Dear Ferraristi, 1. Measure twice....cut once.. 2. Test crimp a sucess...for real this time... 3. & 4. Hmmm....found resistors soldered into the "thermo time switch" Can anyone elaborate why this would be done? Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, 1. On to the next plug...hmm...this is getting easier... 2. Clean plug to death... 3. & 4. Clean all other plugs and condition with Caig Progold G5 ( High-end Audio connection cleaner) Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Your better off waiting until you have enought time to do the complete job.. Its really not that hard and the best part Shamile is that you can do two plugs per day , every other day etc.. and continue to use vehicle. The rest for the top is the entire kit.. Looking good.... R
Dear Ferraristi ....last night... Mandy (?) 1. Before.... 2. After.... Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You can do the rest of the system after you put it back on the road but it is a good idea to have the "tune" checked before you do the entire kit and then have it retuned after. You will see a difference in the fuel/air mixtures change if nothing else. I found that I had better hot and cold starts after the kit was installed.
Talk to Mister Helms about those resistors. He has a background in electrical engineering and can probably tell you exactly what affect those have on the switch. I'M NOT AN EXPERT but I would hazard a guess that those alter the "time" of the "Thermo-Time Switch" which probably alters the cold start/air pump activation-cut-off times.
What a bizarre modification that sort of works against itself. Can you confirm that they are both 1000 Ohm resistors? If they are: 1. The 1000 Ohm resistor in the BL (white/blue) wire would greatly slow the heating inside the thermotime switch so it would stay closed longer during starter motor cranking when cold, and fire the cold start injector for a longer time (if there were no other modifications); however, 2. The 1000 Ohm resistor in the RV (red/green) wire would probably prevent relay U from closing so the cold start injector would never fire during starter motor cranking when cold. The way the stock system works (on a US version TR) is, when the TTS is cold, the contacts inside the TTS are closed -- which connects terminal 85 of relay U to ground (via the RV wire). When you start the engine (key in Pos III), +12V appears on terminal 30 and 86 of relay U -- this closes relay U, which connects terminal 30 (which is at +12V as long as the key is in Pos III) to terminal 87 which goes to fire the cold start injectors. Since there is now a 1000 Ohm resistor in series with the ~150 Ohm coil of relay U, my guess would be that relay U never actuates (even though the TTS stays closed longer) -- so your cold start injectors never fire. I know that you are in Florida Shamile, so maybe not a big deal for you, but the way to test this is to hook a 12V test light between the orange wire in the j connector and ground that you can see from the Drivers seat when you do a cold start. The way it should work is: 1) for the first second, or two, of initial dead-cold starter motor cranking, the test light should illuminate (showing that relay U is closed and the cold start injectors are firing), 2) After a couple seconds (when the TTS opens and relay U opens) the light should go out even if the starter motor is still cranking. PS The technical data in the TR WSM on pages D18 and D39 are for the TTS used on the euro K-Jet TR. The US TR uses a different TTS that only has internal heater coil W1 -- there is no W2 heater coil so the resistance values in Tab. 4 do not apply. Good hunting! Image Unavailable, Please Login
I could understand maybe the one on the TTS if you lived very high and in a very cold climate but on both makes no sense. I suspect it was a misguided attempt to fix something.
Dear Ferraristi, Thanks Steve/ Rifledriver...they're coming out! Steve...1000 ohms....on the money. I think my cold starts weren't working. One time, I was looking for some running issue and pulled the plug on the cold start just after I started the car cold one morning....no change in the engine pitch.... I wonder......everytime I start the car cold, it only starts on the second crank.....I mean for the last 10 years ...like clockwork. Crank...catches and dies. Second crank...sputter to life. But if the car is warm....VROOM ! right on the first crank. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, Since I was stuck on the resistor issue, I could only move on one plug... 1. strip wire....very close. I used the old connector as a guide for the stripped wire length. 2. wire just crimped using Dave Helm's loaned tool 3. Oooh...gold ! 4. Looks OEM ! Tomorrow, I can move on the next plug. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Definitely a sign that your cold start injectors aren't working IMO -- my TR starts (and stays running) on the first crank, cold or warm, winter or summer (in CO or TX ). If there been stale fuel in the lines and cold start injectors for 10+ years, they might not wake-up too happy...just a (bad) thought (in case, for example, they stick open or shut after you get the electrics working)...
