Part#165903 Secondary Air Pump

Try this place never bought anything from them but price is good

https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/part/6076/ferrari/165903/complete-electric-air-pump.html

 

At that price, it would be worth taking one along to an auto electrician. There’s still guys out there rebuilding alternators and starter motors. An air pump can’t be that hard to fix.


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Paul, exactly what is wrong with yours?

 

It 'stopped working" according to Paul on the 348/355 forum. Hopefully he will add some more information...

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/part-165903-secondary-air-pump.620726/

Unfortunately, I didn't realise Paul has a 456M GTA, and may have offered the wrong advice on the 348/355 Forum. For the 456M, the pump could be stopped by:

Faulty fuse "8"? (although that also powers the oil radiator fan)
Air Pump Relay "V"?
No signal from the RH Motronics ECU?

Having said that, I'm having trouble matching the wiring diagrams to the WSM text:

The ECU activates the secondary air relay when the necessary conditions occur*. The relay is connected to the secondary air pump and parallel to the secondary air solenoid valve.

*The pump is activated in the following conditions:

- during the catalytic converter warm up period
- when the lambda adjustment isn't active because it has been disconnected or damaged and the sensor isn't yet up to operating temperature
- when the coolant temperature is too low, after starting the engine at cold.

Since the pump and secondary air solenoid "plumbing" are not in parallel, I assume they are talking about the electrics. However, the pump relay seems to be controlled by the RH Motronics ECU and the valve by the LH Motronics ECU.

Ferrari_456_Engine_Service_&_HVAC Wiring Diagram

 

It's a SPAL part. It may be worthwhile contacting SPAL USA, send them a pic of the part and see what they say. Maybe they can cross-reference it to another application.

 

I tried them last year for some parts that Ricambi and Algar showed as discontinued, and they were great. Most of their stuff comes from Europe so for USA buyers there can be a bit of lead time, but definitely worth it for the right parts.

 

It can also be "stopped" by an accumulation of plastic dust from the impeller rubbing against the case due to a failure of the thrust bearing or too close tolerances. The dust buildup simply jams the impeller. That part of the pump can be disassembled and cleaned out but the impeller will still rub against the case. The motor section including the thrust bearing is not "takeapartable"

 

A gentleman on the 348/355 forum said he replaced one of the bearings with a radio controlled car (wheel?) bearing, so I guess it involved some more serious disassembly techniques. Perhaps removing rivets, etc. At that point, it becomes an effort vs cost issue.

 

Paul, Did you get a DTC code, if so what was it?

I'll take a look at it if you want when you have it out. It's a chore to get out on a 550, I don't know about a 456

 

DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code
I will bet the impeller is jammed in its chamber due to debris from impeller rubbing on case.