Hi All, I am excited to hopefully joining you all to finally own a car of my dream. I just got the PPI. Please give me all of your suggestion so I can finalize the dream!!! Thank you all in advance!!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I didn't take the time to open the pdf but what are the basics? Price, year, mileage, time/miles since timing belt change, model, title history.
If I read correctly, numerous leaks, clock not working, stickies, scratches, out of date tires, scratched wheel. My suggestion find out approx. repair cost and negotiate from the asking price of $ 72,500. IMHO too many issues for the asking price. Don't let emotions guide your decision.
looking at the header pics and the dirty block.....looks like my car when the header failed and blew out the old fiberglass insulation........could be the start of header failure but it also could be just oil leak grunge (easily checked).
if the car has only gone 700 miles since jan 2013 then this car has been parked which is not good for the t belt......also explains the weeping cam seals. I would be prepared to do another major service.
the scrapes on the underbody, repainted front bumper all normal....non issue and easily fixed. the sticky interior bits....again easily fixed by yourself if your so inclined ....but if not you could send it out to be corrected but I've read people paying 3g or so to contractors.
CV boot - "pass inboard slow leak" Sounds like they will need to be replaced. Look into upgrading heat shields which can overheat the CV booots while you are at it.
I didn't see where the tire dates were listed but if they are original to the car...could be 10 to 15 years old and should consider replacing.
Tires say: 0504, 4603, 4604, 4604 Translation: 5th week of 2004, 46th week of 2003, 46th week of 2004. Should be ok. Five years is the limit.
Should be ok??? These tyres are 11-12 years old Get rid pronto....or be prepared for a 360 degree when applying throttle out of a bend!
Good luck Just set aside 10K for stuff that you may want to do in the first year, That seems to be the magic number. A bunch of us in the area work on our cars couple times a year, may want to join us. very casual Motor sounds solid so no issue there
I recall talking to the f dealer about the drilled disk option back in 1999. They had a silver coupe in the showroom at the time with this option.
When I got my car the tires were about that old. I only drove it a few short times. When I put new rubber on it, the ride was transformed. That old hard rubber is bad news.
Maybe after we hear 2 or 3 more times that the tires are out of date we can move on from that part of the story. New tires=$1200 Bumper scratches normal. If you fix them you'll have some more if you drive it places other humans drive their cars. Oil leaks not great, but if it's not dripping then maybe keep driving until the next major in 2018? I paid less than half of this recently for a spider but I know the hard tops are worth more. I also know of someone who paid 90K for a hard top with quite a few issues. One thing I'd ask specifically is if there is any mechanical/exhaust leak noise after the car gets fully up to operating temperature. I know of 2 355's that have no noise when cold but do make mechanical noise when warm. I agree with what a couple others have said: If you can get it for the low 60's I'd say it's a good price. Even if you pay high 60's it might still be a good deal with the nutso 355 prices out there. Then again, asking prices are easier to find data on than actual sales prices. Good luck!
I think upper 50s to low 60s would be inspiration to pull the trigger. Looks normal for a car that needs some love. Good albeit leaky engine. Good clutch. Just needs a throughout engine out in the back. Sticky interior. I would just start adding up the costs to get it to a premium 355 F1 B like they have it priced at the moment. Then start subtracting from the $72500. Thorough engine out at Norwood is $8-9k....sticky $3k....tires $1k...does it have its keys, its fobs, the books, the tools, the inflator, the factory car cover...etc. On the cross drilled rotors, my 99 came with cross drilled rotors as an option listed on the window MSRP and options sticker.