Tie rod hitting top of front sway bar link?

ok I thought it could be optical

 

Ok so, tightened off the ground in what position? down up center?

 

And have you talked with Bill at Gt? Not that it would be great help, but WTH

 

One thing I notice, (it may be the photo) is the lower shock spring perch seems to different than my car. How far is it from the bottom of the spring to the lower shock mounting bolt? From some of the photos it looks like you have more exposed shock (red) below the spring than on my car. When you put the car down on the ground does the front end ride high?

 

Actually was on a list of questions in my mind from last week. lets see where this goes

 

Damn

 

So I assume you are in Glendale/ Phx? No need to answer in public if u don't want. When I go to AZ im about 6 miles from GTCP

 

OK I can't get a good picture because it's DARK, and my tires are on, but from looking at my driver's side with the wheel on, you're assembly is actually "not far off".

As my car sits suspension loaded, on the ground, there's about an inch between the ball joint bolt end and the upper top of the sway bar dog bone.
"I will say" that this clearance will be produced, if you lube the bushings well with oil, drop your car on the ground, throw the battery into the trunk, etc.

At that point, the a arms and spindle are moving upward on the pivots of the bushing bolts, yet the sway bar and dogbones are moving with the lower a arm, captive to a lesser amount. You will be preloading the sway bar as the whole suspension combined rises.

At the end of the day, in situ, my ball joint bolt in is about 1" forward of the dog bone top, forward of it, and well over 1" clearance from the bolt to the other components, rearward in the car. I don't even think my steering arm Would graze it "full lock" as Martins, but I will play with it, next time it's in the air!!!

And my spare tire is not installed which would make it a little better.
Or I am totally wrong and will look again in the daylight.

Looking at how you have built it, against the Parts Diagram I cannot find one foot put wrong!

 

God hates a coward! LOLOLOL!

Se my wild conjecture, set forth below....

 

Parts diagrams can be wrong on details, swapping the thick spacer with the normal ones would move the top a arm 1/8", (to the good of the clearance) but I don't think that's your issue. Put a floor jack under the lower ball joint and jack it up, see if that does as I guessed...???

 

It looks like mine is about 2 1/4 ,but it is difficult to measure on the ground. Is it possible that you have the wrong springs or rear springs on front? Just thinking out loud.

 

Bob, if the car is set on the ground and you ratchet strap or/ push down on the front of the car and get the chasiss down to the Work Shop Manual Specs for chassis , does everything clear? On a GT4 I believe the chassis height is 5.25". not sure on a 308 but im sure its close. Im suspisious of the A arm tightening now. The car is supposed to be on the ground and the A arms loose and then tighten the bolts,{and bounce the car up and down a few times to settle everything} and yes I know the engine etc is not installed. On my Gt I had perfectly sized blocks of wood to set the car onto Via the A arm ends so I can get to the Arm bolts without having the wheels on the car

 

man this thing is a PITA, poor Bobs Ferrari exp isn't going great,

 

its probably still low for lack of weight. But that's great news. but I think there are 2 plates per side of the upper B joint

 

What? the end of the sway bar hits the backing plate???????????

 

Changing ride height can make a difference but it has been said that it should clear at full droop. It just a little geometry. The distance along the red line at full lock can not change. Similarly, the distance along the yellow line can not change. As the ride height is lowered, the yellow line would over lay the pink line eventually. This effectively means the lower mounting point of the dog bone moves down relative to the tie rod nut. So the distance along the green line would increase and, perhaps, provide sufficient clearance. But that would not stop the interference at full droop.

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One other possibility other than alignment, and I think it has bee discussed before, but the steering arms are keyed into the spindle. At about the 10 o'clock position on the right side and the 2 o'clock position on the left. I'm sure you checked, but is it possible that the spindles have been mounted upside down, on the wrong sides? The key ways would then be near 8 and 4 o'clock and, perhaps, the steering arms would slope down instead of up? That is pure speculation about assembly error. OK Bubba?

 

Maybe that sway bar is splayed. Try a different sway bar since they are usually available from breakers.

 

aah nice diagrams and info. but as far as the spindles go the long side of the spindle is upward and is correct. and Bob stated the steering arms were never removed.

 

correct shocks front to rear? I think someone mentioned this. I think the rears are longer

 

check the shock numbers