Go to: HQ Auto Lighting - Automotive Lighting Just bought a handful; think 15. Doesn't cost much. Like to have spares around. Regards.
Always great when things work to plan! Drive on in good form/health! PS project culmination a matter of interest all along, and will look for further use notes. New dash lights upgrade is logical to me, and no concern resale-wise I'd bet. Please explain comment re 'spacers'? Sounds like you mean at wheel hubs. Quarter inch? What tires used? Please give specifics in full. Will follow entire experience reports as you may divulge, as those who actually drive the Bora and improve them are doing it right, IMHO. Oil cooler should be another interesting tale/experience/report! Press ON! --NE
You are one the rare good guys out there genuinely interested in our passion. Always happy to share. Yes, 1/4 inch spacers custom machined from billet aluminum. Fit like a glove all around. No rubbing etc. in front; nothing negative to report. Makes the car less squirrelly. Got the idea from my 911s. Original spec 215/70 Pirelli 4000E's on stock rims, from a few years ago. They have disappeared since. Back to the oil radiator... Regards.
Another choice is a laminar style oil-water cooler if your cooling system is up to handling that. It works very well at keeping oil & water at a similar temperature which is desirable. The engine warms up quicker. It might be easier to hide as well. Mocal makes them in various sizes.
Agreed. Either way need to access the engine oil. Thus my search for the specs of a sandwich/adapter plate to access the engine oil from the oil filter housing. Regards.
Just take an oil filter down to a local hot rod shop if you can't find a reference somewhere. I suspect that it's either Ford or Chevy style threads and there are a ton of different style adapters out there that will thread on and seal. Canton has some nice stuff but here are plenty of others. The next thing is figuring which style gives you the best approach for routing the hoses. I've done three cars with remote mounts and more equipment attached. Take care routing the hose (I prototype with radiator hose after I have the layout and fittings attached) so that it has enough slack for no straining during movement of the hose to fittings joint. I just replaced ALL of the hoses up front on my 2005 Jag after only 50K miles because they didn't leave enough hose length and proper orientation to avoid this. I'm sure you'll probably use SS teflon hose for this, most people feel compelled to do so, but ordinary push-lock is plenty good enough. I have push-lock on my race car and for 30 years on my Biturbo. It's inexpensive and requires no special tools for a flawless installation. The hoses on my Biturbo ran for 25 years WO incident until I replaced them last year. The SS braid needs to be covered where it could potentially rub something else. But you shouldn't have any rub spots anyway!
Good points. Gave up looking for a reference. Doesn't appear to exist. Just talked to a friend with a machine shop and a Bora. We are going to machine our own design and call it a day. Will report back results when all is said and done! Regards.
They have a lot of bulbs! Do you remember which ones you bought? Do they dim correctly when you use the dimmer? I really would like to see my gauges at night! Thanks!
Car LED Light Bulb T4W H6W H21W 5x SMD-5050 CanBus WHITE Base: T4W 233 (BA9S) Color: White 6000K Light Chip: Super bright 5050SMD(3 Chips) LED Quantity: 5pcs Brightness Efficiency: 90 LM Operating Voltage: 12V Power Consumption: 2.8W Producer: HQ Auto Lighting Product code: HSUN000275 These are LEDs and work beautifully on the Bora. NO dimming function. BTW my original 1972 Bora setup also had no dimming. It had two settings; bad and worse! Regards.
Any assistance regarding front and rear spring specifications for a Bora would be appreciated. Prior to dis assembly i felt that the rear end was sagging a touch and would like to rectify this during the restoration process. Greg
Yes most of the Boras sagged in the rear not all that long after leaving the factory. Some guys used spacers back when tens of thousands of dollars was just something you didn't do for these cars. Claus Groth (Los Angeles area) obtained the specs and had some made for his Bora which is currently in the hands of Kerry McMullen or it was ... If you contact Claus I bet he'd be happy to share any information he still has. Let me know if you have trouble finding him. Perhaps MIE is offering reproductions? Good luck. Bob S.
Had the same problem a few years back with bottoming out over undulating roads at speed. Got 4 new springs from MIE; actually never needed to install the front ones once the rears were replaced. Problem solved! Regards.
