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The BORA

Discussion in 'Maserati' started by wbaeumer, Aug 11, 2011.

  1. staatsof

    staatsof Six Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 13, 2005
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    Bob
  2. thecarnut

    thecarnut Formula 3
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  3. staatsof

    staatsof Six Time F1 World Champ
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  4. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    395
    FYI
    Maserati Bora
    1973 Maserati SOLD $179,200 USD
    Bora 4.9 EST. PRICE $170K-$210K USD
    EXTERIOR Red/Brushed Steel
    BONHAMS
    INTERIOR Black
    Lot 176 Monterey
    ODOMETER 36776 mi
    CHASSIS Nº AM117/49/588
    August 16, 2019 5:51PM
     
  5. staatsof

    staatsof Six Time F1 World Champ
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    Have a link as to what the car looked like?
     
  6. thecarnut

    thecarnut Formula 3
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  7. staatsof

    staatsof Six Time F1 World Champ
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    Oh my! You have to look at the photo on the Bonhams website so see the "added shock tower brace".

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    It is pretty clean though just not terribly correct.

    That's a pretty good price here in the US for the seller for a non top flight car.
     
  8. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    395
    Clean, shiny, run of the mill US Bora. But a Bora nonetheless! Somebody made a sound investment they can also enjoy!
     
  9. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula Junior

    Jul 15, 2012
    673
    New York and Norway
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    Art
    Buon giorno tutti,

    Passenger side rear suspension disassembly took place this afternoon.. Nothing terribly unconventional, I followed the general outline I posted in #663 above, but in fact it appears the [CV joints and] 1/2 shaft doesn't need to be removed. The outer hub assembly with rotor, brake caliper and parking brake all stays together and connected, you just cover it with plastic and leave it temporarily hanging from a wire.

    Now comes the problem - the new bushings from MEI are .030" longer than the originals, and I double checked the new bushings against their perch-mounts and they don't even friction fit.

    This means it will be Royal #!%&@$ pain in my rear to manhandle the A-arms back into place.. I am most definitely not looking forward to having to try jamming these !@&%^$#$ 'ers back into place.

    So, before I press out the old and press in the new - I'm going to try using a 20ton press to literally squish the new bushings shorter. Got any other suggestions - or just Wish me Luck!

    Grazie,
    - Art


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  10. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
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    W
    Why don't you send them back---
    I am sure we can track down the correct ones if you wish!

    Regards.
     
  11. staatsof

    staatsof Six Time F1 World Champ
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    Time to call Jacques and find out what's what!

    I have a full set of his as well as set of Delrin ones that were made in the early 1990s. When I redid my rear of the car the originals were just too good to change, only 3K miles on the car.
     
  12. GLB

    GLB Formula Junior

    Oct 27, 2010
    272
    That got my attention - I'd replaced the bushings on one side some time ago when I dismantled the subframe, but I never checked to see if they fit. They didn't - same problem. Fortunately, on mine the center tube was enough shorter than the overall dimension that I could use just a vise to push the side washers on until flush. Now they both fit - friction fit, but not difficult. I should have checked at the time. I also bought upper rear damper bushings and discovered that the center hole was too small for the through bolt. I had to get a 16mm ream to "fettle" them (finally found a use for that word).
     
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  13. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula Junior

    Jul 15, 2012
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    Art
    #688 71Satisfaction, Sep 2, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2019
    MASERATI BORA REAR SUSPENSION BUSHINGS REPLACEMENT, at least according to Art Harvey, September 2, 2019… individual results may vary.


    I just finished removing and replacing the bushings on all four rear A-arms, swaybar links and shock absorbers.

    The whole job required 23 hours of my labor.

    1.) A-arm bushings: All of the 8 bushings were .030-.040 over. Even an extra group of 3 I had leftover from the front suspension I did 4 years ago were the same over-dimension. There was no reason to assume MIE would find any proper sized from their inventory. No reason to move backwards. Same as you: It wasn't hard using a 20ton press and to get them all down to the right size of 1.840".. and even then I "pinched" one side of the washers to bias or taper them for easy fit into their brackets.

    2.) Upper and Lower shock absorber bushings: Hm... I had no problems with those dimensionally.


    REAR SUSPENSION BUSHINGS REPLACEMENT.


    - Place wheel chocks on front tires to prevent your Bora from moving.
    - Loosen rear lug nuts.
    - Install and tighten spring compressors on main rear springs. Tighten until you sense the rear is squatting - 1/2” or more.
    - Jack up the rear of the Bora to finish ”unseat” the springs and bring them off their perches.
    - Remove the upper shock mount nut (7/8”-22mm). Pull the upper shock bolt out forwards to disconnect from the upper shock mount.
    - Unbolt the bottom shock mount 19mm bolt.
    - Extract the shocks and springs, leaving the spring compressors installed!
    - Leave drive shafts installed (in photo below I removed one side to reseat one loose boot).
    - Use a length of wire to temporarily suspend the main hub assemblies in their “natural” loaded position. I hung my wire from the rear hood gas strut bracket.