I can't believe it! I can't believe that you actually cleaned the intake valves! But now I'll be disapointed if you don't clean the exhaust valves as well!!! Nice looking gals too! John
Dear Ferraristi, Oh....man, 2 birthdays....two double pint sz. Long Islands later.... 1. Brittany's 22nd Birthday! Gency (20) on right 2.Megan (24) Megan (23rd!) on right 3. Brittany (22nd! ) Katie (21) Kay (21) Coco (22) ....back to my normal... 4. Oh...yeah...this is what I was working on... While I was waiting for more connectors and the board's advice on what to do with the resistors...cleaning cleaning and more cleaning valves... I removed the resistors and put the connectors back to normal. What the "hack" was compensating for....we'll find out when the car goes back together. Of course, it'll be fixed properly! Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, 1. Clean valves ! GM top end cleaner (4 days of soaking) , then pick tool, Throttle body cleaner, then pick tool, Q tips ! Rotate engine....contine.... 2. All valves done ! Gawd....would it ever get done.... 3. With the board's advice, the last coolant sensor done 4. The Dave Helms coolant sensor mods done! Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, 1. Katie (21) 2. Ohhh looky! More connectors from Dave Helms. To clarify.... Dave sent me the improved connectors with my hoses because he felt it important to do it while I was in there. Sooo....since I was in there, I asked to buy the rest of the connectors for the top of the engine. Dave then explained to me that he really doesn't sell them by sub package but the whole complete kit....the only way he can make something on it. I didn't know this at the time but Dave helped me out with the rest. For the future, I can only buy the COMPLETE engine bay kit and that' the way it's sold. I thought I should put this out there as I thought you could just buy what was needed. Dave will be coming up with a price soon which includes all the tools and brushes. He felt it was necessary to add the tool cost as all the loaners never came back. I was surprised to find out he's lending me his actual shop tools...not loaners. Well, priority on the connectors and get his tools back to him! Thanks Dave! 3. Cold start 7/12 done 4. Differential pressure switch done BTW, can someone tell me if there is a specific direction to the spade connector (red / purple) ? Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, 1. Cold start 1/6 done including TPS 2. Ooooh gold! 3. Oh oh.....umm Dave, need your help here!! As soon as I pulled the spades out of the O2 sensor plugs...crumble! The spades are functional but...!! 4. Oh....you got to be kidding! The last 2 plugs on the top of engine job are the O2 sensor plugs. Well....the original sealant worked it's way into the molded plug because of the heat from the muffler. Oh man!! ....what was a 20 minute job turned into 4 hours...just to get all the sealant out of both plugs. 3M wax and tar remover dissolved the sealant without hurting the plastic plug itself. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, 1. UGH! 2. 4...umm...5 hours later! 3. ..don't let me leave it like this! 4. Whow.....wasted winghouse girls Casey (24) and Nora (19) ...this is going to get good... Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Greetings.. Shamile... all is looking good... bythe time your done you'll be about 50% done thru the connectors.. Mine as well finish the job and get her all done.. She is looking good.. I never replaced those blade connectors (from green wires) for the 02 sensors.. only the female terminals in the two terminal plug.... Did you get those from Dave? I hope you did not make an error or did they just crumple from the heat..? Got my car back on the road today.. rear brakes, DONE.. and done right..!! Those plugs were a job to remove that baked on sealant.. I used a very shart exacto knife and scored the sealant, then with some needle nose pliers started pealing away while slicing some more as I went.. Took some time but it is well worth it.. Don't mix up those green wires going to the o2 sensor.. She will run like sh*t.. R
Dear Ferraristi, Hi Robbie, I'll do the rest on a next project. A Ferrari is really like an onion....so easy to keep peeling back layer after layer. I really need to stay focused on the job at hand. Yes, the sealant worked it's way into the female plugs and even with the removal tool, it wouldn't come out. I had to do exactly as you mentioned....use a sharp hobby knife and slice away ever so gently. Then I had to soak with the 3M remover and pick with the pick tools...more remover...pick tools...then soaked Qtips. It took all day yesterday! YES...about the green spades. I marked as I pulled everything and I noticed that the black green wire was to the white and vice versa. I don't know how much of a difference it would have made as those are only the heater wires. BUT....back to the way it should be.... Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
Dear Ferraristi, With all the terminals done except for the broken O2 heater wires...on the the coolant castings... 1. Simple green and my trusty toothbrush.... 2. Cut the old hose away every so gently. You DO NOT want to put any score on the castings or tubes. I slice, use a flat blade to pry up and slice with a NEW utility blade gently until I can place my finger underneath. I then pull away and slice...all the while slicing AWAY from any fingers.....yeah...been there...done that.. 3. Old hoses removed 4. I use 3M scotch brite to clean the area where the hose clamps down. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, 1. Ashley (19) 2. Yeah....I'm coming for you soon.... 3. scrub....scrub...scrub.... Shamile Freeze.....Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, ...as soon as I learn how to pull the engine, I'll do the exhaust valves... Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice !
No, there's no specific polarity needed for the spade connector with the R (red) and ZN (purple/black) wires that attaches to the electrovalve for activating/deactivating the air injection system's cut-off valves.
