Removing 328 cylinder head | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Removing 328 cylinder head

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by RGigante, Feb 20, 2009.

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  1. Artvonne

    Artvonne F1 Veteran

    Oct 29, 2004
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    The picture in the manual shows the torque wrench angled 90 degrees to the wrench/tool, perhaps this is where the idea of 90 degree further tightening is being confused?

    The manual very clearly indicates 10kgm maximum torque. Do not turn the wrench any further, another 90 degrees could cause some very serious problems. You snap off a head stud (or pull it out of the block) and you wont be happy, lol.
     
  2. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #27 Rifledriver, Feb 27, 2009
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2009
    Page B37 is the 308 section of that book. The 328 section does not start until page B44. The 328 and 308 motors have several differences so specs and procedures are different.

    In that book on page B50 and B51 which is the portion applicable to the 328 motor it clearly shows and describes the torquing method and use of the degreewheel. It is different on the 328 due to the hourglass 10mm head studs used in 328 that were designed to be more elastic and stretched to create clamping pressure. I consider the entire affair a mistake. 328 is the only Ferrari motor since the old 3 stud 250 of about 1959, and prior motors that had head gasket trouble. Those head studs were ababdoned for the F40, 348 and all later motors. They went back to the old 11mm studs because they worked. My own 328 motor is apart right now and replacement of the 10mm studs is on the agenda.

    If it is decided to reinstall the head the original way Ferrari says to torque it to 45NM and tighten an additional 120 degrees. With the head design it is impossible to swing the wrench that far in a single throw so the degreewheel fixture is used to keep track of the degrees per throw. Again I think it a mistake and would just use 11mm studs and torque it the old fashioned way which worked flawlessly for decades before a young engineer decided to continue a long standing Ferrari tradition to fix that which is not broken.
     
  3. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Another case of a poorly written and assembled book on the part of Ferrari. They were mixing 308QV and 328 info which were built differently.


    Head studs never rip out of the block, they break at the base of the upper thread.
     
  4. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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  5. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #30 Rifledriver, Feb 27, 2009
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2009
    The same can be said for many motors but we are talking about Ferrari's here.
     
  6. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    I referred to the 328 head studs as hourglass in error. They are a simple dual diameter stud of 14mm at the bottom and 10mm on the exposed half.

    I knew what I meant but just wasn't smart enough to type it the first time.
     
  7. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #32 Verell, Feb 27, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Understandable error, The WSM wording has always been slightly ambiguous on this point, however, there is a very clear unambiguous statement of what was intended in the Euro 308 QV Owner's manual #248/82, under Valve timing data page 66:
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  8. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    Page B50-B51 of the 308QV/328 WSM 550/89, I've just checked.
     
  9. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    You're right about the 90º to the wrench/tool, but see my previous post. They state 120º after tightening to 4,5Kgm, not 90º after 10Kgm !
     
  10. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    So if you were to keep the original studs you'd use the manual procedure, right ?
    What puzzles me is that with the head design the goniometer doesn't turn on itself only, but also does the semi-circle that the special tool does. Iv've used that tool before but always on a straight tool ...
     
  11. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #36 Rifledriver, Feb 28, 2009
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2009
    It shout be held in place to prevent turning by the magnetic base. It will move through the small arc though, you are correct.

    It was a bad procedure with poorly designed parts and tools.

    Buy new studs.
     

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