    Shock and spring assemblies:
    - Pull the 1/2-ring keepers from the lower shock plate to separate the shocks from the springs, leave springs compressed!
    - Use a sharp knife to remove exposed rubber material such that the socket you use for pressing the old bushing out, mates “steel-to-steel” for best transfer of force.
    - Use a press to break loose old bushings.
    NOTE: My upper shock mounts had leftover welding snots INSIDE THE BORE that had caught the bushing sleeves and required the full power of the 20t press to break loose. See photo below.
    - Complete the removal and reinstall new shock mount bushings.
    NOTE: Upper and Lower bushings are different! The larger bolt bore goes in the Upper mount. The smaller bolt bore goes in the Lower.
    NOTE: If you know a classic Mopar mechanic, you might ask to borrow their Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool it fits the outer tube and inner sleeves really well (aftermarket: American Muscle, Mopar tool #23471, $45.00 available on eBay)


    Upper A-arm:
    - Unbolt the inner 19mm nuts and extract the bolts.
    - Pull the inner mounts free of their brackets.
    NOTE: The upper A-arm brackets are shimmed to achieve wheel alignment. However, these brackets can be misaligned longitudinally, from the front of the A-arm to the back, making the reinstallation of the A-arms very difficult - or make it impossible to pull out the 19mm bolt. If so, without changing the alignment shims, now is the time to get the two upper A-arm brackets aligned longitudinally by loosening the 22mm nuts on the back of the brackets, twisting the brackets into alignment, then re-tightening.
    - Unbolt the outer 22mm nuts and extract the long thru-bolt from the wheel hub assembly.
    - Extract the upper A-arm.
    - Use a press to remove the old bushings. Again, this took a lot of power - wear ear protection for the loud “Crack!” when the bushings break loose.

    NOTE: I used various pipes and sockets to match the diameters of the old bushing during the press operations. I achieved best results with steel-on-steel contact, so devised a method to get rubber parts out of the way. I used a 1/2” deep socket to distort and remove the smaller diameter “washer”. (See photo below). Subsequently, select larger sockets match the bushing’s sleeve - I found a Craftsman 7/8” socket was large enough to press the bushing sleeves out enough without touching or getting stuck in the bore walls of the A-arms. Your situation may vary.


    Lower A-arm:
    - Exactly the same as the lower A-arm.
    - You may find the forward 19mm A-arm bolt can’t be extracted without the exhaust being moved slightly out of the way. Deal with it as necessary.
    - The geometry of the lower A-arm was such that it couldn’t fit into the “jaw” of the 20ton hydraulic press. I used a very large bench vice instead, with extension on the handle. A lot of power was once again necessary.


    Sway bar links:
    - Remove the 19mm nuts.
    - Pull the upper link end off the threaded sway bar end.
    - Put a properly fitting screwdriver into the bushing’s bore and move the bushing into an alignment that let’s it be pulled of the threaded sway-bar end, otherwise it tends to bind up hard. Use the same method for alignment during reinstallation.
    - Press out the old and press in the new swaybar link bushings.


    Helpful notes:
    - You need proper diameter pipes (outside the bores) and sockets (inside the bores) to achieve removal of the bushings. I found that 2” ductile iron plumbing pipe was useful at the A-arms, to fit outside of the bores. The ductile nature of the iron pipe means it distorted and conformed to the uneven geometry of the A-arm while still transmitting the necessary force. See photo below.
    - During the pressing-out procedures, but sure to get the best possible alignment of the sockets you are using against the sleeve of the old bushing before you start pressing out. Your goal is to achieve "steel-to-steel" mating surfaces.
    - PB Blaster seemed to help release the old bushings.
    - I used copper anti-seize on all the new bushings.


    Reinstallation is basically everything above in reverse.

    Photo descriptions:
    - Notice the Upper A-arm brackets are not longitudinally aligned.
    - Destroying the bushing washer to achieve 'steel-to-steel' contact.
    - Typical situation at the press - using pipes and sockets.
    - The ductile pipe distorted itself to conform to the A-arm.
    - Typical situation at the bench vice.. That's the lower A-arm with a 7/8" socket on the "pushing" side and a piece of ductile iron on the other, "receiving" end.
    - The welding snots inside the Upper Shock bore.

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  14. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula Junior

    Jul 15, 2012
    673
    New York and Norway
    Full Name:
    Art
  15. thecarnut

    thecarnut Formula 3
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    Excellent write up on replacing the rear bushings!

    Ivan
     
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  16. thecarnut

    thecarnut Formula 3
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    Hi Art,

    Just sent you a PM.

    Ivan
     
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  17. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula Junior

    Jul 15, 2012
    673
    New York and Norway
    Full Name:
    Art
    #692 71Satisfaction, Oct 10, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2019
    Took all my cars out for a 200 mile Fall Foliage Fundraiser last weekend - The Bora did great, as usual. I shared it with a bunch of other drivers - Lotus, Miata, BMW, Porsche, etc.. The Bora was voted "Most Likely to Break Up Your Marriage" and was graceful enough to wait til we were 5 miles from home before the key broke off in the ignition.. The broken stub pulled out, we hopped in another car, got the spare key and we were back on the road in no time. (The GTV6 got voted "Most Fun to Drive").
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  18. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula Junior

    Jul 15, 2012
    673
    New York and Norway
    Full Name:
    Art
    Nembo1777 likes this.
  19. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    395
    Hello---
    Your Bora is stunning!
    The colors are gorgeous---
    It sits right---

    You are obviously very passionate AND knowledgeable!

    What can I possibly do to convince you to return this amazing car to its God / Alfieri / Giugiaro given heritage---the Euro bumpers?

    Please help!

    Thanks.
    Warmest regards.
     
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