lowell Formula 3
    Owner

    Apr 17, 2005
    1,165
    Santa Fe, NM
    Full Name:
    Lowell Brown

    The person that put in new carpets in my 330GT often worked on Pebble Beach
    quality cars. He told me a story. Once while a very fancy car was in his shop,
    the owner came in. He liked to make small repairs. He had some small wrench
    and some small part. He assumed the classic position: head under dash,
    body facing up, legs up over the seat. He stayed that way for 90 minutes. Got
    up, displayed the old part that he had replaced with a big smile on his face, and then
    said: "In this amount of time I have performed two triple bypass heart operations."
     
  15. steve meltzer

    steve meltzer Formula 3

    Sep 18, 2004
    1,046
    with Enzo 8995
    Tho' not a CV surgeon, I can relate and have an internal chuckle at that story. thanx, Lowell. steve
     
  16. Bob Zambelli

    Bob Zambelli F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed Silver Subscribed

    Nov 3, 2003
    3,498
    Manning, SC
    Full Name:
    Robert G. Zambelli
    #16 Bob Zambelli, Jan 7, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  17. steve meltzer

    steve meltzer Formula 3

    Sep 18, 2004
    1,046
    with Enzo 8995
    thanx for the photos, Bob. Gorgeous! s
     
  18. Lowell

    Lowell Formula 3
    Owner

    Apr 17, 2005
    1,165
    Santa Fe, NM
    Full Name:
    Lowell Brown
    The results do look to be very nice.
     
  19. steve meltzer

    steve meltzer Formula 3

    Sep 18, 2004
    1,046
    with Enzo 8995
    anybody ever use Seymour brand dull aluminum? it's a high temp paint. i've often used their "cast blast" and it's been excellent. thanx steve
     
  20. Classic Oldtimer

    Feb 3, 2017
    63
    If you are going to the bother of cleaning /blasting etc then paint it properly with an etch primer (light) followed by silver basecoat and two pack clear lacquer -- then it will be easily cleaned when driven and used as it should be
     

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