slow window lift on 308

I have two 308,s that have really slow window lifts. In fact one of them wont go up all the way without help. I,ve bought the box that is supose to increase the power that the motor puts out and that was a joke. Dave warned me but I didn,t listen. Also on another subject I just got my customer,s 1980 308 gtsi running again after both ignition modules had failed. Dave said they failed because the car was jumped backwards. Any way I sent the modules to gt parts and they repaired them. The car runs great. By the way $500.00 each. Actually a bargain in case you are trying to find new of used part.

 

It's probably the grease inside the window motor gearbox. It hardens after many years. Fairly straightforward (although frustrating) repair. Remove the motor, clean out the grease and replace with new grease, reassemble. Getting the cable routed and adjusted properly is the tricky part. Check the wiring (especially ground connections) and clean all the terminals.

Guys keep selling those "window accelerators" because they are easy to install. It's a scam.

 

There used to be a number of threads regarding this issue.

I did my driver side. took me days to properly re-route the cable as I decided to replace the cable while I was in there. Well after many many hours of frustration it is not that much faster.

 

I refurbished my windows by resolving the gear grease problem, changing to ball bearing rollers and making my own accelerators (easy 1 evening project with about $15-$20 in parts for both sides) to circumvent the factory grounding "problem" - all with decent but partial improvement. You can go to an old post of mine from about 1.5 years ago for more details.

http://www.ferrari101.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176675

Before my repairs - one side did nothing up or down except hum and the other would slow to a stop 1/2 way up from too much resistance.

After my repairs - Both sides take about 3 sec down and 6-7 sec up but still are not as "snappy" as I would expect they could be.

My last (pending) improvement will be to get some newer HD motors, thinking that the originals I have now got tired from heavy load resistances through the years.

Regards,

Bob R.

 

A good theory, the motors aren't real high quality even when new. It's reasonable that they are tired from fighting the fight.

 

If I'm going to dive into the whole mess yet again (I know what lies ahead, but I am willing!), how can I go about knowing I'm getting the best quality HD motors available and not just new OEM's?

Can I trust the eBay offerings?

 

Nothing wrong with the OEM motors unless you gonna use them in the space shuttle. Even then...probably be ok. Just restore factory condition and don't toss the relay...it'll work better when motor/gear is clean.

Lesson learned is post stupid thoughts here before taking rash action, as we've all been there and can compare notes. These cars all have about 20 standard issues to be worked through to restore factory condition.

 

Get Birdman's fuse block - his windows go up and down like greased lightning.

 

I won't go so far as to call the accelerators a "scam" (because I want to be "perceived" as a nice guy), but I will say the rest of the post is dead on. This is exactly what needs to be done, and the windows will go up and down easily and at regular speed.

Michael

 

I'd say it is a scam because of the price, not the result. I built my own via plans posted by a gent on this website (search is your friend, however, if you can't find them, I'll send the schematics). I never took out and opened up the motors. After taking a look at the cable routing I bypassed that step. I have the Bman fuseblocks, cleaned the switch contacts, greased the pulleys, LOOSENED THE TENSIONER PULLEY and installed the "accelerators" in the door. My windows go up and down quickly (not fast) with no problems. They've done that for the past year. Honestly, do a search on this problem. It has been written up repeatedly with every option discussed.

EDIT: Found a link that also contains another link: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=224752

 

While we are discussing this issue, can anyone define what is fast for me?

My windows now take 3-4 sec to go down and about 5-7 sec up. The (original) motors sound mildly straining too. That after I did a complete renovation of all related in door components, including the run channel felt.

Overall, they appear slower than the power windows in my truck by about 1/2.

What would everyone here consider fast, or at least OEM for that matter.

 

I would check the voltage at the motor. Compare with battery volts to see if there are any wire issues.

 

My 84 qv w/stock fuse box passanger window got to the point where it wouldn't go up by itself.
I had earlier purchased the accelerators from europe, the ebay solid state ones
looked to me to have rather small size wires.
The accelerators gave the windows a moderate speed increase, then I added
a ground wire from the door to the body, this doubled the speed increase,
which I'd say now is good, but not fast.
I also lubed up the pulleys.
I did not remove the motors and change the grease, the cable & spool look
like a nightmare and I don't believe with the gear reduction in the window
motor that the grease can slow things down much.

 

That's because, if you've never actually seen the caked up grease in the motor mechanism yourself, you simply cannot believe how hard it gets. It's absolutely ridiculous. I don't know what kind of grease they used, but I never would have thought any kind of lubricant could turn into cement in 25 years.

 

Once I got them sorted, either window raised in 4-5 seconds with OEM hard grease. The motors look the same as those used on Mercedes, as does the grease.

Grease the cable pulleys, or better yet use clutch cable pulleys (they use a ball bearing), and make sure you have good wiring and ground connections and clean window switch contacts.

 

Believe me, the description of the old grease, as having the consistency of half-cured Bondo, is spot on. I didn't believe it either, until I saw it, and poked at it.

 

What kind of grease do you guys recommend once the old grease are all cleaned up?

 

I used white lithium grease. And yes, the old grease in mine were a greenish gray color, hard and brittle - just like epoxy resin!!! I had to carefully chip it all out. What I could not get out that way I soaked in lacquer thinner overnight, which softened it up enough to brush out from between the gear teeth.

How fast do your windows go up and down Mike?

 

Is it possible Ferrari, or whoever manufactured the motor drives, switched grease type somewhere through production? I have two 77 308's, and all four motor drives still had workable grease. Its very thick, almost wax like yet mushy, but none was hardened anywhere, you could scrape it out like thick heavy lard. I would have to go pop one open to remind myself again, but IIRC the color was kind of a yellowy greenish translucent color. The smell, thickness and color seemed the same as grease I have seen inside drill motors or other electrical gear reductions.

I put one together with lithium grease and left one alone, and they both poke the window up about as fast, thats why I dont believe the grease is the main cause. But of course if your gear drives have some grease thats hard like bondo, I could see that really slowing it down.

 

Paul,

It is possbile your two cars were worked on after the factory. Too many cars have had this problem. Of course the factory could have used multiple types of grease too.

 

In the case of my 83 Mondial, the green, Bondo type, grease was in the original RH door motor gearbox. The LH door motor was newer (dated: 9/91). It had a normal consistancy brownish grease. So somewhere along the line, they changed grease.