R1 R2 ignition phasing (6lobe cam) | FerrariChat

R1 R2 ignition phasing (6lobe cam)

Discussion in '206/246' started by daviekj, Nov 11, 2008.

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  1. daviekj

    daviekj Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    May 9, 2008
    470
    UK
    #1 daviekj, Nov 11, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The following describes the process I used to phase the R1 and R2 points on my 1973 246GT. Its a UK car but has the US specification 6 lobe cam and two sets of points R1 and R2. R2 is only used for idle. I am confident this is the original distributor fitted by the factory, even though its a UK car. The dinoplex ignition module has at some stage been replaced with a super4 module.
    I am considering alternative optical or magnetic systems, however, I did not want to change the original set up until I fully understood it and proved to my self that an alternative may be better. Apart from that I am one of those who likes to keep as much as possible original.
    The attachements show the proceedure in sequential order.
    If you see any mistakes or have suggestions, please respond.
    The next stage will be the dynamic timing. I did this before stripping and rebuilding the distributor. The advance curve did not lie totally in the the error bars of the manual, hence the decision to take the distributor apart and check. Turns out that all four of the springs were different, which certainly is not factory original.
    I will report back on the results.
    Kevin
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  2. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
    38,085
    Clarksville, Tennessee
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    Terry H Phillips
    #2 tazandjan, Nov 13, 2008
    davie- I built a distributor timing machine about as simple as your set-up based on one in the Daytona workshop manual translated by Angelo Wallace. For a degree wheel, I used part of an Air Force CPU 26 flight computer with the center transparent portion cut out to fit over the distributor. Thin plastic so I think I cut it with a razor blade or Exact knife. I then made a pointer for the rotor. Very simple and easy to use and merely an improvement on what you are using because the degree wheel and pointer allowed for very precise adjustments.

    Taz
    Terry Phillips
     
  3. daviekj

    daviekj Formula Junior
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    May 9, 2008
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    #3 daviekj, Nov 14, 2008
    Taz,
    yes I actually did something similar. I blue tacked (sticky rubber stuff) a "L" shaped wire along the radius of the rotor and pointing down to the perimeter of the base plate. Unfortunuately i forgot to put it back on to do the photos. As you say, easier to be more accurate this way.
    Kevin
     
  4. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
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    May 5, 2005
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    Santa Barbara, CA
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    John Corbani
    #4 John Corbani, Nov 14, 2008
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2008
    Kevin,
    If you remove the points for a magnetic pick-up you will lose the 5.5 degree retard and a very slow idle. Your car works exactly like a US car with air injectors except no injectors. Don't know why someone did that unless he wanted a 700 rpm idle. Book says 1000 and car runs best there or higher. Then again, it might affect the burbling and banging during overrun.

    I lube the advance mechanism every 15,000 miles and I have found it no problem to change the points every two lubes. Use a CD Ignition system of any brand and NGK Iridium plugs. You will never have a miss and plugs last forever. Here is a link to a Saga talking about the distributor. Might be interesting.
    http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98213&highlight=rebuild
    John
     

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