Thanks, Adrian, this is exactly the info I need. I've got the 0 221 119 030 on order and I'll find that resistor locally, I hope. Btw, I'm using a Crane XR700 optical sensor unit in the distributor which seems to be pretty bullet-proof. I'll switch plugs if necessary - - got BP6ES in now when not on the track. Many thanks, Bill
Adrian, I removed the BK 3A with its attached resistor and installed the new Bosch 0 221 119 030 "Red" coil and the 1.8 ohm ballast resistor in line with the Superformance Dinoplex. Essentially, I'm set-up with the items SP is currently showing as the system on their website. In fact, I found the SP installation instructions/diagram and resistor (tested at 1.7 ohms) that came with my SP system several years ago. Unfortunately, the hot start characteristics remain unchanged - - lots of cranking, reluctant to catch a spark. HOWEVER, I experimented with jumpering the resistor during the hot start and it started immediately. My conclusion is I may need to replace the SP Dinoplex OR figure out a way to automatically jump the resistor on every start (I'm doing it manually by simply hooking a wire directly from the 12V side of the resistor to the + post of the coil). I prefer the least expensive method. Any suggestions on how best to do that- -connect a relay to the ignition switch that sends 12V to the coil when cranking? I'm open to ideas. Hopefully, this will help many experiencing this same problem. Many thanks in advance. Bill
I have to correct my former posting, just measured the BK 3A and the resistance including the ballast is 3.6Ω as with the Bosch setup, so both coil setups would run at a max of 4 Ampere primary current. This approximately the same current you see from a points setup, e.g. not a lot. As you already posted, one solution would be to bridge the ballast resistor with a relay while starting, this is also the least expensive method and was the default approach in many cars in the sixties/seventies with a points setup. You can use a standard Tyco SPDT 30A automotive relay to do this, wire one end of the ballast resistor to terminal 30, the other end to terminal 87. Then wire ground to terminal 85 and a wire from the starters activation wire (the thin one) to terminal 86. As long as the starter is engaged, the ballast will be bridged. Not sure that the Super4 can handle a continuous current larger 4A (the power transistor can but the cooling might not be sufficient), so would not encourage to run the Super4 without a ballast resistor. The NGK BPR7EIX plugs are recommended with points and weak transistor ignitions, as the small electrodes help in initiating a spark discharge with a lower spark voltage. Good luck, Adrian
Adrian, I don't know if I can afford one of those relays! $1.98 plus shipping on Amazon! That's reverse "Sticker Shock" when it comes to fixing a Ferrari. Life is good! Once again, thanks for the great advice. I will give it a try next week and report back. Btw, I've got a set of BP7EVX plugs in stock. That's a platinum fine wire plug from several year back. That should serve the same purpose, no? Bill
Was this the same set up? Maybe it just needed some more attention? I hope it works out. The relay idea is pretty neat, I removed the ballast resistor completely from mine, that was a long time ago.
I am testing the Bosch Super 4 Replacement Ignition currently too. Thanks to Adrian for you help, it runs fine on my 71 GT. Regards Nicolai Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Adrian and others I'm really new to the Dinoplex system so please excuse if my questions are a little basic. My brothers car (71 246GT) is currently fitted with an MSD 6A system. While it works well, it looks wrong so we would like to change it to a Dinoplex for a concours correct look. Unfortunately we do not have an original Dinoplex to re-build so I think that buying the Superformance unit is our best option. That said I do have a few questions: 1. In detail, how does the Superformance Dinoplex ignition differ from the original unit in terms of looks? Is it 100% concourse correct and if not what would need to be changed to get it looking perfect? 2. Am I correct to assume that the Superformance unit has had a similar internal re-build made as outlined in this thread? If so how do the parts they use differ from the ones reccomended here? 3. Lastly, If I do not have a Dinoplex to start with where can I find one to re-build off of? It seems like finding a used one (even dead) and then re-building it would cost more than just buying the Superformance unit. Any input would be appreciated.
1) I can answere as I have both: The Superformance Dinoplex is a copy of the original one. The Aluminum cast housing with the blue label on it looks from 1-2m distance as original. In detail the aluminum looks like its painted silver and the surface more rough. If you buy this one I would try to use glass beading on the surface to make it look wheathered and get a more flat surface. The coil from Bosch looks more different from the Magneti Marelli BZR 201A. The Marelli coil is flat black with the square resistor on it, the Superformance parts you can see on my pictures before. You could paint the coil in black and maybe use the Matrelli resistor? 2) Adrian should answere.... 3) There is a dead original Dinoplex for 300 $ since years on ebay motors: Item No.:110495214845 Regards Nicolai
It is not really concourse correct. The cast finish is different, the connector is a different type, rivets are steel pins but should be aluminium rivets and enclosure screws are a later design not used by Marelli in the seventies. The bottom part of the enclosure is different but you don't see this while the unit is installed. Many judges probably won't notice the differences listed above but the different wiring colors/coil and resistor are a dead giveaway. If you change the wire colors to the original setup, hide the resistor behind the ignition or coil, repaint the coil in satin black and apply the correct sticker, you have a good chance to pass an inspection. Both ignition setups are transistor based, but the Bosch setup is a bit more advanced (featuring electronic dwell and current control) and is a high energy ignition (7.8A vs. 3-4A primary coil current) which helps with hot/cold starting and high revs. If your brother has an '71 model, then your Dino was most probably delivered with a Dinoplex AEC101 D (the long box), not with the AEC103 (the short box). If you could tell me the number (post or mail to [email protected]) i can do a check which ignition was delivered as factory default.
