Shell Helix Ultra 5-40 vs Mobil 1 0-40

When I first got my car I had the same question about the oil. I did a very extensive research on this forum but I save some time and just pm on of the sponsors here, Norwood Performance. They took the time to explain why RedLine is the best for my car. Also Brian recommend it, so if two of the best consultants here reconends RedLine why I should get other brand? Two years with RedLibe and just great results.

 

What are they good results you have had ? noone has reported bad results from any synthetic ...why aren't you using Redline in your daily driver. that suffers more of abuse daily

 

this is what I think... Oil naturally gets thinner as temperature rise. additives are added in the oil to stabilize the viscosity so it wont get too thin when it hits(100c). Thinner oil(0w40) contains more additives to prevent it from getting thinner, thicker oil(20W40) requires less additives because it is thick to start with. I think people chose 10w40 over 0w40 because it contains more oil and less additives.
please correct me if I am wrong

 

Scuderia and 599 get 10w-60 from the factory and the oil pump is external of the engine block

 

I would just use the factory recommendations as there is no need to over analyzed this. I am sure Ferrari has this figured out when they build this car plus they printed in the manual.

 

The above post is perhaps the one M1 users need to look at.
I just checked and confirmed that Mobil 1 has been reformulated, and "de rated" to group III in the oil category. Oils rated group 3 are NOT 100% synthetic.
I have been using M1 for many years, and this is really bad news. Will now switch to Redline on my SF car.

 

darn i just did an oil change mobile 1 where can you find this rating because now all my cars will only have group 1 oils

 

Can you provide this information or a link to it?

 

just ordered a case of valvoline 5-40 fully syn for my 430 ... is that realy synthetic or is that bull too?

 

Mobil 1 is not 100% synthetic, it is only made from partial synthetic stock.

 

I found an interesting oil test.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oiltest.pdf

Both Mobil one and Shell Helix are in this test. Remarkable result.

regards

Anders

 

Interesting article. Sure makes Royal Purple look good. What the test doesn't measure is how well it continues to protect at high temperatures and how slowly or quickly it breaks down over time and stress, not to mention how effective its detergent and other additives. Nonetheless, I've had good experiences with RP products and may go that route at the next oil change. They do make it in the recommended weights. Be prepared for a bit of shock when you see the oil for the first time. It really is purple, not the usual honey color.

I will probably stick with the factory recommended 5w-40 range. The engine's clearances I suspect are rather tight, so I don't want to go too light with 0w, and at 5w base, a synthetic oil flows plenty good at the moderate temperatures we see here in California.

Many people don't drive their cars more than 7500 miles a year, but I like to change my oil somewhere between 5000 and 7500 miles if I did, or at least once a year along with brake and other fluids, regardless of mileage. In most cars, the transmission fluid is the exception to annual changes, but most cars don't have their transmissions nestled so close to the headers, so for me, that will get changed out annually, too.

 

What is the reason Royal Purple will not release any technical data/specs about their oil? That is one reason I will not use it.

 

That's a good point. I don't know.

 

Mobil 1 0w40 and Mobil 1 10w60 are mostly group 3 synthetic with some group 4

Mobil 1 5w-50 and Mobil 1 15w50 are 100% PAO (apart from the usual amount of mineral oil to dilute the additives)

 

Usually it's to do with ambient temps

 

This test is a bit of a red herring as it is completely non representative of what is going on inside an engine.

Also the tests were done with different viscosities so they cannot be compared to eachother.

I would ignore this test if i were you

 

With all these posts there is not one "controlled" study evident that definitively directs anyone to any place. Why? Because ot does not not matter which synthetics you use, they all work fine. Cars running hundreds of thousands of miles prove it. Additionally, as someone who has raced all types of cars for 25 years, when we break down the motor's you have know idea which synthetic was used or interchanged. The important thing is to keep the oil at the recommended fill level, keep it clean and always change the filter when changing oil. When was the last time anyone on this thread lost a motor because they used Mobil, Redline, Shell, Quaker State?