Bob Thank you for steering me in the right direction. I have sent Claus a private message, he was very helpful some time back when i was wanting the procedure to remove the SS roof of my Bora. Regards Greg
I remember what he went through with that roof. The entire car really. It took three paint shops before he got one he liked. He described how he built a special jig for graining the roof. And all those tiny little screws. It's weird that mine never did sag in the rear like so may others. You can spot it in the attitude of A-arms. Good luck with it Greg.
Hi all, I'm close to finish the metal work of my Bora : i've replaced the door skins (both were rotten, attached by the thick paint to the frame), All the floor pan and and bottom sills skins , inner parts were still fine and most of the front (radiator intake) skins. The sills were full of road dirt because of a gap between the sills "skirts" and the perforated external skin of the sills. Even the small luggage compartment behind the driver seat was completely rusted. Now i can focus on important details : I'm searching pictures / basic dimensions / sheet metal thickness of the small part attaching the passenger seat to the strap on the floorpan : I don't have this part, my seat was just attached to the aft lugs welded to the floorpan stiffener. thanks in advance for you help, best
Hi all, I'm seeking info about the part attaching the front section if the seat. I've already redone the two lugs welded to the floor (aft section of the passenger seat) Thanks in advance for your help, best,
Bon soir, Villard, I think I can get the information you need. I will be removing my passenger seat tomorrow morning for a deep cleaning of the leather. I can take some pics and get dimensions of the steel box that supports the front of the passenger seat. If I remember right, there is a steel tongue from this box that slides under a steel strap welded to the floor. I can upload the pics here, or you can PM me your email address. I'd love to see photos of your recent progress. Best, - Art
Yes, a nice coincidence, indeed! Monsieur Villard, I have the seat out, got a bunch of pics. It's best communicated in detail. PM your email and I'll send you photos. And you can ask for more detail if needed. - Art
Hi all For 71 satisfaction : Thanks for the help ! About seats leaning and restoration: Please NEITHER use water+soap or any detergent first on leather. If yours seats are still covered with the original Connolly : You've to impregnate them (brush, warm temperature and sun exposure, several days...) with horse saddle care oil (dubbed "Bull foot oil" in french, funny and direct translation... it's the oil you can find in any sport shop for few $$$) impregnate them to saturation (oil must "sweat" under your finger) then clean them with pure soap and water, no detergent. if you've lip stick, paint, grease stain : use Ketone but Ketone will remove the leather die. (easy to fix with any permanent leather Die of the right color) I've restored my very cracked, dirty, dusty, smelly seats (stored 25 Y under an hangar roof...) like that and they looking like "new" but this beautiful patina. the leather was cracked, very brittle (actually i've restored some areas with "liquid leather" and leather patches) Merci beaucoup, Best
Good evening gentlemen, perhaps some ladies too.. I have a couple of Bora questions to ask; HEADERS: I'm replacing the existing US-spec exhaust manifolds on the 4.9 with the "Euro" headers offered by MIE. Who has done this before and can you kindly offer your lessons learned from the process? Is this an "engine in" or "engine out" operation? I forgot to ask MIE if the ends match up to the stock exhaust leaders. TIRES: The Pirelli 4000 XWX's appear in good shape, but are getting on in age. In anticipation of their eventual retirement (ha, I made a pun!) I'm not finding any new ones being produced. I recall somewhere a discussion regarding Coker or someone re-producing the "old" high-performance radials. Anyway - what tires are you all using as replacements? Or are you going with new rims and modern tires? Cheers, - Art PS - Philippe, thanks for the leather cleaning advice. I live near "horse country" and the local tack shop sold me a really good leather cleaner, plus the replenishment oil. It took me several days, but the interior is now fully cleaned and conditioned.
Art, the XWX are Michelin's not Pirelli (the Pirelli P4000 is another tire) The Merak was fantastic on a fresh set of Michelin XWX, I assume the same goes for the mighty Bora. Try these guys: Vintage Tyres | Longstone Tyres Brgds Kim
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/144578496-post290.html for the headers. The P4000 has been gone for a while. I'm afraid we are stuck. There are a few alternatives out there but nothing as good and reasonable as those were. I'm not a XWX fan. My car came with them and I hated those tires. Perhaps they are much better now? Damn expensive that's for sure.
