I pulled apart my PS door to fix the speaker. While I was in there I decided to replace the grease in the power window motor. I got it all back together, and have the cables routed the best I can using the 308 door parts diagram from the Ferrari Owners's Site......except the bottom tensioner pulley. If I install that the cables are so tight that the motor refuses to work on it's own. With the tensioner pulley removed the window actually functions pretty good and the cables haven't jumped off. Anyone else run into this? Aaron
If you use the "search" function, there are several threads about power windows and a few cover the routing of the cable I think. Slow power windows are a common problem , so there are lots of threads about it, in great detail.
There is a very good diagram in the parts book if you want to cheat TAV 108 in the 78 parts book shows a very good picture, as well as the correct cable routing. This is a right of passage for Ferrari DIY's, so do not feel alone. I think we all think this stuff looks simple enough we dont need a book, and then WHAM! More than likely, you have the cables routed wrong, or they are twisted. If it was right when you took it apart, its obviously not now. I fought with mine for over two hours, kept taking the motor out and looking it over again, refusing to look at a diagram because I really just wanted to learn the hard way. Once you figure it out its actually very simple. Quite elegant actually, that they could make a window winder that is that lightweight. My passenger door has a clunk now that never existed before, and I suspect a cable is jumping over another on the cable wheel and then snapping back into place. I will have to go in there again and play with them this winter. Another idea that I believe has good merit, are the pulleys. I found one that was so dry it wasnt turning, just allowing the cable to slide over it. The pulleys in the clutch cable are reported to be the same size, but have bearings inside??? That could make a dramatic difference.
My driver side window is also getting real slow and I'm dreading taking off the door panel and tackling the problem. I might try it this winter.
Just did drivers side. Followed the directions in the FChat thread. I ran into the same problem you did. I found that I did not have enough wire coiled on the motor as when I took it out. It took a few times of seeing how much should be wrpped on before stringing over the rollers but I eventually figured it out. I would suggest on door 2 that you mark all points on the cable/rollers before removing anything. One point on the directions on FChat, I did not remove my window frames or glass like it suggested. I sat on the floor and cleaned the motor without really leaving the door. It's possible, but cold on your ass after 5 hours of trying to get it right! I got more tips on this if you want, PM me.
I havnt read all the motor threads, and I am not sure what you mean above about removing the glass or the frame, but I didnt need to remove either one to pull the motor out. I had it in and out a few times trying to figure it out.
I have the opposite problem.. My window goes up so fast it tries to launch itself off the door and makes a loud snap sound as it hits the top of the molding.. JJ
I pulled the driver's side door apart tonight. It's power window motor was DOA. Turns out it had hair or carpet wrapped around the shaft. It couldn't turn at all. I took it apart, lubed it, removed the hair/carpet and reinstalled it. I routed the cable EXACTLY as I did on the passenger side and the lenght came up correct. So I removed and replaced the passenger side motor and cable twice tonight. I could never make it fit with the tensioner pulley. So I assembled it without the passenger side with no tensioner pulley, window seems to work fine. Aaron
Again though, if it was working before with the tensioner pulley installed, and now it wont, you still dont have it back together properly. Look at it some more, I bet youll see it. I seem to recall having the same problem. The cable under the tensioner is most likely routed incorrectly. Coming from the motor, from the top front pulley, the cable goes down to the bottom pulley, then up to the rear upper, then down to the rear bottom pulley, then over the tensioner and directly back to the motor. Also, make sure the cables are coming off the motor drum correctly. They should be off the front most side as installed in the car.
same here Branko. I've been toying with the idea of replacing the fuseblock with Bridman's as I read that some users had slow windows, replaced the fuseblock and they worked like new. Might kill two birds with one stone....
BigAl, The fuseblocks might help a little but if your windows are really slow, you got lube issues! Birdman
Birdman, since you know electronics well, have you any feedback or opinions on those boosters that you can install to make the windows work better? I am going to try to lubricate my windows first to see if that works once I get my car back from paint as they are so slow. I will just live with the slow windows if there is a danger of hurting the wiring system... Also, I am going to install your fuseblocks.... I will do anything to improve my electronics - I don't ever want to have to my horn sounding off by itself again!
typo above bugger! What I was trying to say guys is that the horn can just start going off by itself. I had to pull that fuse for the horn to make it stop! My mechanic fixed it and it was no big deal really other than embarassment but I was thinking that Birdman's fusebox might help such issues??
the window is driven by a spiral metal coil that is pushed forwards and back (up and down) by the motor via a gear-like machanism. The window lift bracket is permanently attached to one end of this coil, and the other is free floating. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sorry for the delay Branko. Hope these give you insight to what it looks like inside. timr Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Tim, thanks for posting the photos. I did a search on 'slow windows' and found one thread that said to start with the window up, another said half way up, while a third said to start with the window down. Is there a 'best way' or does it not really matter?
...unless there are worn out, incorrect or missing rubber tracks in the window frame. My window FLIES without the tracks in place. (Don't ask how I know. It's embarissing.) The "clink" reported to happen at the top makes me think that may be the case. BTW, I have seen inside of three different doors lately and ALL THREE have perished rubber bump-stops at the bottom of the window travel. The drive slams the glass into these stops - or if missing, the steel frame! I have replaced my bumpers. ...word to the wise, etc. -rick '79 308GTB
This link has a very detailed 308 power window service procedure: Fix for slow windows on 308/328/Mondial http://70.85.40.84/~ferrari/discus/messages/256120/114996.html I disagree with Stewart Chung's posts about needing to let the tensioner float. You get that effect when you've miss-routed the cable(been there). If you do the procedure with the window up(see above thread), you can remove, service, verify cable installation & cable operation, etc. w/o having to clamp the cable to the window. Once everything's operating smoothly tighten the window clamps & you're all set. If you start with the window down you'll have to raise/fight with it to access the cable clamps on the window's bottos.
