Slow windows, easy first try to improve things

So I shouldn't plagiarise the design then.

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Martin, it is possible to get a wire through the wire harness going to the doors. I used a thin welding rod with lots of silicone lube as a snake. I was dreading it, but it was easier than I thought it would be. With separate relays and direct feed to the motors the windows work great.


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Surely they'd be similar designs - Ferrari is not noted for devoting too much R&D to such peripheral things. And if it was changed, I would have thought the 308 one would be more efficient, and draw less current?

 

Good day Patrick,

I would have to check, but I am pretty sure the switch to motor wiring connections are the same. As for the motors...The 365 window motor/gearbox is very similar to my Boxer's setup (which should be pretty close to the 308), however, the motor characteristics would be different. I did not dig deep enough to determine if the differences were because of the different motors and/or the different motor load (different window cable routing, window weight difference, and friction differences in the window tracks). I would imagine it should be pretty close... but as you know, I am a stickler for details and do not like to gamble on assumptions. One thing is for sure, the relays I chose can accommodate a lot of current ... about 30A. These relays were targeted and marketed for motor control and are used for auto windows, sunroofs, etc. It is too bad that the manufacturer discontinued them. However, there is a replacement, but its current capability is lower (20A).

Going further I was toying with the idea of making the window controls a bit smarter. Effectively I would forgo the relays and control the relays electronically (FET based) and add smarts... For example, I could make the controller such that if you momentarily press the window button the window goes all the way by itself... or perhaps a slight press and go to preset height. If you simply press and hold the button you control the window's range as you do now. Effectively there is a lot of things one could do (remote control via bluetooth, auto slight open if the interior temp got too warm, etc)... the question would be be... does one really need all these "features"? For now I am staying where I am at and simply using my old school relay system. If I do decide to go more modern I can easily replace my relay module with smart(er) one... and will post up in 365 or Boxer threads... as I have already overly hijacked Martin's thread... My apologies Martin for my babbling!

Cheers,

Sam

 

Hello Martin,
I found the wiring diagram for the 1981 308 and it already has a relay for the power windows. I suppose you have probably checked this out already. The 328 uses the same setup. I'll post the diagram just in case it can help.

John.

 

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Isn't that relay just for direction, up or down? It's not there to reduce current through the switch right?

 

No, the relay just supplies power, but you are correct about the current through the switch

Hi John,
The relay is pretty much useless as a way of getting more power to the window motor. AFTER the relay, the current goes though the fuse box, then the switch, then the motor, with quite a few connector blocks along the way. A relay just before the motor is what's needed. That way the motor gets maximum volts, and the wiring only has to handle switching current

 

Morning Patrick,
See your point and makes a lot of sense. Without a relay powering the motor you end up burning the switch, haven't followed the circuit, yet it it's routed as you say, the relay in the fuse panel is as you say "useless".

Thanks!

John.

 

De nada

 

Hi All,
I'm investigating a slow window on my '85 QV. Wanting to eliminate the easy things first, can anyone tell me where the window motors/switches ground out to? Is it in the doors, under the dash, under the console?
Thanks, BB