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360 Removing the rear cam cap

Discussion in '360/430' started by TuttoBene, Apr 9, 2021.

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  1. TuttoBene

    TuttoBene Rookie

    Sep 6, 2020
    34
    Full Name:
    Doug
    Hi guys,

    I'm doing a cam belt job on my 360 and decided to go for the seals as well while I have the belts off. For some reason I can't get the cam cap off on the exhaust cam. The on on the intake cam came off with some hand wiggling. Is there a trick here?

    I've tried heat, penetrating oil, and pulling them with vice grips. It feels like I'm yanking at Excalibur. Other caps on that shaft came off fine and the same rear cap on the intake came out fine as well. The shop manual states that the caps are machined together with the head so I'm thinking that it would be bad to damage these. It seems like I'm missing something here.




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  3. Some Guy in the sky

    Sep 19, 2018
    175
    I don't know the answer to the question you are asking. But I am curious what the word on the yellow stamp that is physically on the cam says, I have not seen that before (looks like it ends in 'LITA').
     
  4. 360+Volt=Prius

    360+Volt=Prius Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 1, 2013
    1,416
    Western Mass
    Full Name:
    Raimondo
    Why are you removing the cam caps? If it’s for the front cam seals you should be able to remove and replace them after removing the cam gears. Standard type of Pressed in oil seal. At least that’s how I did mine, have not leaked in 6 years.

    -ray


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  5. TuttoBene

    TuttoBene Rookie

    Sep 6, 2020
    34
    Full Name:
    Doug
    Thanks, that seems like a better move. I was following the workshop manual on section B 3.02 and it t described a whole removal of the camshaft before replacing the seals. The safest thing to do here seems to be to just put it all back together and detach the cam gears.
     
  6. TuttoBene

    TuttoBene Rookie

    Sep 6, 2020
    34
    Full Name:
    Doug
    So that's not printed on anyone else's 360 camshafts? Huh. I wonder what kind of interesting history I'm dealing with here. I'm the car's 4th owner. I bought it for the track. So far it runs great, but I only have service records since 2013. Maintenance records seem normal and current since 2013 with lots of good work in 2018, but who knows what happened between 1999 and 2013! It's part of the reason I wanted to dig around.
     
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  8. 360+Volt=Prius

    360+Volt=Prius Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 1, 2013
    1,416
    Western Mass
    Full Name:
    Raimondo
    Interesting I never read that part of the WSM and never considered that Method.

    My assumption is it’s a way to avoid Degreeing cams which I did. I was going to degree anyway.

    Removing the cams, gears, and seals as unit May turn out to be quicker than degreeing, and safer than marking and reinstalling gears.

    I wonder how the pros here replace the seals.

    Make sure you have engine at TDC, and check the factory scribed marks in the rear. You must precisely mark cam gear position relative to the cam. When done triple check the timing marks by spinning engine to verify factory marks still line up after belts are on.

    Again I wonder how the pros do this, and if you are in this far it may actually make sense as you originally intended to remove cam, gear and seal as unit to avoid timing issues from cam gear removal.

    -ray


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  9. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    10,948
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    1. Access the front of the engine
    2. TDC for Cyl 1
    3. Lock the cam shafts from moving, remove belts.
    4. Remove the cam sprocket pulley(s)
    5. Remove the seal by pulling straight out
    6. Replace seals
    7. Put the pulleys back, install belts
    8. Degree the cam shafts or equivalent.

    There are some steps in between where you have to tension belts properly.
     

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