Q: Would this scissor lift work for a Mondial 8/QV/3.2?

Hi:
I'm pretty sure my next project car will be a Mondial and part of my plans involve dropping the engine/subframe (for me, its about the journey vs the destination. If I wanted a faster car to not drive anywhere since I WFH now, I'd just buy one).

My challenge is that my garage is fairly small (because San Francisco). Its a 1 car garage with workshop space on the right (passenger side) of the car.
- I originally considered a MaxJax M6K but I'm a little worried about the limited distance I would have from the driver's side of the car to the shear wall. Also, I'm not 100% sure how thick the concrete is in my basement. I had it redone/poured when I bought the house but i'm not 100% sure its 2" thick as per the MaxJax suggestion

- In any case, I'm not going to be able to lift the top of the mondial car more than 7ft from the floor to the bottom of the garage door. Even if I modified the garage door, there's a beam in the way so I woudn't gain more than 3-4 inches.

This has led me to consider a mid-rise scissor lift.
https://www.toolots.com/mid-rise-scissor-lift-110v.html

I believe this should be OK because if the mondial roof is 49.2" off the ground, that would give me ~35" of lift.
I haven't taken physical delivery of the mondial yet but a friend who checked the car says that there is ~8' between the front of the subframe to the back of the front wheels.

Q: Is there any reason why this lift won't work to drop the engine/subframe/

Q: Is there another model I should consider? I'm comfortable in this range so if there's a better product, I'm happy to hear about it.

Thanks in advance for you suggestions.
-g

 

Thanks folks. I'm excited about this project. I have a handshake on the price and am starting to arrange shipping now. I placed an order for the scissor lift I mentioned. Even if its expensive, this lift has a higher lift than the quick jack which only goes up to 21" which is basically what i can do with my stands.
The lift I identified has a max lift of 39"... the max lift b/c of my garage configuration is 35".

I'll report how well it works.

Q: If someone has a measurement of the engine from the top of the intake manifold to the bottom of the subframe, that would be an interesting number to know.
If things get tight, well, I'm not above shennanigans (pull the intake manifold, jack up the rear body, etc.)

 

I went ahead and rolled the dice on buying this lift. The math said it would probably work and the pics looked decent enough.
https://www.toolots.com/mid-rise-scissor-lift-110v.html
- I got a slight discount (5%) when I called in my order so the price including taxes and delivery from SoCal to SF was just under $2800.
- Delivery took longer than expected because the shippers partner in NorCal (which has a stunning 1.5 star review), basically delivered it whenever they go around to it. I think they had it for 6 days before they called me to setup a delivery appointment.
- Getting it off the pallets and into position took a bit of creative work. The flat lifting mechanism weighs several hundred LBs -- you cannot just lift it. I used a HF winch I have installed at the end of my garage which I previously used to move my old project car when it wasn't running to drag the lift mechanism off the pallets.
- Quality wise, it seems pretty good. The instructions are fairly sparse (how you assemble/use the wheels isn't explained) but I was able to figure it out and lever it in place using a friend's help, some blocks of wood, and a 4' crowbar (another HF special).
- Exactly how much hydraulic oil you need wasnt documented in the instructions )it says just to fill it to the dipstick level). The capacity of the fluid tank is 6L so I ended up going to Lowes twice as they sell gallons of hydraulic oil.
- if you want to use the rubber blocks to protect the car, you need to lift the car up slightly (I used wood so the lift wouldnt damage the car body/frame, place some wood underneath the tires, and then bring the car down to let the car rest on the rubber blocks instead of straight on the metal scissor lift. You then lift the car (and the rubber blocks) again to remove the wood.

- I positioned the lift by measuring the distance from the nose of the car to the back of the front wheel. I then marked where I wanted to car to be in my garage. With the car in position, there is just enough room to drop the subframe without having it hit the scissor lift IF you remove the 'up ramps'.
- by my measurements, you only need 31" to drop the QV subframe and clear the bottom of the car. This lift will go up 39" and I have room to go up about 35" in my garage. There is plenty of clearance.
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Got the engine out without any drama. Upon closer inspection, the gas tanks may be a little more of a challenge because they are underneath the flat lifting surfaces but I'll figure them out after I pull the engine from the subframe.

 

Oh, I used a $230 ATV jack from costco and a quick bracket made of scrap wood to go underneath the subframe while I undid the bolts.

In hindsight the $300 lifting table from harbor freight might have been a better choice and tools but I honestly don't think I would use either tool again (this Jack is kinda janky).