Testarossa Motor Pull - What to Replace

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Hoogen, Apr 14, 2020.

  1. Hoogen

    Hoogen Rookie

    Apr 1, 2020
    Full Name:
    Craig Mitchell
    Hey all,

    I just finished dropping the motor on a 1986 Testarossa for a timing belt service and was wondering if there is anything else i should look at replacing while the motor is pulled. This car will be going up for sale once the motor is back in so anything that’ll help resale would be helpful.

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  3. Veedub00

    Veedub00 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Jun 30, 2006
    Troy, Michigan
    Full Name:
    It depends on what price you are hoping to get. How many miles on it? When was its last service? Does it have TRX tires on it? When was it last driven? Did it have any engine issues before the service? Has the diff been replaced?
  4. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 29, 2008
    Madison Ohio
    Full Name:
    David A.
    At a minimum replace any and all hoses that look suspect! Injector o-rings.
  5. Grease Donkey

    Grease Donkey Rookie

    Jul 5, 2018
    Zurich, Switzerland
    "while you are there":

    Cheap replacements with standard OEM parts:
    - Fuel pumps (Bosch). I would always do this. Old pumps may draw too much current and overheat the fuse box.
    - Fuel injectors brass version (Bosch) if steel version present (coroded internaly due to bio fuel/alcohol)
    - Fuel injector o-rings (I think there are 2 different per injector)
    - Relays for fuel injection (and others if you like; I would prioritze lights and windows)
    - ignition modules (observed significant torque increase with new ones)
    - spark plugs
    - clutch slave o-rings
    - cooling water and clutch bleeding valves

    Not so cheap (suggestion: if not replaced then a picture is convincing for the buyer)
    - Ignition rotor and cap
    - ignition cables
    - waterpump (picture of seal if not replaced)
    - clutch (re-build is enough)

    - differential non-welded version
    - exhaust upgrade

    other things to do:
    - clean brake fluid reservoir and then bleed brake and clutch extensively (sometimes inverse bleeding of clutch is required (i.e. fresh fluid pressed into valve at clutch not reservoir) if there is too much dirt in the system)
    - clean ground on battery and dismantle/clean battery switch + connecting cables (testing method: do windows move faster with engine running?)
    - add cleaner and flush cooling water several times
    - grease hood locks and axis holding clutch/break/throttle paddles (old grease is no longer doing it's job)

    Hope this is what you're looking for ...
  6. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

    Jan 28, 2004
    Dubai, UAE
    A few reasonably inexpensive things you can consider:

    Replace the large diameter hose that connects the fuel tanks (can turn soft and leak with age). Technically, you can do this with the engine in place, but while you are in there it is cheap insurance.
    Replace the two cloth wrapped small diameter vent hoses for the fuel tanks on the rear bulkhead. They dry rot (mine crumbled in my fingers) and are a fire hazard if left in place. Be careful removing them as you can tear the small soft alloy fittings of the fuel tanks.
    Replace both your thermostats (cheap insurance).
    Replace the small rubber bushing in the clevis where your shifter rod connects to your transmission (improves shifter feel).
    Look at the seal on the shifter rod which exits the transmission - if it leaks, it is more work to fix with the engine in.
    Consider changing your oil pressure gauge sender as current replacements are more cheaply made and fail more often; it is difficult to change them when the engine is back in the car as you need a large wrench and the bulkhead gets in the way.
    Consider changing the radiator fans if they are original as they will draw a lot of current by now.
    Replace brake flex hoses if original (superformance sells reasonably priced braided steel upgraded versions)
    Check if coolant bleed nipples in the corners of the engine bay are corroded and will not open - if so, it is easier and safer to apply heat, etc., before you put the engine back
    Check your CV joint boots for splits (again, you can remove and replace them with the engine in the car, but it will be easier with the car out.
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