The car is serial #01464. Matthias told me that it is a Dec70-Jan71 build. Hope this helps. With regards to the finish it appears as though many people blast these cases with glass which is far too abrasive and give a pebbled finish. The best way to clean these is chemically because any abrasive takes away the natural cast look of the enclosure. I think that with all of the differences quoted, and a full winter ahead of me, I will look for an old Dinoplex and attempt the Bosch conversion.
Exactly, it shows the bottom view of the relay/holder so should be helpful when you insert the crimped terminals into the back of the relay holder.
Your car was delivered with a Magneti Marelli AEC103A (the small one). Let me know if you need help with the conversion, happy to support or mail an inverter. I am not too happy with the glass blasting myself and am having a try at dry ice blasting next. Would be interested in the chemical process, how does it work? Cheers, Adrian
Thank you for the information. As for the blasting process, there are many ways to achieve a factory cast finish other than media blasting. I feel that during restorations too many people are quick to just media blast parts which forever ruins the factory finish of the material. I believe that media blasting should be reserved for components that will receive a painted finish however when a part is to be exposed, it is important to understand the manufacturing process in achieving the correct finish. This extends to details in the material that are often lost to abrasive media such as the raised Magnetti Marelli script that has its edges softened when blasted. Most people would not care and prefer the shiny look of media blast however these little details add up and are noticeable to the observant eye. Returning to the Dinoplex I have not had the chance to look at an original one in person however from the photos it appears as though it was made with die cast aluminum. Closer inspection will reveal how the molding was cleaned after the casting process. Whether the excess flashing was mechanically ground off or if the part received a cleaning in a vibration chamber. Closer inspection will reveal the correct cleaning method however at present I think that the proper way will be through a chemical cleaning rather than with abrasive. Again I cannot comment on the correct method or specific chemical without seeing some original parts and running some tests.
Firstly thank you to Adrian (Alhbln) for a brilliant thread and for his support during this work. For some years I have been thinking of replacing the original 6 lobe cam, R1, R2 points set up on my late Euro 1973 246GT with a modern trigger system. I am fed up of having to take the rear wheel off and fiddle around in the distributor checking point gaps and timing. www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=221650 At the same time I wanted to replace the non-original early Super 4 ignition module which came with my car with an original Dinoplex box, purely to restore some originality. I have dithered on which system to use. I came close to ordering an MSD 6A ignition module and crane trigger. Then I read Adrians article and excellent alternatives chart on www.dinoplex.org. I decided on the Bosch ignition module and Lumentiaon trigger for the following reasons: 1) The Bosch ignition module could clearly be neatly hidden in an original Dinoplex box. In my trawl of information on fchat I did read somewhere that the MSD 6A also would fit, however I have not seen any pictures to gain confidence to buy and try. 2) The Bosch conversion is cheaper than the MSD 6A. 3) I have another classic which has been running a Lumention module and optical trigger for over ten years and 12,000 miles. I have removed the distributor cap on that car twice since it installation. There have been no faults or need to touch it. 4) Adrians detailed thread, experience and willingness to provide backup support. Since this conversion I have covered 350 miles in the Dino with the installation. I am pleased to report perfect running and immediate starting, hot and cold and the rev counter works perfectly. I will continue to provide updates, but I am not expecting any drama. I am very pleased with the result. I have probably spent 4 full time weekends on this project, most of which was studying the wiring diagrams, sourcing information and planning. On a difficulty scale where 1 is changing the plugs and 10 is removing the engine, I would guess this project is a 3. As always, most of the challenge is knowing what to do rather than actually having difficulty in doing it. hopefully this report will help. Only basic tools are needed for this. PARTS: the parts were straight forward to order. Some details appear in the slides below. As Adrian notes, although Lumenition supply the optical trigger, the fitting kit that includes the chopper blade and optical trigger base plate is not available for the Dino distributor. The nearest kit FK.425, has a chopper blade that needs an additional insert to fit on the distributor 3 or 6 lobe cam. In addition, while the mounting plate in the kit fits, it is not ideal and probably easier to make your own as detailed below. In short I ended up paying £35(~$54) for a plastic chopper blade and two 2BA screws. However, fabricating a chopper blade with DIY tools would be far from easy. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
opening the Dinoplex box Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
