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Testarossa clutch bleeding steps

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by 90TR, Nov 29, 2016.

  1. 90TR

    90TR Formula Junior

    Nov 23, 2005
    268
    Celebration, FL
    Full Name:
    Bill
    Hi everyone, I am having trouble getting a good bleed on the clutch after replacing the throw out bearing. What have you guys found to be the best procedure for getting this done?
     
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  3. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Two Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    27,158
    Austin TX
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    Brian Crall
    It can be hard to force air downhill. If it has had enough fluid through it to come out clean and the pedal is returning on it's own (not sticking to the floor) try and rapidly pump it 30 or so times. That can actually free an air pocket and get it back to the reservoir. Had it work many times. Doesn't work on brakes but the difference in operation of a clutch hydraulic system can allow it.
     
  4. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,743
    southwest germany
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    romano schwabel
    I agree with brian, sometimes I do the same when it not works right with "normal bleeding".

    when you are 2 persons you can do the following:
    one sits inside the car and push the pedal. the other then open the screw at the throw out bearing and wait until there is coming nothing anymore. then close the screw and the driver will push again the pedal and so 2nd man opens the srew again. this you could try several times, but always look at the reservoir if there is still fluid in. the line for the clutch comes out in about half high of the reservoir and up to this point there has always to be fluid in, otherwise you will start again from new
     
  5. ozziindaus

    ozziindaus F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 16, 2012
    7,198
    Detroit
    Full Name:
    Sam
    I tried with a brake bleeder pump (Mityvac) until my hand all but broke off. Had a buddy pump the peddle which worked immediately.

    Are you loosing fluid? Is your reservoir dropping? Could fluid be leaking past of a "rolled" TO bearing seal?
     
  6. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 29, 2008
    5,011
    Madison Ohio
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    David A.
    Sometimes the Vac pump doesn't work. The air will leak around the the bleeder screw threads and not get a complete vacuum. You could try some teflon tape around the bleeder screw. The two system works best. I bribe the wife into it.
     
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  8. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    I used a Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder when I recently did my boxer. It worked great and pulled the fluid right through took seconds.
     
  9. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,743
    southwest germany
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    romano schwabel
    I also have a pneumatic brake fluid bleeder and mostly it works fine. but sometimes the brakelines are so mounted that at the highest point there is still some air. so best would be a pulsating brake fluid bleeder with this you have no problems, but it is not cheap
     
  10. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,938
    Before pumping the reservoir's old fluid towards the engine, the reservoir is best drained and filled with fresh fluid.

    I have yet to find a good way to drain the clutch reservoir.

    Any ideas?

    Cheers,
    Vincenzo
     
  11. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Two Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    27,158
    Austin TX
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    Brian Crall
    Turkey baster. No big worry though because the entire systems fluid is just as old and just as dirty. I only suck out what I can as a labor saver, it has no other benefit. On a TR because of the slave cylinder design the fluid gets a lot of black debris in it and it makes a mess of the master cylinder reservoir. At a clutch change I think it is a good idea to remove it and wash it. There is no way to get it clean in the car. There is also no real way to keep it clean. Routine fluid changes only do so much.
     
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  13. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,938
    #10 vincenzo, Nov 30, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Yes, the baster works great.... on the TR however, the reservoir is divided between the brake and clutch side. You can see it here with the backlighting. The brake side has easy access, but the front (clutch) side does not allow for a hose to be snaked into the clutch reservoir.

    Do folks peel off the sensor cap? Does it come off easily and without damage?

    Cheers,
    Vincenzo
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  14. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,743
    southwest germany
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    romano schwabel
    once I removed the sensor cap and put in on again and was thinking all has been fine.
    but when I wanted to bleed the system with my pneumatic bleeder is was leaking. so I would do this never again

    but you also may rinse through about 1 ltr of brake fluid, then the old is also away and it looks fine again.

    but please all remember: dirty brake fluid is not a sign of bad brake fluid. the brake fluid takes water (air humidity ) up and so the boiling point goes drastically down from around 290 °C to under 160 °C and then it will get dangerous when the fluid becomes this temperature and you have no right pressure anymore.

    so yearly change your brake fluid ! ! !
     
  15. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Jul 25, 2008
    13,305
    Amersfoort, Holland.
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    Mel
    I left the fluids two years in, no problem noticed .... :D
     
  16. ants2au

    ants2au Formula Junior

    Nov 19, 2003
    690
    Sydney Australia
    Full Name:
    Anthony
    It seems this question has been asked a few times, but nobody ever answers it.
    How do you fill or empty the front reservoir?? As in how do you take the sensor cap off? Is it pried off??? Could someone please go through this step??
     
  17. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Two Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    27,158
    Austin TX
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    Brian Crall
    Just curious. Why would you want to? You can loosen a line , or take off the master and turn it over, but again I see no reason to do so.
     
  18. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,938
    Why?
    To remove debris/ water from the system rather than flushing it deeper into the system.

    Ant2au... never found a reasonable way to remove the clutch fluid, but rifledriver’s idea on a turkey baster works for brake fluid if a suction device is unavailable. Flushing it down line is just one more reason why a routine fluid change is recommended.

    This is my method... great for all around shop use:
     

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  19. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Dec 9, 2003
    13,154
    wisconsin/chicago
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    bo
    I used a brake refill pressure pump at 5 PSI ($45 or so) worked great, took 10 seconds... Makes bleeding the brakes easy too...

    Heres an example, get the one with the Porsche fitment...same as the Ferrari... I use the same pump on my 930/Ferrari/ and bmw...

    https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-100-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DV2I/ref=asc_df_B00CJ5DV2I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312634019511&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12822363150919932634&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018827&hvtargid=pla-568407457373&psc=1
     
  20. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,938
    Just to clarify....

    The extractor (shown above) is a suction device to pull the old fluid out of the reservoir before bleeding.
    The Motive pressurizes the reservoir to force fresh fluid throughout the system.

    Comment/Question:
    I dread the thought of brake fluid under pressure and possibly spraying down the paint. Because of that, I’ve used a pneumatic suction device similar to the one shown below. Mixed results.

    Has anybody had problems with a Motive bleeder spraying brake fluid?
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  21. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
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    Dec 9, 2003
    13,154
    wisconsin/chicago
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    bo
    I pressurize to 5-10 psi and place the pump in a bucket. At 10 psi might drip, that’s it...
     
  22. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
    Professional Ferrari Technician Consultant

    Sep 18, 2002
    15,623
    The Cold North
    Full Name:
    Tom
    Use a good pressure bleeder on the brake master. It will also pressurize the clutch master. Set the pressure bleeder to 15psi, put a hose on the clutch slave bleeder, and set it in a clear bottle with a bit of brake fluid in it. Submerge the end of the hose in the fluid. Open the bleeder and wait until all bubbles are gone.

    Release brake pressure bleeder and check the clutch pedal feel. Repeat if necessary.

    Easy as pie.
     
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