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TR Major - Engine Install & Hose Connections

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by vincenzo, May 25, 2008.

  1. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,874
    As the engine was removed, the water hoses pulled off the nozzles as the engine was dropped. Easy.

    As the engine goes back in - these hoses are proving to be difficult. I had the hoses attached to the engine and hoped to slip them over the firewall nozzles as the engine went back in.... Doesn't sem to work.

    My lift and engine cradle allow very limited access at the bottom front of the engine. I have been crawling on the top of the engine as the chassis is lowered down in small incremental steps...

    The 45 deg water pump hose is a royal pain.

    What is the secret here? How are these hoses installed?

    Should the engine go in first, and then install the hoses once I can get the cradle and lift out of the way????

    Any suggestions would be most welcome.

    Thanks in advance,
    Vince
     
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  3. silvergts1998

    silvergts1998 Formula 3

    Apr 10, 2005
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    I would submit pics of what you are talking about to help understand what you are describing.
     
  4. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,874
    let me rephrase:

    can the water pump hose be replaced with the TR engine in the car?

    Thanks, Vince
     
  5. silvergts1998

    silvergts1998 Formula 3

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    #4 silvergts1998, May 26, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    It can be, but it's a very tight fit.If it's hose (B) then I would put the hose on the water pump neck and tighten it down with the hose clamps. When you put the engine back you can then wiggle the hose end on the pipe. A little time consuming but make sure the clamp on the neck of the water pump is tightened down first, otherwise it can slip off.
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  6. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

    Oct 30, 2002
    3,317
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    Jeff
    I install the hoses on the motor like you did, and I smear some lubricant around the nipples of the receiving components at the fire wall. Then - for the last few inches before the motor is in, I get the engine up to the right height so that it's horizontal from the firewall connections. At this point there is no more vertical movement possible, just horizontal movement. I carefully slide the motor forward until the hoses are just making contact with their connections - check alignment - slide motor about 1/4 to 1/2 inch more forward check connections - at this point you may have to wrestle the connections a bit but once started your good to go - and finish up by moving the motor forward the rest of the way.

    These hoses are all a pain in the butt no matter what - good luck and keep us posted.
     
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  8. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,874
    Thanks for the pic - I was too exhausted last night...

    the 512 is considerably different from the TR in the front, but the pic is good. I reference both hoses you mark as 'a' & 'b'. The 'b' water pump hose is the worst.

    today looks like it is going to be a day of contorted wrestling. After some coffee, I'll get back at it.

    Thanks for the tips.....

    Best rgds,
    Vince
     
  9. silvergts1998

    silvergts1998 Formula 3

    Apr 10, 2005
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    I would agree with car guy...use wd-40 or a very light oil on the hose. Don't use heavy oil since it won't go away like a light oil but that can really help make a hard situation easy.
     
  10. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,874
    #8 vincenzo, May 26, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I couldn't muster the energy today - too many sore muscles (literally). This is a lot like work!

    carguy - your description of moving the engine up and then forward won't work in my (old) scenario. My chassis is being lifted straight down over a level engine. In this level scenario, the shock tower threads are in contact with the subframe at about the same time the hoses contact.

    your scenario (if I recall correctly) had the back of your car lifted down over the engine. This in effect, 'angled' your engine up and into the the car nose first. Since the water pump hose is angled upwards at a 45 deg angle, it essentially allowed the hose to more easily 'slip' into place. Or at least the angle helped.

    next week, I plan to tilt the engine on the front end of the cradle using the jack screws and at the same time raise the rear of the car a couple of inches. This should give me +/- 10, perhaps 15 degrees of differential engine to chassis tilt & allow the hose to slip into place. Once the hoses have landed, I can jack the engine back to a level position and mate up the rear of the subframe.

    The last pic shows the water pump hose and the firewall nozzle up above.

    I'll give it another go next week.

    Thanks for the input!

    Rgds,
    Vince
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  11. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,874
    #9 vincenzo, May 26, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
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  13. silvergts1998

    silvergts1998 Formula 3

    Apr 10, 2005
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    Very clean!

    I would still say put the engine in and from the top side wiggle the hose on. You may have to take the rear deck off to get access. Or put it on the pipe first then the neck of the water pump if you can get under it and put your hands up in front of the timing cover.
     
  14. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

    Dec 31, 2002
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    Adam,

    On the testarossa, the engine is on a subframe that comes down with the engine when it's removed. On the 512TR they changed the engine removal setup and eliminated the subframe. This was done to eliminate chassis flexing common to the testarossa.


    Shamile

    Freeze...Miami Vice !
     
  15. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

    Dec 31, 2002
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    Vince,

    Very nice work.....very clean chassis and firewall !


    Shamile

    Freeze...Miami Vice!
     
  16. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,874
    My shredded & wd40 stained fingers appreciate the compliment - Thanks!

    Rgds,
    Vince
     

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