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TR Fuse Panel Question

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by John Dillinger, Jan 28, 2004.

  1. John Dillinger

    John Dillinger Karting

    Nov 13, 2003
    68
    Clearwater Florida
    Hey guys,



    Seem to have 2 pins which are giving me a problem when it comes to having a good connection (arching and generating heat) which fry part of the white connector that holds them in place (i know this is common with TR's)

    My question : should i remove the two pins - strip the wires and install some new (stronger) female lugs - connecting them directly to the male pins in the fuse panel? Getting rid of the small (inadequate pins) that the factory installed ?

    Any help would be appreciated
     
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  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    20,468
    Texas
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    Steve Magnusson
    I think it certainly can't hurt -- and IMO you're in a situation where doing nothing really isn't an option. The male pins on the PWB might be somewhat embrittled (and/or the surrounding PWB traces/solder) from the heat so it might fail completely eventually anyway (where you're then stuck with either adding a patch from the wire with the female socket in the white connector directly to the appropriate relay output tab or buying a new fusepanel) -- good luck (I've bypassed three of the high current paths on my TR fusepanel so far -- the main AC +12V power and the 2 coolant radiator fan circuits)...
     
  4. John Dillinger

    John Dillinger Karting

    Nov 13, 2003
    68
    Clearwater Florida
    How did you bypass them ?
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    20,468
    Texas
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
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  7. Ingenere

    Ingenere F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Dec 11, 2001
    5,934
    On the Limit
    Full Name:
    Dino
    My 87 had fuse board issues...which caused me to replace the board 2X in 10 years.

    Now....every 4-6 months....I take the offending connectors apart and clean them and put some dielectric grease on them and I haven't had a problem in 4 years. The circuits that give me problem are the AC (not fun in AZ) and the fuel pump.

    Ciao...Dino
     
  8. rudy

    rudy Formula Junior

    Jan 13, 2004
    360
    Los Angeles California
    Full Name:
    Rudy Hassen
    Every 6 months is a lot of work. Seems too much. Put a small bag of dessicant near the fuse panel to dry it up. I thought AZ was dry already?
     
  9. John Dillinger

    John Dillinger Karting

    Nov 13, 2003
    68
    Clearwater Florida
    i tried the dielectric grease idea - clean them periodically, but still they still seem to generate some heat - live in Florida (you know how wet we are )
     
  10. Dhanj

    Dhanj Rookie

    Sep 28, 2010
    19
    Hertfordshire, UK
    Sorry to ask this of you Steve. I appreciate you posted this a long time ago but the URL you quoted above points to what looks like an archived part of the site. Whilst the text is readable, the attached images are not. I would be love to see the pics you took of bypassing the white connector using the wire patches. Do you still have them by chance?
     
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  12. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    20,468
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    Steve Magnusson
    #10 Steve Magnusson, Jul 25, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2011
    These jpegs show how I did the AC and water fan repair (I eventually did the fuel pump circuits too) -- essentially just adding a high-current capable connection from the relay output tab of interest to the corresponding downstream side wire of the white connector:
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
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    I do sort of like this "external" repair that someone posted -- doesn't do anything electrial directly for the white connector, but just soldering a wire onto the back of the PWB pin would act like a heat sink and help conduct heat away. Not something that can be applied as a "fix" after a serious problem has occurred (unless the problem was between the PCB trace and the male pin), but would guess that it would help prolong the time to failure by just lowering the temp -- now if I only had a virgin TR to experiment with ;)...
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  13. Dhanj

    Dhanj Rookie

    Sep 28, 2010
    19
    Hertfordshire, UK
    #11 Dhanj, Jul 26, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2011
    Thanks Steve, you are a star! I thought I understood what you had done from the text but the jpegs just helped confirm it.

    Whilst my AC connection on the white k connector looks seriously frazzled, my AC has started working again bizarrely (perhaps because I disconnected and reconnected the white k connector and managed to restore a bit of contact) but I need to check those radiator fans - that's a worry.

    Anyone know if there is a way of testing the radiator fans other than warming engine up until they are supposed to kick in?
     
  14. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
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    Just unplug each water fan relay and use a jumper wire to connect the female terminal 30 spade connector to the female terminal 87 spade connector in the relay socket as shown in this jpeg:
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    The corresponding water radiator fan should run -- if the white connector is OK ;) (even with the key "off").
     
  15. Dhanj

    Dhanj Rookie

    Sep 28, 2010
    19
    Hertfordshire, UK
    Brilliant! Thanks again Steve.
     

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