Solving heat and noice problems in cabin

Keeping this thread alive.

Well it's now October and in between a checkup at Fast Cars and a detailing done by Jason (thanks to both) the car is now going through sound deadening.

Man! There is a lot of foam/heat material in the trunk!

I of course I had to take it all out to lay down the B-quiet and am now in the process of reinstalling the original materal.

I have to switch to roll on adhesive to reinstall. I don't want to risk normal spray on since the car was just detailed.
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Whats that stack weigh?

 

It's a lot of foam and heat material but it is all very light.

 

Heat in cabin especially the footwell? Check.

The Gleggy/Sr vented access panel looks great and if Mr Helms sells them I have reason to believe they help (move hot air out of the front of the car). However, the Gt4 panel is different to the 308.

After seeing someone else use lightweight hardware store sourced vents I picked up these two from a local hardware store - $2.99 for the small one and $3.99 for thw larger. They also had them in white.

Both fit the Gt4 panel (I had a new panel made by a local hvac guy a while back as the old one was ratty and torn around the bolt holes) and I thought, damn it, I'll use the big one.

Tools needed
- socket to remove the panel
- market pen and yardstick to mark the panel and creat cut lines
- grinder to cut the panel (metal shears might also work, but the grinder worked great
- punch to mark the rivet holes in the panel
- drill for the rivet holes
- short rivets and a rivet gun

That's all folks! Took about an hour as I have a hoist so the panel was out and back in in a flash. I'm hoping this will be part of the solution to lower cabin temps.

Nb these louvres are really lightweight but as long as you dont ground the car they should work fine, and can easily be bent back into place. I left the light mesh on the rear of the louvres to discourage creepy crawlies from nesting inside.
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continued

note the final picture shows the vented panel re-installed, camera facing toward the front bumper. the fins aren't bent, you are seeing the piping behind the louvers. The panel had six pre drilled holes, and I added 2 left and right to get the panel nice and flush with the louvers. So that's 8 rivets. This was an easy and cheap job which I think will pay dividends (but not solve the problem of hot feet entirely).
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Leslie, I don't know if they make a panel for the GT4 but as per my post you can modify your panel pretty easily. I used to live in Singapore so can full appreciate any improvement in cabin temperature would help!

I'd snoop around the hardware stores to look for a vent, or aircon supply stores. Remove the panekl from your car, clearly mark which side faces up and which side down, and which side is to the front (so the vent is put on the right side facing the right way!!!!). Take your panel and vent to a metal fabrication shop (could be the aircon guys) and ask them to cut a neat hole and rivet it neatly (making sure they get the right side and direction).

Most importantly, don't tell them its for a ferrari! Hopefully, some handy ah-pei will have it done for $10 in 10 minutes..enough time for some quick makan!

 

Some temp readings for reference after driving in 75 degree weather with A/C on and off intermittently. 45 min+. Mainly stop and go traffic.

The second test layer of B-Quiet ultimate seems to add an additional 8 degrees which I believe will increase once I cover all the primary layers with a second one.

If you look close you can see the rivet nuts in the front so that the spare tire bucket can be removed easily without drilling out the rivets each time.
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Larger pic of the finished job
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Hey Guygowrrie

It looks like a possible improvement. Were you able to take any readings before the alteration to see if there is any decrease in heat?

I guess you could always block off the openings temporary to get a before and after reading.

 

Yes, I am very sure u lived in singapore before when you said dont tell them it's Ferrari else it will be alot more $ instead of $10 , totally agree

I have the vent for my 308 GTS , worst case I get the same vent from GTS and modify into GT4


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Tricycle...regret I'm not that scientific! When the car is hot, running and parked I may put my hand underneath when the fans come on and see if much air is coming out the vents.

 

Leslie, the Ferrari premium is unfortunately a worldwide phenomena!

 

Hi Guygowrie,congratulation , i like your work , i think it is useful to gt 4 .
Can you tell ,please , dimensions of air grill?
Thank you v. m.
Ciao from Italy
Antonino

 

Classic! Neat photo and solution.

 

Wowzer, nice job there! Greatly appreciate you sharing this. I insulated under my rear trunk lid matting, seemed to help but I didn't measure. Thanks again.

Also put a 'lava mat' atop the exhaust heat shield, so at least I can no longer bake a raw potato in there.

My front trunk is still an issue, but I was/am very hesitant to drill out rivets. Did that on my 512TR for another 'front trunk issue' (not heat, but water intrusion) and remember it being no fun.

I like your wrapped water pipe, that looks within my skillset, as does cutting the air intrusion gaps getting by the rad and past the bulkhead.

 

I don't think drilling out the rivets was that big a deal in the front. The only thing I stressed on was making sure the metal shaving didn't land inadvertently on the paint and cause me to scratch the body while leaning against it.


The wrap for the pipe is pretty simple since they now sell rolls with your size diameter with velcro sides. I just added a few zip ties near the end and bend to keep it secure.

But overall I am happy how much the temp is dropping all the way around

Though there is still a lot to do...

___________________________________
You Keep Using That Word, I Do Not Think It Means What You Think It Means

 

I drove the car for the first time after installing the vent on the weekend. 100plus mile round trip. The ambient temps are low now ofcourse being almost winter but I didnt have nearly as much hot feet as I usually do. Usually within say half an hour the footwell is pretty warm.

On the return journey usually the vents are pre-heated from the initial drive, and stay hot. This time they started hot, but cooled down as we drove.

Obviously, ambient temps played a big part, but I do feel the vent has helped draw hot air out of the front compartment. More real world experiments needed when the ambient temp is hotter.

Guy

 

Guy,
Had to laugh at your tag line - just completed a tarmac rally which went right through... Bonney Doon! Disrupted the serenity somewhat. (BTW, the holiday house from the movie is up for sale - have a look online)

 

Someone finally got it! I'm a long way from 'home' so a quote like that brings back some good memories. I did a stags weekend houseboat trip once on Bonney Doon.... What a disaster!

Time to watch the powerboat scene on you tube!

 

Ive been driving my 87 esprit lately. I have to say that there is NO heat intrusion into the passenger cabin. It is interesting because the Esprit has no air vents on the hood like on the 308. However, the bottom is open so that it vents.

Make me believe that the 308 is too closed and allows the heat to build up in the footwell area. Just another observation.

I have noticed that you can remove the shield panel and drive with out it on the 308. Helps alot....although I have no heat readings.

 

The airflow is inverted on the Esprit as you mention. Air comes in from the top of the rad and ejects at the bottom under the car. Also there is less heat from the flow/return pipes owing to the chassis backbone being much bigger.
The overall level of heat/sound insulating material used is also greater.
Add to that the fantastic A/C in the Esprit which chucks out masses of air at 5 degrees C if turned up full.

 

I recently blocked the intake to the gt4's heater valve as I suspected that it wasn't closing fully.

Today I removed the heater control valve, cleaned it up and the ran water through it while 'closed'. Sure enough water was still running even with the valve fully closed. Obviously, the rubber plunger inside has deteriorated after 40 years.

It's not serviceable so will need a new one.
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Water running despite closed valve. No way to access the plunger which is cast in
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Good recommendations. bump

 

While my engine is out and the long coolant pipes as well I was thinking I should try some ideas on heat reduction. Has anyone wrapped the pipes in header thermal tape?